Day Two
Morning sail to Marathi— a truly tiny little island with a real sandy beach, beautiful water to swim and snorkel in; a totally tranquil and peaceful spot. There's a grand total of just two families living here - and guess what - yes, they both own tavernas ! If you could paint a picture of the perfect, idyllic island retreat, Marathi would be it. Our adopted family here are so wonderful and hospitable too - and the food is incredible!! This tiny spot has hit top of the Favourite Spot list with our groups for several years now - so much so that it's been hard to persuade people that, really, we should leave, there are other islands to visit ! Sail time, approx 3hrs.
Day Three
Sail to Patmos— a short hop of around 2hrs. This is the famous monastery island - in fact is supposedly the second most important religious centre for Greek Orthodoxy in the world! This is where St John (as of Apostle fame) was inspired by visions to write the Book of Revelations. The the 10th century monastery, built by Crusader Knights reigns over the island, still an active training centre for novice monks. The village that lies at the foot of the monastery is everyone's romantic image of a Greek village; incredibly narrow, winding alleyways, cats sunning themselves on whitewashed streets, old ladies in black collecting fresh bread from the bakery in the morning. Despite all the visitors they now get, these villagers have remained wonderfully friendly; particularly if you go up there in the early morning hours; the old ladies will look at you in faint amazement that a foreigner should find their way up there at such an hour; if you can remember enough of our Greek lessons to say "kalimera!" (good morning), they'll give you a huge smile and a "kalimera-sas" back (good morning to you too) !
Day Four
Mostly in Patmos...with an option to sail off to Arki late afternoon, if the group so decides. Patmos is usually a "two day island" on our all-Greece trips—there's so much to do and see here, we could spend a week and still not be bored! It's great place to hire little 50cc scooters and explore; or mountain bikes for the more energetic - or join us for a hike to a really cool, sandy "clothing-optional" beach which even has surf at times! For those who love the energetic Greek nightlife, the more modern port of Skala offers plenty of choices; tavernas, bars and chance to dance the night away for those so inclined !
Another tiny, traditional island, Arki boasts a permanent population of just 27 people ! (The population expands considerably if you count the goats, however). There is just one little port, a few houses scattered down the hillside - and most of all, Manoli's place ! Mr Cool Dude Manoli runs a wonderful little oasis of a taverna; cushions scattered around the shady patio, speakers hidden away in the trees, from which a constant, beautiful stream of music emanates. Manoli has the most incredible music collection you could ever imagine on such an isolated little island, and is quite the musical expert too. Get him in the right mood, and he's also a hot dancer - as are all his nieces and nephews !
Day Five
Morning sail for Pandeli, a beautiful little bay on the east side of Leros. Usually a lovely downwind sail, around 3-4hrs.
Pandeli Bay is one of the prettiest anchorages to sail into on this planet. The traditional blue-and-white houses scattered down the hillside; the horseshoe-shaped bay, a couple of little beach tavernas just 2 mins swim from the boat. Try sitting and watching the moon rise from one of these tavernas, boat in the foreground, the lapping of waves almost at your feet - it's a total "Shirley Valentine" scene! For those with more energy to burn off later, there is the infamous Savana Bar; a very idiosyncratic little local hangout, where we often end up dancing the night away! Then as a recovery process in the morning, they serve the best fruit smoothies and homemade banana bread...
Leros is also another island where it's wonderful fun to rent those little scooters and go explore the dozens of bays & backroads, other little villages - and most of all, the 11th century fortress which towers over the bay (both sunrise and sunset are totally spectacular from up here).
Day Six
Leave Pandeli around midday, giving us the morning to make the most of our time on Leros. Then we'll sail for Vathi on the island of Kalymnos —another 3 hr sail—and spend the late afternoon/evening here.
Vathi is a dramatic little spot; a well-hidden and very narrow fjord-like entrance, opening up into a tiny fishing village at the head of the bay. It boasts one main street and a collection of houses scattered into the valley; an unexpected patch of lush vegetation on an otherwise very dry and arid-looking island. Vathi is the only place on the entire island that is lucky enough to have it's own spring water supply, and they use it carefully to cultivate citrus fruits, figs, grapes and anything else that can be persuaded to grow!
It's also the home of Poppy's—, where momma makes the best homemade dolmades (stuffed grapeleaves) you'll ever taste in your life, and the swordfish steaks are out of this world!!
Day Seven
OK, so here is the "adventure" part of the trip—we'll be sailing early for Kos—yes, we're talking sunrise here!! It's amazingly beautiful on the water - if you've never experienced this before, it's well worth getting dragging yourself out of bed for. This is going to be the long day's sail, as we need to clear out of Greece, then into Turkey. So, we'll arrive in Kos around 10am, and get customs paperwork cleared as fast as possible. We'll have a couple of hours in Kos—plenty to go see the castle and the famous plane tree where Hippocrates supposedly taught (for the more culturally-inclined); or enjoy a great chocolate milkshake on the busy waterfront for others!
Passports duly stamped, we will set sail for Bodrum; a lovely beam reach for a couple of hours, where it will be Welcome to Turkey ! Or at least, modern-day Turkey; Bodrum is quite the busy, bustling metropolis. Winding street bazaars criss-cross the town, beautiful old wooden gulets line the waterfront, as do hundreds of little bars and restaurants. The fortress of St John is still incredibly intact, and has a fascinating museum inside. And for those who love their nightlife, Bodrum claims the largest outdoor disco - "Halicarnassos" - in Europe ! It's also THE place for those Born to Shop; great bargains to be had in all sorts of leather goods, silver jewellery and semi-precious stones; and of course, the ubiquitous Turkish carpets.
Day Eight
We'll spend most of the day in Bodrum, leaving around late afternoon for Karaada Adasi - a little island just a short distance from Bodrum with hot springs! Winds permitting, we'll anchor in a quiet and beautiful little bay to chill out after the bright lights of Bodrum! Cocktails under the stars... A barbeque on the beach? A great spot for any wannabe-boy scouts; campfire songs around a blazing bonfire!
Day Nine
Sail to Kalaboshi - another fairly early morning rise, as this is our long sail day - 5hours or so. Usually downwind or across the beam, if the gods are with us. We should be at our destination in time for lunch; and time to explore the tiny village of Kalaboshi ! Our favourite taverna here has the best home-cooked Turkish food imaginable - not the usual tourist fare. The village itself has a great little bay for cooling off; for those looking for a little more privacy, a short hike away is a lovely long and isolated beach; a perfect afternoon retreat.
Day Ten
Sail to Bozuk Buku - another contrast again! A wide, protected bay with towering cliffs all around - and the still-intact remains of an ancient fortress which used to encircle the bay. The cliffs are very dramatic, arid and desert-like - quite different to the lush pine-forested areas we'll have just left. There is just one tiny taverna here - little more than a shack. If you hike up into these hillsides, you can find ruins dating back well into BC times.
Day Eleven
Sail to Bozburun; usually very leisurely sail around the peninsula. Bozburun is a small, very traditional Turkish town; full of gulets (wooden motor sailors), but not many yachts, and certainly not many tourists. A great discovery of last year (2000) for us was a family-run pension/restaurant right on the waterfront, just outside the town; their little wooden jetty seemed purpose-built to fit our yachts, and the family delightfully warm and friendly. It is a shady, tranquil little spot to hang out in - and we even get to borrow their fun kayaks plus a windsurfer or two to go explore the bay in! Most importantly of all is the evening's entertainment - for our groups, they will invite along local friends who play traditional Turkish music - and even a belly-dancer to teach us all how it is done !
There is also a chance to take a minibus trip inland to see some of the local villages, climb a little waterfall to cool off! - and visit a carpet-making cooperative, to see firsthand how it is all done.
Day Twelve
Sail to Dirsek. A late start the next morning, for those who have aching belly-muscles to nurse. It's another gentle run to Dirsek, a secluded little bay about 2 hours sail away. A little taverna lies nestled in one corner, a blaze of brightly-coloured bougainvillea and other greenery. Wonderful place to swim and generally completely veg out.
Day Thirteen
Sail to Keci Buku. A well-sheltered hideout described as a "gem" in the Turkish Waters Pilot - and it truly is. A wide, sweeping bay surrounded by pine forests, with a fascinating old fortress perched on the top of an island guarding the entrance - a view which is well worth the scramble up! It is also just 30 mins drive from Marmaris - the easiest connection back to the "real world" of modern-day Turkey, where you can shop-till-you-drop some more; or just head on through and back to Dalaman, the closest airport, and domestic connections to Istanbul. Easy ferry connections also from Marmaris-Rhodes.
Day Fourteen
Disembark 9am in Keci Buku.
Ongoing connection info: We can help arrange transportation from Keci Buku to Marmaris that afternoon/evening, or directly to the airport at Dalaman, for those who need to catch a flight right away. Alternatively, we can highly recommend a little family pension in Keci Buku for an extra night to chill out; or a hotel in Marmaris for those in need of a more lively evening / a shopping fix! Ferries run from Marmaris-Rhodes (Greece) twice a day; approx 9am and 3pm.