Coffee requires a very specific combination of sun, soil, and water.
It is successfully grown in only a limited number of locations round the
world.
Kona is the very special coffee grown on the dark volcanic lava
rock slopes of Kona, with enviable consistent quality. Kona coffee is a
deliciously rich, medium-bodied and slightly acidic coffee with a heady
aroma and complex, winey, spicy taste.
The Kona name only applies to beans grown between the 800 feet and 2000
feet elevations on the western slopes of Hulalai and Mauna Loa - a narrow
strip extending from Holualoa to Honaunau.
The magical diurnal cycle of bright sunny mornings, humid rainy afternoons,
and mild nights create perfect growing conditions for exotic plants to
flourish.
The labor intensive processes of planting, tending, and harvesting the
cherry is more suited to small family concerns than
to large scale operations.
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The first settlers in Hawaii arrived in approximately 300-400
AD, probably from the Marquesas Islands. They brought with them taro, ti,
sugarcane, ginger, gourd, yams, bamboo, turmeric, arrowroot, and the breadfruit
tree. They also brought small pigs, dogs, jungle fowl, and probably rats
as stowaways. Many of these new species overpowered the native plants and
animals, especially birds. They established a rigid and controlled society,
rich in oral and music traditions, although lacking in written language.
Hereditary chiefs held blocks of land, and their people paid taxes to their
chief (crops or catch) and served for them as soldiers. Strict laws defined
what was forbidden (kapu) and governed the conduct
of the various levels of society. There were many wars between the chiefs.
Religion consisted of the worship of many gods and goddesses, representing
war, life, death, harvest, etc.
The Europeans arrived by accident while searching for a new spice
route to the Orient. James Cook, an English Sea Captain,
reached Kauai in January 1778, and returned in early 1779 to anchor in
Kealakekua Bay, Kona, to make repairs to his ship. Hawaii
became an important stopping place on one of the world's major trading
routes. The Hawaiian chiefs traded sandalwood for foreign weapons and goods,
including cattle, goats, and pigs which rapidly over-ran the island destroying
the ground cover.
The Missionary Era started around 1820 and their religious beliefs
quickly overcame the old system of kapu. Many of the churches
they established still exist today.
Coffee Plantations - Coffee was first brought
to Kona by Samuel Reverend Ruggles from cuttings from Brazil, although
it was not until much later in that century that it became a consistent
and worthwhile crop. It was grown on large plantations, but the crash in
the world coffee market in 1899 caused plantation owners to have to lease
out their land to their workers. Most of these workers were originally
from Japan, and they worked their leased land parcels of between 5 and
12 acres as family concerns, producing large, quality coffee crops.
Family Farms The tradition of running family farms
has continued throughout Kona. The Japanese-origin families have been joined
by Filipinos, mainland Americans, and Europeans - all of who strive to
keep their farms productive, their crops as perfect as can be, and their
family lifestyle serene. This family orientation has produced a close sense
of community, with care and compassion to spare, and a friendly welcome
for all who come to visit.
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Family Farms of between 5 and 20 acres remain the primary producers
of Kona's coffee and fruit crops. Many farms welcome visitors and will
give a free tour of their operations. Dragon's
Lair Farm will be happy to hear from you!
Pu'uhonua O Honaunau was a "Place of Refuge" to provide
political and criminal asylum. After reaching it and undergoing a ritual
cleansing of their crime, they would be free to leave. The sacred precinct
is preserved as a National Historical Park. The beautiful site on a peninsula
of black lava has the preserved and restored remains of a royal palance
and three heiaus, houses, fish pond, beach, and canoe landing. It is on
Honaunau Bay immediately below the groves of coffee, avacados, macadamias,
papayas and guavas which thickly carpet these western slopes.
Captain Cook's Monument lies on the north side of Kealakekua Bay
and marks the spot approximately where he died. The monument can be reached
by sea, and also by a steep trail from the top of Napo'opo'o road. The
"Rough Guide - Big Island of Hawai'i" by Greg Ward, published
by Penguin Books, gives an excellent description of this strenuous hike.
The adventurous will be rewarded by the beauty of the place, and by the
excellent snorkeling.
Kealakekua Bay is a designated underwater state park to protect
its myriad multi-hued fish. Shoals of intensely colorful fish can always
be found, and the bay is a favorite haunt for spinner porpoises who delight
visitors with their aquabatics. Choice snorkeling, scuba diving, and kayaking
are always available.
The Painted Church of St. Benedict at Honaunau is the oldest Catholic
church on the island, constructed in 1875. The small wooden church has
brilliantly hued murals depicting biblical scenes on the interior walls,
painted by Father John Velge between 1899 and 1904.
The Bishop Museum is currently running an exhibit on the history
of coffee farming in Hawai'i. You can link from here
to their HomePage for up to date details.
The Kona Historical Society Museum in Kealakekua is set in a century-old
former general store building. It has a collection of photographs and family
heirlooms describing Kona's history from the point of view of its immigrant
farmers. The museum is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 3pm.
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