Thompson Lake Trail

By James LaJocies


Thompson Lake at SunriseGood weather in the Northwest seems to come around only two months a year. Today, would seem to be the beginning of those precious two months in which we all look forward too, summertime. For me there is only one thing to do, pack up my pack and get out of Dodge. Summertime in the city is not the place for me to get burnt and gritty. I have been itching to hit the trail and start a multi-lake tour nestled inside the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. There is only one way to scratch this itch and I will do it by stepping onto the Thompson Lake Trail.

I start off my adventure by planning a multi day trek that will weave myself through a deep shaded forest marinading past a half dozen lakes as the trail stitches itself through a deep cool forest, flower covered meadows, jaw dropping vistas and serine lakes with deep sapphire blue and emerald green waters. Picture yourself in the middle of all of this under a bright blue sky and you have all the makings of an adventure inside Mother Natures Wonderland. Sounds just like the ointment I need to take care of that itch.

Whenever I step into the Cascade Wilderness I am faced with the realization that ‘no matter what, the trail always leads up’. Also, if your going to get anywhere in the Cascades, your going to have to climb up and up and up. It is no different on the Thompson Lake Trail. As I keep pushing myself forward I keep reminding myself of the little red train that keeps telling himself, “Yes, I can. Yes, I can.” Maybe the trails have become steeper since I have grown older. Sometimes I wonder why I call this ‘fun’, when it feels more like work. But unfortunately, to enjoy this multi lake tour, it will require considerable work.

The trail starts off relatively easy and is well maintained, but that all changes soon. There are many sections of the trail carpeted with crushed forest bark, tree needles and cones. A nice feeling on your feet as you pound away. But other sections of the trail are seriously tree rooted, rocky and muddy. Some of which at the higher elevations are overgrown, but not enough to hinder navigation. Lakes at the lower levels have considerable amount to side trails that others have cut through to gain lake access which at times can take your focus away from the main trail.

The first lake along the tour is Talapus. After crossing Talapus Creek you will soon come into view of Talapus Lake with easy lake access and many campsites. This is a good place for a family picnic with picture perfect vistas.  But it is also very popular and it is likely to fill quickly on the weekends. So plan your trip for a weekday or simply tolerate the crowds that may infest the area as the bugs do during the early summer. Or simply drop down one of the side trails, shoot up a few pictures, do an about face and trudge onward.

If you do trudge onward, you will again continue upward over varying trail conditions until you reach the Olallie Lake trail cutoff. At this point you can plow forward for about another three quarters of a mile and then drop down to the shoreline and search for your next campsite or anyplace to plop yourself down and have lunch. Don’t forget the camera, because this is a jewel of a lake, and again it is very popular. At this point you have already climb to four thousand feet, and you are probably feeling it. Besides the natural summertime attraction that the two lakes offer, they also boast of a great winter snowshoe trip, if you’re a winter person.

After passing Olallie Lake and reaching the trail cut off, follow the main trail to the Pratt Lake cut off. As you climb up and above Olallie Lake you will soon come across your first clear day grand vista, Olallie Lake nestled beneath the mountains surrounded by a deep lush green forest and snow capped Mount Rainier in the back ground. If you didn’t bring a camera, there would be no way to described the grander of this vista before your eyes. Simply stating, “It’s beautiful.”, would be grossly inadequate for this wilderness super model.

But, you can’t stand on the trail looking at it all day long, sooner or later, you will have to turn and push onward. As you do so the next trail intersection is Pratt Lake. From this point you can descend for about one and half miles to reach this popular lake, but it wasn’t part of my game plan for this tour. So I proceeded forward and continued to climb through the south face of Pratt Mountain till I finally reach the Island lake cutoff. This was the first leg of my adventure.

I stepped onto the Island Lake trail and proceeded for the next half mile to the lakeshore. Along the way you will pass a couple of lily ponds bearing bright flowering lily pads. As you continue along, bare in mind that main trail passes to the left of the lily ponds, even though the map shows it to be to the right. After climbing up and over a knoll, you will began to get your first views of Island Lake. From here it is a short descend to the lakeshore. After arriving, I threw off my pack and said, “Home sweet home for the night.”

Island Lake is nestled beneath Bandera Mountain surrounded by granite roIsland Lake as Viewed from Campsiteck slides and lush green forest of Douglas Fir, Cedar and Alder. She glamours with clear calm waters reflecting the brilliant blue sky and in the more shady areas, a deep emerald green. I wasted no time grabbing my camera to capture that ‘Kodak Moment’. As I settled in and established a campsite, I ventured out to the lakeshore and discovered a small jetty with a log and a couple large rocks to sit on. As I stared out onto the lake, there it happened. “Plop - Plop.”, the fish were jumping. And so did I, where I scrambled back to my pack for my fishing pole and box of roster tails. The fish were not only jumping, they were hungry. So after toying with the fish for a while, I decided to rest my weary bones and crawled up on top of a fallen log about four foot in diameter; laid back and let the warming sun bask my chest and shoulders. Soon I napped off into a blissful sleep. Oh, what a feeling.

The rest of the day proceeded much in the same manor. Just enjoying the marvels of this wonderland. Soon the sun dropped behind the mountains as I crawled into my woolly bag, and watched the daylight dim itself into twilight followed by a starry, starry night. You can’t get this at any Holiday Inn Express.


A sound restful sleep through the night, deep in the forest, was soon awakened by natures alarm clock, the chirping calls of our feathered friends. Stretching and yawning, I soon pulled myself out of my cocoon to a nippy morning of forty five degrees. I scrambled to brew up a cup of hot tea in which I enjoyed while sitting on a granite slab on the lakeshore, overlooking a peaceful, very calm lake with water vapor rising from the surface. The tea warmed me up as I watched the fish suck insects from the water surface and at times, jumped in surprise to their prey.

After the bones had warmed up and energy started to flow through my vital systems, I broke camp, packed up the pack and stepped back onto the trail again. After leaving Island Lake, I caught up with the main train and continued northward. Along the way and shortly after Island Lake, I passed by and visited the Rainbow Lakes. A pair of small lakes along the trail nestled in a flower laden meadow. Charming indeed, but I had to continue along. After leaving the Rainbows, trail conditions change significantly as you hoof over a trail that descends steeply, covered with tree roots and granite rocks and boulders.

Soon I reached the Mason Lakes trail cutoff, where I was tempted to pay a visit. But, I will save it for the return trip. So I continued to plunge forward and began a long and strenuous ascend up the south face of Mount Defiance. A proper name for this section of the trail. Climbing Mount Defiance is a thigh master, cardiac workout, to say the least. After reaching the five thousand foot elevation, the trail finally levels out as cuts through a granite rock slide. The first thing you think is, “Thank God.” The next thing you see is Mount Rainier standing above the jagged Cascade mountain range before it. Your jaw drops in amazement and you remind yourself, “Yes, it was all worth it.” I found a flat boulder, tossed off my pack, sat and enjoyed an afternoon snack, while enjoying the majestic vista that can not be seen on any Discovery Channel. Absolutely, no doubt.

Rested and ready to continue forward, I geared up and placed one foot in front of the other towards my Thompson Lake destination. After clearing the granite rock slide, the trail transformed itself with a bed of wildflowers gracefully laid out on each side of the traverse. Many bright and vibrant colors stood up to the sun as if in worship, all waiting for pollination from friendly visitors. It was pretty tough leaving Mount Defiance with such inspiring vistas, close and afar. But continue I must as the trail descends and continues to do so until you reach the the Thompson Lake shore. Trail conditions were much of the same, rocky, tree rooted, muddy and overgrown much of the way. But, not enough to be a burden.


Once you see your first vista of Spider Lake, you have reached about the halfway mark between Mount Defiance and Thompson Lake. Spider Lake is a oval punch bowl lake nestled nearly two thousand feet below your elevation, and is garnished on all sides with a deep lush green forest blanket. The Lake offers up many other views as you continue along with your descend towards Thompson.

After reaching the lake surface and being glad of it, I explored around a bit and found that the good campsites are on the south side of the lake. In a nice area slightly above and overlooking the lake, I immediately set up digs for the night.

Thompson Lake, the larger of the lakes in my travels, is one of Mother Natures jewels imbedded in a hallow of Douglas Fir and Cedar. Sitting above her bright blue reflective surface are three small islands with fir and cedar stands. Peaceful, scenic and full of fish. I certainly could not let Her keep them all, so I attempted to reel some in. With emphasis on attempted. As always, the daylight dimmed itself into twilight with a slight cooling breeze. As nightfall descended quickly, so did my eyelids as I drifted into dreamland while listening to the forest sounds all around me.

It’s was a new dawn and daylight came like a thief, stealing from me the dream like bliss of sleep and awakening me with the realization that another ascent onto Mount Defiance awaits me. With no other avenues of escape, I pulled myself out of my cocoon and struggled into activity. It was going to be a long climb and I was going to need strength and energy. So breakfast was the first order of the day. Afterwards, I broke camp, packed up my pack and began my ascent on Mount Defiance. In which I was the more defiant.

I slowly kept pushing upward with each step. Climbing over each rut, stair stepping each large rock and side stepping each mud bog, as I followed a trail that stitched its way through the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. I wove my way through an overgrown footpath inching higher and higher. Slowly Spider Lake came back into view and slowly she descended from view. With each step I’m being reminded that you can’t get anywhere in the Cascades with out climbing up. I would push myself onward, then rest. Then push onward again. Heart rate up, aerobic workout for sure. Foot by foot and then suddenly, I could see the clearing at the apex of the trail. So much work to reach the final elevation, but I know what rewards await me.

At last the trail levels out as I clear the tree line and enter an area blanket covered with wildflowers along the Southwest face of Mount Defiance. I let out a sigh, a sigh of relief and jubilation and continued forward looking for that perfect spot for my afternoon snack. Which could have been anywhere on this mountain, but I found one to my liking and claimed it my own, my just reward. Front roll and center of Mother Natures Wonderland. Again Mount Rainier and the Cascades under a bright sunlit blue sky. You can’t get this at Imax and you certainly will not find it on a Princess Cruise.

From this point and for the most part, it is all down hill from here, per say. At least to my destination, Mason Lake. So after snapping up a few more pictures of this wondrous glory, I tossed my pack on and continued my traverse along Mount Defiance. Soon I crossed the granite rock slide and started my descent into the wilderness again with trail conditions being much of the same as before. I stepped carefully to avoid injury from the trail covered tree roots and rocks. As time passed by, Lake Kulla Kulla finally came into view. I knew that Lake Mason would be coming up shortly.

Deeper into the forest I kept trudging as my trail cut off approached. I studied the markings and turned South onto the Lake Mason trail and descended for about an half mile before reaching the lake shore. Another jewel of a lake sleeping quietly in the middle of the wilderness. But the Lake is not the only sight to gaze on. There are numerous side trails to venture out and explore. One will lead you to Ida Creek or to the peak of Bandera Mountain, just in case you haven’t climbed enough already. But if you are interested in just a short jaunt, soon after the Mason Lake trail cut off is a side trail to Little Mason Lake, another popular spot and a nice one to boot. But for me, my plans were to set up house on the shores of Mason Lake. So I explored about and found just the spot. After that, it was home sweet home. Or at least as much of it as I was willing to carry on my back.

Lakes are so nice. So peaceful, so calm, so serene. Surrounded in a picturesque landscape that none of the great masters could possibly duplicate. When you are soaking in all of these great wonders, everything in the ‘real world’ melts away. No mail, no phones, no television, no news, no radio, no bills, no cares. They are all cleansed away from your physic. The inputs of the maddening world of your daily life are no more. All that remains are your keen senses to the environment and the chance to experience a new paradigm. Yes, I like lakes.

After setting up camp and settling in, I cast out a line to see if any of the rainbows would be interested. And as luck would have it for them, they weren’t. After dinner, I explored the lake some more and then settled into the ‘kick back’ and do nothing routine. Soon enough the summertime night fell upon me as I snuggled into my tent and cast myself into sleep.

When I am out in the wilderness, sleep always seems to be the great reward after the day finishes up. That is until it is time to wake up. It is then I realize just how much of a reward I was enjoying. What was that dream I just left? I want to go back there. But, the hard truth of reality sets in and I have to pry myself out of my ‘perfect rest’ and start to put a dent into the day. But today is different. Today is the final push to the trailhead and then the return trip to the real world. So after completing my morning routine, breaking camp and with my pack on my back, it is again one step in front of the other, pushing me forward.

From this point, most of the trail will be a long descent with one steep section of a hard climb. For the most part, it will be familiar scenes along a trail traversed just days before. Soon I am heading east on the main trail climbing up above Rainbow Lake and then descending to their shoreline through open meadows of wildflowers. After passing Rainbow, I climb some more and then cross the Island Lake trail cut off. Still pushing onward, Pratt Lake trail passes by and soon I get to view again Olallie Lake with Mount Rainier in the background, a good spot for an afternoon snack.

I continued along until I reaVista Area Above Olallie Lake - View of Mount Rainerched the Olallie Lake trail cut off and then turning south, I descend to Talapus Lake. Views of this lake come up soon and they are stark reminders that the trailhead is just a short distance away. Relativity speaking, a short distance in the wilderness is rarely a short distance. Especially if you know that your destination will soon arrive. The relative short distance per say, stretches like Einstein’s yard stick, and with each step it seems to be just a little tougher to reach the end, relatively speaking. But soon enough I arrive at the trailhead and the beginning of the return trip to so called ‘real world’.

Every time I step into the wilderness, I am awestruck with the experience, and great desires to return or to even stay. It is hard to express what I see and experience in a real sense while ambling through a woven network of pathways deep into such a wonderland. You have to step out and experience it for yourself. Touring the many lakes along the Thompson Lake Trail can conjure up a variety of adventures for yourself or for the whole family. Such escapades will burn into the memory banks of your mind and will remain for years to come. But first, you have to get off the couch!           
   


To start your adventure just link yourself via the links listed below.

Thompson Lake Trail - Directions

Thompson Lake Trail - Maps

Thompson Lake Trail - Photography