Early 15th Century Style Right Pauldron

Early 15th century Right Pauldron (Shoulders):

        This is based on the right pauldron on the statue of 'Orlando' in Dubrovnik by Bonino of Milan from 1413. A picture of the statue can be seen in The Venetian Empire, 1200-1670 (Men-at-Arms Series, Volume 210) by David Nicolle, Christopher Rothero (Illustrator); 48 pages; Paperback (July 1989) Stackpole Books; ISBN: 0850458994 . Note that I omitted what I believe to have been decorative brass bands at the top edge of the three lames.
        You can also see a similar pauldron on an effigy on the Tomb of Giovanni Cose of Naples from 1418 in the Louvre. A picture of this appears in "The Sanctuary of the Madonna delle Grazie with notes on the evolution of Italian armour during the 15th century." by James G. Mann printed in "Archaeologia" Journal of The Society of Antiquaries of London 1930 Vol. 80   pages 117-142. The picture is Figure 2 on Plate XXIII.
       The pauldron is between a size medium and large, it is made from 0.050 inch 1050 spring/carbon Steel which was quenched in brine (salt water) at around 1500F/ 815C and tempered at 600F / 315C for 30 minutes. Note that I heat the plates to 1575F/860C before I quench them. The reason 1500F/815C is listed as the quench temperature is that the plates will cool off some in the few seconds it takes to open the kiln, grab the plate with tongs, and drop it into the quench tank.
        From what I've seen after 0.050 inch 1050 spring/carbon steel has been properly hardened and tempered to 600F/315C it seems resists denting as if it were 0.100 inch Mild Steel (between 13 gage [0.090 inches] and 12 gage [0.105 inches] )

Finished March 2000

Patterns

I would build these spaulders in the following order:

1)   Cut out the plates
2)   Punch the holes that are marked on the patterns.
3)   Finish the plate edges and corners.
4)   Roll the top edge on the shoulder plate.
5)   Dish the shoulder plate
6)   Shape the first lames to fit the shoulder plate and the other lames to fit in the one before it.

Heat Treating (steps 7 - 10) are Optional:

7)   The outside surface of the plates should be fairly smooth before doing any heat treating. Put a medium (around a 220 grit) finish on the outside of any plate
that has any marring on it.
8)   Heat each plate to 1575F/860C in a kiln and quench them in brine (salt water). You need to quench the plates within a few seconds of opening the kiln.
9)   If you want a polished finish or a blackened (fire scale) finish then skip this step. If you want to heat blue the plates then put a medium (around a 220 grit)
finish on the outside of the plates. This assumes that you would like to leave the fire scale on the inside as a rust barrier otherwise you may want to acid clean the plates.
10) Heat each plate to 600F/315C in a kiln for 30 minutes to temper the plates so they will be somewhat flexible and not crack when struck. It is very important
that the temperature stays within 10 degrees or so of what you set it to. If you don't know for sure that the temperature control works correctly on your kiln then
you will want to check it with an oven thermometer that can measure to 650F/350C (don't over heat the thermometer).

11) If you want a polished finish on the plates you should do that now.
12) Rivet the plates together starting with the shoulder plate and the first lame working your way to the bottom lame. I use 1/2 inch diameter washers on all the rivets.
13) Add the straps and the holes at the top for tying the spaulders on. Grommets on the holes used to tie them on will help keep the ties from breaking.

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