This is an example of a typical itinerary on our Keci Buku to Fethiye trips. However, no two trips are ever exactly the same; one of the greatest things about being on a sailboat is the flexibility to change our minds and our route to suit personal preferences, prevailing wind conditions, etc. The start and finish points are fixed, of course - but all else is changeable according to the whims of the wind gods and those on board !
Day One
Your yacht will be awaiting you at 11am in Keci Buku - 30mins drive from the main town
of Marmaris. A wonderful contrast to the buzzing metropolis, Keci Buku is described as
a "gem" in the Turkish Waters Pilot - and it truly is. A wide, sweeping bay surrounded
by pine forests, with a fascinating old fortress perched on the top of an island
guarding the entrance; a view which is well worth the scramble up!
After having gotten everyone settled in, we'll set off for our first destination of Dirsek - an even quieter, very pretty little bay, with just one taverna nestled in a corner. Wonderful swimming, great chillout spot; and a shortish sail on the first day to get everyone's sealegs working !
Day Two
Enough of the quiet, relaxing evenings to recover from jetlag - tonight, we are heading
for a night of belly-dancing ! We'll be heading for Bozburun; usually very leisurely
sail around the corner. Bozburun is a small, very traditional Turkish town; full of
gulets (wooden motor sailors), but not many yachts, and certainly not many tourists.
A great discovery of last year (2000) for us was a family-run pension/restaurant right
on the waterfront, just outside the town; their little wooden jetty seemed purpose-built
to fit our yachts, and the family delightfully warm and friendly. It is a shady,
tranquil little spot to hang out in - and we even get to borrow their fun kayaks plus
a windsurfer or two to go explore the bay in! Most importantly of all is the evening's
entertainment - for our groups, they will invite along local friends who play traditional
Turkish music - and even a belly-dancer to teach us all how it is done !
Day Three
Sail to Boyuk Buku, usually a gentle, relaxing downwind leg of around 2-3hrs.
Boyuk Buku is scenically a total contrast to the other places we visit - the softer,
pine-forested hills suddenly change into dramatically towering cliffs, arid and desolate
as any desert. The ancient city of Lorimer used to be situated here, and the fortress
walls which surrounded the entire bay can still be seen. Great for hiking, amazing
views.
Day Four
A fairly early am departure, and 4-5 hour sail to Eckincek. This is a
beautiful, pine-clad bay, the scenery is just stunning. The restaurant overlooking
our anchorage has totally most spectacular views; one of the few somewhat "upmarket"
spots we sometimes visit on our travels. It is also the place to anchor whilst
visiting the famous Lycian cliff tombs, mud baths, etc of the Dalyan River.
Day Five
For those who would like to do the Dalyan River trip - our Turkish guide,
Mesut will pick us up after breakfast, and - we'll motor round to the entrance of
the river mouth. This in itself is something travel photographers would hock their
best lens for; a tiny sandy islet protecting the mouth of the river, pine trees
lining the beaches surrounding the entrance; the river winding inland around tall
reed banks. As we pass over the sandbar and into the narrow, reed-clad channels,
it feels like the "African Queen" revisted ! This image is quickly dispelled as
the river opens up further on, and the Lycian cliff tombs come into view. These
amazingly complex carvings date from around 3rd & 4th centuries BC - this is now
most definitely a journey into the ancient world.
The ancient city of Caunos is the centrepiece of the river trip (though just the scenery and fun in the mudbaths are a large part of it !). Even people who've claimed little interest in "piles of old rocks" have emerged well and truly impressed with the sense of history that emanates from this place; the extent of the remaining ruins still creates a strong impression of the city that was once a lively and bustling seaport.
Lunch in the little town of Dalyan, followed by a visit to the hot springs and mud baths - a chance to be a total kid and completely cake yourself in mud, just like your Mom always told you not to! Then hang out in the hot springs for a while - and if you feel in need of cooling off, jump into the more refreshing waters of the river running alongside! The boat will then take us up to the freshwater lake at the head of the river - another chance to swim. On the return, we'll also stop at Iztuzu (a protected turtle reserve); a walk along the sandy beach, lie out for a while, or swim more in the ocean.
For the evening, we can either choose a) stay on the little jetty in Eckincek; a) anchor out in a little bay opposite; or an hour's sunset sail to another tiny, tucked away spot around the corner; a more traditional Turkish taverna hidden away ona little beach.
Day Six
Sail to Kapi Creek; a beautifully tranquil little anchorage. This is where
we found Murat and his family - his wife and sister-in-law weave those amazingly intricate
Turkish carpets right there in their tiny village homes. If you are interested in
buying a Turkish carpet, it's well worth waiting until you get here. Not only do
you get a very personal, first-hand experience of where and how your carpet was made;
but you also know that your money is going direct to the family who put so much time
and effort into it - not getting lost in several middlemen's pockets !
Day Seven
Sail to Gemiler Adasi - an isolated and wild-looking little island just outside
the bay. Tradition says that it was a pirate stronghold in centuries past - certainly the
vantage point it offers from up on the high hills, overlooking ships sailing up or down
the coast - would make it a perfect spot. There are some good-sized remains of a
Byzantine settlement on the island, including still-intact mosaic floors. Look out
for the "pancake lady" - she makes the most amazing pancakes, fresh off the hotplate
of the little boat she and her husband row out to our anchorage !
Day Eight
Sail to Gocek . It's a friendly, pretty little town, no-one hassles you to buy
anything as you walk along the street (unlike the bigger towns!) It is developing a
reputation as the "upmarket" place to be, the locals actively discourage all the
package-tour operators from moving in. Rumour has it that it is being quietly adopted
by some of the rich n' famous as one of their get-away-from-it-all hideaways;
this past summer, several shopkeepers were just totally delighted and proud to show
us their photos of some very well-known personalities who had patronised their
establishments recently! The marina also has a wonderful haman - the traditional
Turkish bath, an exfoliating body scrub, full massage, hot towels and marble slabs,
apple tea - all for a mere $25 or so !!
Day Nine
Sail to Laundry Bay for swim n' lunch stop. Laundry Bay is supposedly named
by some yachties of many years ago who found a hot spring here and passed the word
around that this was the place to do one's laundry! Well, so the Pilot book says -
we have looked and looked and not found them. Raki is on us for the first person to find
them ! In the meantime, this bay is a real gem despite the lack of hot springs - it's a
deep, deep hue of green, both the water and surrounding pine trees, and totally tranquil.
Sail that afternoon for Ruin Bay - supposedly the site of "Cleopatra's Baths". Whether this claim-to-fame is true or not is open to question - but snorkelling around the semi-submerged remains of this little bathhouse is quite the time-warp experience anyhow! There is just one tiny taverna in this bay, owned by Regep - a real character! From the modern-day feel of Fethiye, this is quite the contrast; Regep still has to carry all the water his family (and the taverna) needs by little fishing boat from a natural spring source, half an hour away. Regep also bakes the most amazing bread for breakfast!
Day Ten
Sail to Fethiye. This is largest town in the bay, and only an hour from Dalaman
airport, which is a big bonus! It's a lively, fun town, with dozens of traditional wooden
gulets (motor-sailors) lining the waterfront, numerous bars and tavernas scattered amongst
the lanes of the bazaar. If you have an extra day or two, it's well worth spending here.
Be sure not to miss the Turkish baths if so… an exfoliating body scrub, full massage,
hot towels and marble slabs, apple tea.. a totally Turkish experience - all for a mere
$25 or so !!
Disembarkation time from the boat(s) is 4pm. We can arrange transportation from Fethiye to either Marmaris (ferry connections to Greece) or Dalaman airport (domestic connections to Istanbul). For those wishing to stay longer in Fethiye, there are several hotels which we can recommend.
Ongoing connection info: We can help arrange transportation from Keci Buku to Marmaris that afternoon/evening, or directly to the airport at Dalaman, for those who need to catch a flight right away. Alternatively, we can highly recommend a little family pension in Keci Buku for an extra night to chill out; or a hotel in Marmaris for those in need of a more lively evening / a shopping fix! Ferries run from Marmaris-Rhodes (Greece) twice a day; approx 9am and 3.30pm.