Cougar Mountain Grand Traverse
Hike Length: 9 Miles
Elevation Gain: 1300 feet
Hike Difficulty: Moderate
Map: Green Trails-Cougar Mountain #203S, or IATC Cougar Mountain map
hike overview map
This hike is one of my favorite car-free getaways in the Seattle area. The route takes you along the full length of Coal Creek Canyon, all the way to its headwaters at Klondike Marsh in King County’s vast Cougar Mountain Regional Park. Along the way, you will see lush vegetation, creeks and waterfalls, and numerous relics of the extensive coal mining operations that occured here nearly a century ago. After passing over the summit of Cougar Mountain, the route descends the steep east flanks of the mountain to Issaquah, where bus connections are good.
The route described here is the shortest one, but given more time and energy a hiker could make many side trips in the dense network of trails in the Cougar Mountain wilderness. But you will need a good map to sort out the Cougar Mountain maze. Having an up-to-date version of the Green Trails or IATC map is a requirement to do this hike successfully.
Getting there:
In downtown Seattle, catch the ST 550 bus and ride it to the South Bellevue Park&Ride. Get off here and transfer to the southbound M 240 bus, which runs every 30 minutes [GPS N 47 deg 35 min 12 sec, W 122 deg 11 min 28 sec].
The M 240 bus travels south out of Bellevue, passes by Factoria Mall, then turns west on Coal Creek Parkway. Request a stop when the bus reaches the intersection of Coal Creek and 119th ave SE, which is close to a I-405 freeway overpass. The bus turns left onto 119th and soon reaches the bus stop [GPS N 47 deg 34 min 01 sec, W 122 deg 10 min 45 sec].
Weekend bus service is available.
The hike:
The start of the Coal Creek Trail is conveniently located on the opposite side of 119th Ave. Look for a gate in the metal fence bordering the road; the gate is marked by a wooden sign. Open the gate and walk down stairs to the floor of the ravine. The start of the Coal Creek Trail can be found a few feet to the right of the stream. The elevation here is 100 feet.
The trail immediately enters a forest with a lush understory of ferns. Despite the proximity of houses and parkway, the area feels pleasantly remote from civiliation. After a short climb up a ridge, the trail reaches a junction with a spur to a subdivision; stay left. The trail generally runs along the slope south of the valley, never approaching Coal Creek very closely. But the sound of its musical waters can often be heard. About 1.5 miles from the trailhead, the path abruptly ends at the shoulder of Coal Creek Parkway. Using extreme caution, cross this busy and fast-moving 4- lane highway, then locate the continuation of the Coal Creek trail in the parking lot on the far side [1.3 miles, 200’].
The next stretch of trail is an absolute delight as it wends its way up the lushly vegetated canyon. The sparkling waters of Coal Creek are close by, with gravel beaches providing perfect stopping points for a rest . The canyon grows deeper and more remote with every step, and noises of civilization are quickly left behind. A mile from Coal Creek Parkway, the trail crosses the creek, climbs a bit up the south wall of the canyon, then reaches a junction with the Primrose Trail[ 2.3 miles, 300’] The trail continues climbing past this junction before leveling off on an old railroad grade, where another junction with the Primrose trail is encountered[ 2.8 miles, 480’]. The Primrose trail can be used as a longer alternate route to this point.
The next mile of trail follows the nearly level railroad grade, an exceptionally pleasant stretch of walking. Signs point out relics left over from the Newcastle coal mining days. Eventually the trail reaches the pretty North Fork Waterfall, where nearby benches invite a rest break.
Beyond the falls, the trail climbs out of the creek’s valley, passes the spooky mouth of an abandoned coal mine, then ends at the side of Lakemont Boulevard. Cross the road and enter the signed Red Town Trailhead parking lot [4.0 miles, 650’], a major entry point for the Cougar Mountain Regional Park. A reader board at the far end of the lot provides information and free maps. If you don’t have a map, now is the time to get one; the network of trails on Cougar Mountain is amazingly complex and it’s easy to get lost.
Continue the hike on the Red Town Trail ( actually a road), which begins at the reader board. Turn left onto Cave Hole Trail (another road ) 0.2 miles from the trailhead. The road/trail climbs steeply through second growth forest: maple, alder and a scattering of fir and cedar. After a half mile, a junction with the Coal Creek Falls trail is reached [4.7 miles, 1040’]; the falls is a worthwhile side trip especially in winter when runoff is high. Past this junction, the Cave Hole trail soon levels out on the gently rolling summit plateau of Cougar Mountain. The plateau is a quiet land of second-growth forest, small creeks, and peaceful wetlands. Views in this area are few, except at the Clay Pit, a worthwhile detour offering a vista east toward the Cascade Mountains if you are getting claustrophobic in all of the greenery.
On the plateau, trail junctions occur at a rapid-fire pace; you may want to carry your map in hand for fast access. Or just get lost if you have lots of time. Go right on the Clay Pit Bypass Trail at a junction [5.3 miles, 1170’]. Soon you cross Coal Creek one last time, here the creek is just a small trickle as you are near its headwaters in Klondike Swamp. Go left on Fred’s Railroad Trail and cross over the Clay Pit Road to Klondike Swamp trail. At the next junction [5.7 miles,1230’], go right onto Cougar Pass Trail, which takes you over a gentle summit separating the Coal Creek headwaters and the Issaquah-bound Tibbets Creek. Pass a junction with the Anti-Aircraft ridge trail, then go left (downhill) on the Tibbets Marsh Trail at the next junction. The path descends to a crossing of the outlet stream from Tibbets Marsh, then shortly thereafter reaches a junction with the West Tibbetts Creek Trail [6.3 miles,1200’].
Go right (east) and follow the Tibbetts Creek trail as it makes a gradual descent near the ravine of Tibbetts Creek. After a half mile, the trail reaches a junction with the Bear Ridge Trail [6.8 miles, 1000’]. Here you must make a decision: go right or left? Going right (south) takes you down the Bear Ridge trail, which stays within a protected greenbelt and will be free from future disruption from development. This well-made trail provides a pleasant hiking experience as it descends to the valley floor, passing many creeklets and the ”Fantastic Erratic (a huge fern-covered boulder) on the way down. The only problem is that the trail ends at Highway 900 far from the Issaquah Park and Ride [8.1 miles, 220’]; you are faced with a mile-long slog along the shoulder of the busy highway to get to the bus stop.
Your other choice is to go left (north), which soon brings you to a junction with the Shangri La trail [7.0 miles, 960’]. Go right (E) and follow the Shangri La trail downhill, which descends a half mile through thick forest to the edge of the Talus development [7.6 miles, 580’]. Where the Shangri La trail reaches its lowest point, leave the forest and enter the densely packed houses of Talus. Walk the maze of streets, picking ones that head north and/or downhill. At the NE corner of Talus, on Big Tree Drive, look for a post-blocked road, which is the end of the James Bush road marked on the Green Trails map (elevation 280 feet) Follow this road, which drops swiftly down to Highway 900 [8.4 miles, 100’] at a point close to Tibbetts Park and the Issaquah Park and Ride.
As of this writing, Talus is still under construction. Eventually, the official trail network through Talus will be built, which should provide a more hiker-friendly connection between the Shangri-La trail and Highway 900.
Getting back:
Whichever route you choose to descend from Cougar Mountain, you must walk north along HIghway 900 north until you reach the Issaquah Park&Ride between Newport Way and Maple Street. Buses stop at the shelter on the west side of the parking lot.
To get to downtown Seattle, take the ST 554 bus, which leaves half-hourly.
Rev 02.17.07