The Restoration Mailing List
RESTORATION ARCHIVE AND F.A.Q.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
TIPS & PERSONAL ACCOUNTS
ABOUT THE ARCHIVE/FAQ
T-TAPE AND STRAP RESTORATION METHOD
By Derrick Townsend: http://www.4skin.com/chymmylt/frames.html
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From: "W. David Cook" <2Cookies@compuserve.com>
Q: I have one question. When I wear a shoulder strap (at night) and my
body changes position from curled up to straight, the strap produces too
much tension on the front side and hurts. The problem is the elastic strap
doesn't slide over the shoulder area, whether worn inside or outside a T-shirt....
A: I buy suspenders, and then separate them into two straps, which can
then be adjusted for any number of stretching positions. My preference is
for the suspenders which are attached with a little metal framework, rather than
sewn together. One end of the suspender is clipped to the T-tape, pill-tube
or other device you may be using, and the other end is clipped back to the
strap to form a loop to accommodate the waist, neck, leg, etc. To help the
strap slide over the shoulder so as not to bind, make a sleeve out of nylon or
other slick material and run the elastic thru it over your shoulder so it can
I adjust and use the separated straps for any of the following:
(1) Around the waist for out-of-the-way tugging for all outside daytime
activities. Pull the strap around the waist, and clip it to a convenient
spot on the strap...or to clothing if preferred.
(2) Around the leg, just below the knee for daytime downward tugging. I
loop the strap around my leg twice and clip. Some padding is desirable to
prevent the clip from digging into the skin.
(3) For nighttime, a loop around my neck to give centered UP tugging to
accommodate nighttime erections. I generally sleep on my back, but this
seems to work well in most positions.
(4) In combination with RECAP-EZ, looped around the RECAP-EZ and clipped
to T-tape to pull outward along the length of the RECAP-EZ.
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Dual-action Incremental Longitudinally Expanding (DILE) Insert
IMPORTANT NOTE: In order to use the DILE Insert System you need a minimum
distance between POE and bottom of glans of ~ 1.5 inches. The DILE is an
intermediate or advanced stretching method.
Price - $35.00 - cash or money order left blank - I asked my bank, you can do
If you are interested in a DILE send me an e-mail at Dileinsert@aol.com. From
that e-mail, I will send you a diagram of the DILE (as an attached GIF file -
thanks to Art Madd from the mailing list). After receiving this diagram and
if you are further interested, you may request additional GIF files on the
various accessories of the DILE Inset System (i.e., nerf arrow insert and t-
tapes). These accessories are so individualized that it would be a waste of
your money (and my time) for me to make these for you.
From these diagrams you would be able to make your own DILE, however, it is
probably easier for you just to order one from me. But of course, you are
free to try and make your own, that is why I'm providing the diagrams. Mind
you however, I have posted various descriptions of the DILE in the past and I
am really no longer willing to go through the pain of trying to describe
exactly how I make these. The description is pretty complicated, so I figured
that I would spend that time just making them.
To order a DILE send an e-mail to Dileinsert@aol.com stating your wishes, your
address and where you heard about the DILE (i.e., restoration forum,
restoration mailing list, friend..). I will accept the orders on a first
come, first served basis. I will make the DILEs in sets of 6-7. Once I have
your's made, I will send you an e-mail. At that time, you will send in your
payment (I'll give the address at that time as I do not want people just
sending in money now).
I'm not sure how long I'm going to be willing (or able) to do this. So, I'd
advise you to get one now, if you really do want one.
Finally, I'm not really going to be ‘advertizing' these per se. I may post
this message every few months or so (3-4 months), but mainly, I think that it
is better for the product (the DILE) to speak for itself.
If you are interested, send me an e-mail at Dileinsert@aol.com and I'll send
you a scanned picture of the DILE.
The price of $35.00 includes expenses (materials, shipping, supplies) and a
‘little something' for my time (past in development and current in
PRICE INCLUDES -
1 DILE (with key ring)
4 inch length of nerf arrow (you need to shape this for your individual needs)
diagram describing how to fashion DILE appropriate nerf arrow insert
diagram describing how to prepare DILE appropriate t-tapes
diagram of DILE (for your records)
shipping to anywhere in USA
NOTE: You will need to purchase a hand held hole puncher and some double edged
platinum chrome razor blades (these blades are very thin and very flexible)
For more information visit the DILE website.
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DILE - Do-it-Yourself
The DILE is an internal packing device which can be adjusted (incrementally)
to expand longitudinally (lengthwise) once it is inserted and enclosed within
the developing foreskin. The DILE Insert System is to be used in conjunction
with a modified t-tape. The t-tape is then closed up around the device.
There is also a foam insert which is fashioned from a length of nerf arrow
which is placed inside the skin tube before the DILE is inserted. Once the t-
tape is closed, the length of the DILE is then expanded by twisting a nylon
screw which protrudes beyond the t-tape. This allows for ‘minor' adjustments
to the internal pressure. Once the internal pressure is right the nylon screw
which is protruding from the t-tape is attached to the suspender clip and
strap that you use (if you choose to use a strap though it is not required).
A loop key ring is used for this attachment as it fits through a hole in the
nylon screw. This key ring also is used as the ‘turning mechanism', since it
is easy to grab and turn like a key.
OPEN DIAGRAM IN SEPARATE BROWSER WINDOW
DILE INSERT SYSTEM - HOME MADE ACCESSORIES
Nerf Arrow Insert -
Because the DILE can only ‘expand' to a total of 2.5 inches and we all WILL
gain more ‘skin tube' than this, you'll need to augment the internal packing
with foam. This portion of the DILE Insert System is so individualized that
you need to fashion this nerf insert yourself. I do provide a length of nerf
arrow (4 inches) which will be long enough for your individual insert.
Additionally, as time goes by and you grow more skin you will need to
periodically refashion additional nerf inserts (CAUSE YOU WILL GROW OUT OF
THEM!!). Please refer to the figure (DILE nerf arrow insert) for
clarification of the following description. By using a new (and sharp)
flexible razor blade (platinum/chrome) you will shape the nerf insert as per
the diagram. You will also need to scoop out a concavity on top (for the
DILE) and on bottom (for your glans). If you've fashioned the nerf arrow
properly, the bottom half of the DILE insert should rest snugly within the
foam arrow and your glans will fit nicely into the bottom. When the system is
in place, I put a piece of TP between the glans and the nerf insert to absorb
OPEN DIAGRAM IN SEPARATE BROWSER WINDOW
T-TAPE MODIFICATION -
Now, you also need to make your own DILE appropriate t-tapes. Please look at
the figures for clarification of the following description. Make the t-tape
as shown in the figure. This results in a t-tape which is reinforced around
the POE and along the ‘flaps'. The masking tape helps cut down on the
stretching of the holes in the flaps. Cut away your standard 1 inch notch,
then divide the remaining length of t-tape ‘flap' into 4 equal sections. I
then make a cut to within about 1/8 to 1/4 of the backing material at each of
these marks. This should result in a t-tape that has 4 ‘flaps' which can be
closed up. Now, right smack in the middle of each of these ‘flaps' take a
hand held paper hole puncher and punch out a hole which is COMPLETELY centered
(top/bottom... left/right). You will eventually fed the nylon screw up
through each of these holes. I also cut out wedges of the t-tape tails to
remove excess t-tape (look at the figure). If these wedges are not cut out
the extra tape gets in the way when the DILE is fully expanded.
OPEN DIAGRAM 1 IN SEPARATE BROWSER WINDOW
OPEN DIAGRAM 2 IN SEPARATE BROWSER WINDOW
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER -
Now, tape up as normal. I make sure that I have the second flap from the left
(flap #2) centered on my member. Now, slide in your foam packing. I usually
take a square of TP, fold it in half and place this around the end (front to
back) of the nerf insert. This helps absorb moisture. Next, twist the DILE
insert down to its smallest length. Remove the key ring from the DILE insert
and put the insert into the hollowed out foam packing (nerf insert). Then
take each of the flaps and bring them up and over the nylon screw (like
closing up a box with the nylon screw going through the center of each flap).
The main point here is to have the internal tension be SO tight to start,
without the DILE insert expanded, that it is almost too difficult to bring the
flaps up over the nylon screw. Having this initial tension start off this
high allows for greater tension while the DILE is in use, as well as a longer
wearing time. If you are having too much trouble getting all of the flaps
over the nylon screw (this could be painful so be careful and DO NOT FORCE IT)
try trimming your foam packing a little. Once the flaps are all closed,
reinsert the key ring through the hole in the nylon screw and turn the key
ring (thereby expanding the DILE insert) until the level of tension is
comfortable. That's it!! Now, you can take the key ring and attach it to
your clip on your waist or leg strap. To use the men's room you just simply
repeat the process in reverse.
It is obvious that you first need enough of a skin tube to get the gadget into
place. This is about 1.5 inches (though, with using 3 inch micro instead of 2
inch micro you may be able to get by with a shorter POE to glans distance).
It is recommended that you do not wear the DILE fully expanded during the
night, as nocturnal erections could present a problem if the DILE is
completely MAXED. Additionally, over the course of the day you may need to
adjust the internal tension. This is because the tape will slowly stretch
out. However, increasing of the tension is as simple as unclipping the key
ring and giving it a turn or two (or there...). I normally get 2-3 days our
of a single taping.
Well there you have it. I'd be happy to respond to any questions/comments.
Also, if it seems as though I've left out an important point, please bring it to
For those who are interested, I do have a much more detailed post which may
clarify some of your questions. I'd be happy to send that at your request.
Top of Page
More on Suspenders
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (David Barnett)
To be more specific, the suspenders in question are Farah suspenders
sold at Wal Mart.
To aid in identification, I'll print out the whole label here:
"Company B for Farah
Big & Tall
Better by design:
*case hardened steel
*plastic insert clips
*webbing turned under
*double stitched to
Created with pride in the usa
basic and modern
of everyday wear"
color asst. dept.23
0 46553 32820 8 $5.97
They're the extra long suspenders, 1" wide, available in assorted
colors. The navy blue ones are identical to the straps that came with
my D. Evans Restore Skin kit, but I prefer the charcoal gray ones I
bought this afternoon. The two straps are held together only by a
metal clip thingy, once you cut it off you have two adjustable straps.
For down-the-leg use, you'll want to remove the adjustment "clutch" --
cut the suspender clip from one end, slip off the locking adjustment
"clutch" thingy, and cut the elastic to fit your leg. You can
reattach the suspender clip with a safety pin, that's how Evans
supplied his leg strap. For over-the-shoulder use, a single
unmodified adjustable suspender as supplied by Farah will do the
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By "Johnny" and provided from: Clark <email@example.com>
and John Hyde firstname.lastname@example.org
Step 1: I strongly suggest the 3M Micropore Tape, since it
sticks very well, and it's VERY easy to remove when taking a shower without tearing your skin apart! Rolls are
available alone, but I suggest you get the useful dispenser that 3M sells. This dispenser makes cutting pieces
of tape a piece of cake! You will need the one inch (1") wide tape. Cut 5 pieces, 2.5" long, and one
long piece--its length equal the circumference
of your dick shaft (soft) + 1 inch.
Step 2: Using your fingers, pull on the skin over the glans
as far as possible.
Without hurting yourself! Roll the skin back and forth between your fingers until
you feel that the tension on both the outside and inside are equal.
Step 3: Then, using a pen, make a mark on the edge of the fold.
This mark indicates your "Equilibrium Point" or "POE".
Step 4: Roll the long piece of tape around your shaft, sticky
The bottom side of the tape MUST BE one half inch (1/2") higher (towards
the glans) than the mark you just did ('cause the tape is one inch [1"] wide.
I recommend being a LITTLE hard; it helps applying the tape correctly.
Step 5: Roll the skin. Holding your glans steady with your
fingers, roll the
skin onto the tape until your equilibrium point reaches the middle of the tape.
Then gently apply pressure with your left hand (if right handed) all around
the shaft to ensure good contacts between the tape and the skin.
Step 6: Apply pressure. Just to be on the safe side, you can
the tape and the skin together with your fingers (I don't do this anymore, but
when you start, it can help).
Step 7: Add the small tapes. Now apply one small tape onto
the tape around your dick by putting 1" of the sticky side of the small tape onto the sticky side
of the tape around your dick. You now have a 1.5" piece of tape extending up beyond the tape around your dick. You'll get better results if half an inch of the
tape is on the skin (no more, no less). Here, both sticky sides of the tapes should be in contact with each other. Then, fold the loose part of the tape,
the part sticking up, in two. This will be one of the "ears" of the tape which you will clip to your elastic strap. Do the same with the other small tapes until you fill all the "free spaces" around your shaft.
Step 8: "The Flower." The end result should sort
of look like a flower. Neat, hey?!
Step 9: As you can see, the end result looks a lot like the
original T-Tape method,
but it will take you between 3 and 5 minutes to get the same result. You won't
need to be hard to install the tapes, and there are no more tapes to prepare!!!
Quite faster, ain't it?!
Step 10: Now, wrap all the tapes together, so it becomes easy
to grab all of them,
and clip them together with your elastic strap and voila!
From: "George (Pete) Tolleson" <email@example.com>
I'm still using it, with a couple of improvements like ReJuveness tape
and a length of twine at the POE. It takes a little longer than
T-tapes, but I don't have to be hard to apply it and there's less
wrinkling because the circumference is smaller.
Essentially, I put a cylinder of tape sticky side out around a pill
tube/film canister before I roll the skin up over it, and then stick
the outer tape to the skin and inner tape the way it would be done
with a pill tube. I can then slip the pill tube/film canister out and
have a soft flexible tape in place to tug to. It lasts three or four
Top of Page
From: Rio Cruz <firstname.lastname@example.org>
My version of the t-tape is made of two pieces of Micorpore instead of one.
I make one t-tape for the dorsal side of my dick and one for the bottom or
ventral side. The virtue of it is that both tapes use the length of the Micorpore
rather than the width and are stronger. And since there is a naturally formed slit
on either side where the two tapes come together but do not stick together, it
makes it easier to insert and remove a foam cylinder or other form of packing.
They are also very easy to make and can be made in under a minute. Using a
combination of 1", 2" and 3" Micorpore, you can make a t-tape to fit just about
any dick circumference.
With a roll of tape, put down 3/4 of an inch of the sticky side of the tape
on the edge of a table or counter or other surface. This will be the first
"foot" of the t-tape which will stick to your skin. Unroll more tape and
double back on top of the tape you just put down to about an inch and 1/2.
Double back again, sticking the two sticky surfaces together to form the
"ears" of the t-tape and then on past for another 3/4 of an inch to form
the second "foot" of the tape. You end up with a t-tape with feet or
(rather foot) measuring 1 and 1/2 inches wide and with "ears" 1 and 1/2
inches long or however long you chose to make them. Obviously, these
lengths are very flexible and you can make a tape with any size feet or
ears you choose. With a regular t-tape, the length of the feet and ears are fixed
because they are determined by the width of the tape you use. But by
making the t-tapes of two pieces using the length of the tape, you can
create any dimension you like. Since Micorpore comes in various widths,
you can combine tape widths to match your dick circumference. In my case,
I at first was taping hard so two pieces of the 3" wide Micorpore came out
just right. Later, when I had more skin to work with, I taped up flaccid
so I used a piece of 3" Micorpore for the top and a piece of 2" wide
Micropore for the bottom. That came out just about right as well. For
extra reinforcement, I used pieces of 1" tape to fill in the gaps between
the feet. This made for a very strong t-tape which could withstand many
days of use.
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TEGADERM & THERA-BAND ELASTIC STRETCHING DEVICE
From: Gary Harryman <Glharryman@aol.com>
The reasons for using these two products are uncomplicated.
1. With Tegaderm Transparent Dressing, for the first time since T-taping was
invented, the skin under the tape is also stretched. This skin comprises a
large percentage of the total skin you are affecting.
2. Regular inelastic tapes do not allow the critical one-inch of skin under
the tape to stretch. (Ed. note: This is debatable. With relatively soft, flexible,
porous tapes like Micropore, Hypafix and Rejuveness, skin expansion does seem
to take place under the tape)
3. The Thera-Band elastic equalizes the tug force uniformly the circumference
of the foreskin, allows for easy access to the glans to urinate, and provides
a quick and simple way to avoid lateral expansion of the end of your foreskin.
4. These materials as used are an outstanding improvement over every other
taping system. By allowing the shaft skin to stretch fully, from base to tip,
they seriously speed up the foreskin restoration process with less pubic hair
5. And Tegaderm can be comfortably left on days longer than anything else can
- which may offset its greater cost. It can also be used with the RECAP-EZ
and other devices.
We are indebted to Dr. Jon Franks for showing us how to do this. He has
experimented with a number of tapes and found this to be the best. He has
gained considerable foreskin in a very short time using this method. Thanks
also to R.Wayne Griffiths cofounder of NORM email@example.com who originally
gave us most of this information.
WHAT YOU NEED
*A packet of 3M's Tegaderm Transparent Dressing. The #1626W size seems to
work fine and is most readily available. If it will fit, #1621 (4 x 51/2in)
costs about $3.25 and will make 2 sets. (#1628 is 6 x 8in and makes 4 sets -
#1629 is 8 x 12in and makes 8 sets this is probably the most economical)
*A small box of Thera-Band Resistive Exerciser (Natural Latex rubber - color
code "red-medium" seems to have the right tension and can be doubled for more tension)
will be 6 yards long and only about 2 feet is needed and can be reused many times.
The larger box contains 50 yards. Most Medical Supply houses and Pharmacies also sell
it by the foot.
*A small (3 inch) rubber band.
*Release-able paper. The kind of paper self-adhesive stamps come on.
*Patience and digital dexterity. Tegaderm is thin as Saran Wrap and sticky as
*Optional: Tincture of Benzoin and De-solve-It.
HOW TO DO IT
1. Cut a piece of Thera-Band about 2 feet long. It is 51/2 inches wide and
can be trimmed narrower (leave no sharp corners - they will tear) if the
circumference of your penile shaft erect is smaller. Lay it on a table with a
release-able surface like Formica.
2. Cut a piece of release-able paper like the backing off of the Tegaderm pad
2 x 6 inches. Fold it in half lengthwise with the release surface out.
[EDITOR'S NOTE: Tegaderm has two backing papers but only one adhesive side.
The BROWN backing is the non-adhesive side while the WHITE side, with the
3M Tegaderm logo on it, is the adhesive side. As of Feb. 15, 1999, I have
requested some clarification from the author to make these instructions more
3. Cut the Tegaderm pad in half lengthwise. Remove the release-able paper off
the adhesive side of the Tegaderm half pad. Leave the "frame" on the other
side - this is important! The Tegaderm is so thin that you must have this
"shape-holding frame" to handle it. Desolve-It will help remove your learning
experiences without bloodshed.
4. Lay the adhesive side of this piece down on the release-able folded paper
and then, leaving a 1/8 to 1/4in gap between the Thera-Band and the release-
able surface, apply the Tegaderm to the Thera-Band. Very carefully lift the
Thera-Band and Tegaderm off the table and turn it over. Repeat the process
with the other half of the Tegaderm.
5. You now have a T-tape type of setup with the release paper on the adhesive
sides - the leg of the T has a layer of Thera-Band sandwiched in between.
6. With an erection or other application method you use, find the point you
want to apply the tape to and start on or near the centerline on the underside
of the shaft and remove the backing as you pat the Tegaderm down on your skin.
(NOTE: If you want to leave the system on for several days or you have oily
skin, you should apply and dry Tincture of Benzoin to the skin before applying
7. Remove the backing as you proceed around the shaft. Make sure that you
have firmly pushed, patted, and rubbed the Tegaderm to the skin before pulling
it away from the body. When finished you have a tube of Thera-Band with a
split on the underside (some guys prefer to have it on the top side). It is a
good idea to let the Tegaderm adhesive be on your skin for a few minutes to
get secure adhesion before tugging.
8. Take a small rubber band, double it up once or twice, and run it up over
the Thera-Band to the end of, but not over, your new foreskin. Because
Tegaderm is so thin and flexible this will help maintain closure, just as you
should be doing when you are not using any stretching device, to train the
foreskin to close in front of the glans and avert lateral stretching.
9. You can now stretch the Thera-Band to your sock, or around your waist, or
wherever you want to take it. Then use one of the following methods to fasten
a. Use a large safety pin and thread it through the Thera-Band several times
and fasten it.
b. You can obtain a wide piece of sewing elastic and pin it to the Thera-Band
and sew a clip to it to fasten to where you want it. Or use a 6-inch piece of
a suspender with the clip on it. Safety pin the Thera-Band and then clip it
to your end point.
c. Another alternative is to use a shorter piece of Thera-Band and a longer
suspender section. The Thera-Band should always be a minimum of 9 or 10
inches to function properly.
10. When you want to urinate, roll the rubber band down out of the way. You
may prefer to unclip the Thera-Band from the end point or not. Fold the
Thera-Band up over the shaft to expose the glans and urinate. Reverse the
procedure when finished.
The three sources to date are:
Contact us: Fax (801) 223-9103 email: firstname.lastname@example.org
3M Tegaderm, 1626W, 50/box, 4 box/case
1 box (50) $45.00
1 case (4x50=200) $160.00
West-Val Medical Supply
5361 Balboa (Back of parking lot)
Encino, CA, USA
Ask for Connelly
2860 Artesia Blvd
Redondo Beach, CA, USA
Top of Page
THE SIDES PILL TUBE RESTORATION METHOD
From: Bill Sides <email@example.com>
One day as part of a raffle prize I won an aluminium tube containing
Berocca vitamin pills. It was almost exactly 1" in diameter, had a closed end and a pronounced roll at the
other where the plastic cap fitted. I ate the pills and it occurred to me that by cutting the closed end off, I
could poke my flaccid glans in and roll the skin forward and tape it to the tube. The roll on the open end made
attach- ment of a trouser suspenders easy, the metal tube kept the moisture from the tape and of course having
a pee was just a case of unzipping your fly, it was not even necessary to undo the suspender clip, although I usually
did. I found you could easily and inconspicuously use a public urinal and shake dry as normal so adopted the little
metal tube. As I gained foreskin length I used progressively
longer tubes, starting with about a 2" long tube and ending up with about a 4" long tube.
The tube is very thin at about 22 gauge metal so needs protection
at the cut end to avoid recircumcising yourself. This was simply fixed by sanding
the cut end of the tube with 1200 emery cloth so it was not sharp. After that, each time it was used I put two wraps of Micropore, usually 1" wide,
half its width on the outside, the other half folded inside over the sharp end. This gave an added cushion to the most sensitive part the sulcus and more protection and helped seal out moisture. If you are lucky enough to have a largely intact frenulum you may find it beneficial to put a small
nick in the cut end of the tube to accommodate it. This becomes less important as skin grows and the frenulum is left far behind. Incidentally even if largely intact still it will never help keep the skin forward as
restoration pulls it forward too, not the skin fold that was once behind behind it as nature meant it.
A 1" pill tube will accommodate any glans no matter how
well endowed, simply poke it in, the tighter the better. I used my wife's face lotion on my glans to help keep
it moist, help it slide in the tube and to help soften up the cornified glans skin. Moisture is vital to regaining
early penis sensitivity and full feeling gain is an impossibility whilst still using T tape. Believe me this earlier
feeling gain is reason enough to use the pill tube over other methods.
With the glans head poked in and everything flaccid, roll the shaft skin
forward over the outside of the tube. Don't force it. Wherever it stops
rolling forward easily is the current equilibrium point. No need to measure
or mark anything. Roll 2" Micropore on straight from the roll, half on the
tube, half on the skin. Do not wrap it on too tight and use two wraps. Cut
the tape off... I suggest always at the top. That way the end is easier
to find when it comes time to remove the tape. Attach the elastic by
whatever method best suits you. The clips on my K-Mart trouser
suspenders gripped fine on the rolled end of the tube where the cap once
was. Basically all you have really done to this stage is shove your glans up a
tube, pull the shaft skin forward over the tube and tape it there. If this
takes over a minute to do you must incapacitated somehow.
The elastic used is important, it needs to be capable of considerable
stretch otherwise tension may be rather variable when moving about on your
daily work. I initially had very little skin to roll over the tube so used
only a single piece of 1" elastic. I soon found I could increase the
tension and used doubled over elastic. The easiest tension method by far
was to wrap the elastic from the tube, around the outside of my leg and
attach it to my sock top in front of my leg. The K-Mart suspender elastic
and clips were perfect for attachment to sock top and pill tube. I rolled
the sock top slightly to help it grip there. I split the pair of suspenders in half
and sewed up the elastic to length using the original adjusters to increase
tension when I felt it desirable. Nothing could be seen and I never had any
trouble except a nasty moment at aircraft security when the aluminium pill tube
sent the machines into a frenzy. If it happens to you, tell them as I did, you
have a surgical brace! No lie really!
One other minor warning, don't bump your penis against anything hard. You
have no idea how much it hurts to have your nice new foreskin jammed
between a solid object and an aluminium tube. Fortunately damage is unlikely
given the two wraps of tape protection and clothing.
At night I removed and washed the pill tube just before bed. This I strongly
recommend if you wish to avoid infections. I washed the tube thoroughly each
time after taking it off, then put it back on. Those who say they keep tapes on
for days disgust me and risk their health quite apart from the inevitable smell....
To remove the pill tube is simplicity itself. A penis is hand basin height
so you simply front up, run warm over the tape and lightly massage water
into the tape. A little soap or detergent helps wetting and tape release.
Now you will discover why I suggest cutting the tape to end on top as the
end is rarely obvious wet. If you always tape in the same direction and
finish in the same place, the end is easily located and unwrapping is easy.
Slosh a little water on the tape as you unwrap. The first wrap comes off
easily, the second wrap on the skin comes off almost as easily and can be
done quickly if sluiced with water as it is removed. If unwrapped this way,
most glue will come off with the tape. Have a shower, go to bed, have fun,
apologies to your partner then get up and tape up again. As it takes
moments only to tape and untape it is no big deal.
Pulling for 23 out of 24 hours is possible without hassles and your skin
will take it. The beauty of the pill tube is that tension is always even
so skin damage even with high tensions is very rare. At night tugging is
more beneficial so progress better as higher tension can be reliably
maintained. I used the other half of the K-Mart suspenders and make a loop
to go around my upper leg, around my back to the pill tube. Which leg you
go around depends on which side you lay on in bed. If like most men you
sleep on your back and right side, loop the elastic around your right leg
and back to the pill tube. You thus pull sideways at night. It is of no
consequence. I prefer pulling down as the top skin needs to be stretched
more than the bottom but the even taping makes it all largely irrelevant
anyway. There is no point having rest days, it just makes the task take
I mentioned above that I did not pull on the inside of the foreskin. I had
my reasons and found that only pulling on the outer skin did not compromise
speed. I got 3/4" overhang in 9 months, only 5 being with the pill tube and
when most skin gains were made. My circ scar is just 1/4" inside the end
meaning the most sensitive part of my penis, the sulcus has just 1/4"
coverage. It had been stretched any it would have meant that I would
have had to tape far longer and have an inch or more overhang which would
start to look a little silly or unnatural and become a nuisance at the
For those wishing to stretch the sulcus anyway, this is very easy to
arrange with the pill tube. I tested the following and found it equally
comfortable and it adds only a few seconds to the fitting time.
Prepare the tube as follows:-
After wrapping the sharp end of the tube, wrap two layers of 2" Micropore
on the outside of the tube sticky side up. That takes moments only. Fit the
tube to the glans as above. Now when the shaft skin is rolled over the tube
it is being rolled onto sticky tape... far easier than that messy T tape
method where you had to be erect etc. Roll the skin halfway over the
micropore then wrap two layers of micropore on the top so it is half on the
shaft skin and half on the Micropore sticky side out. The foreskin thus has
1" of Micropore adhering to its inside surface and 1" on its outer surface.
Wrap a further layer of Micropore half on the aluminium and half on the
outer Micropore layer. When you pull on the tube you pull on both the
inside skin and outside skin simultaneously so theoretically double
progress. Progress is unlikely to double in reality.
For those wedded to having foam pads inside bearing on the glans so adding
inner tension, this is easily possible too. A plug is necessary to hold it
in ( perhaps the original pill tube plastic cap ). If this is done elastic
attachment is then best achieved by piercing the tube either side and
treading a wire right through and then loop it through the elastic. Again I
warn on stretching the inner part too much, you may end up always
uncomfortable or sacrifice some of those few remaining sensor cells to
desensitization by too much exposure.
I see no reason why an uneven cut cannot be evened up by selectively
rolling the skin forward so the side needing more growth cannot be
favored. The metal tube will ensure tensions stay as planned.
There is no apparent tendency to stretch the foreskin too much by keeping
it open over the pill tube. It normally is stretched over a glans and the
tube is no bigger. I found that once I had gained overhang the end closed
over very tightly and loosened off only in a hot shower or if aroused. It
acts and looks very natural but always needs a tug forward after a pee due
to having no frenulum to do it for me. With 3/4" overhang coverage is reliable
and I have slight coverage when erect. I would not want any more.
Feeling is huge now, I literally had none before but I believe from
comparing notes with intact mates that I still have a mere fraction of what
god meant me to have, but regardless it was worth the effort.
Three weeks after first starting taping and keeping the glans moist, I shed
skin and gained some glans feeling. Three months later I again shed skin
but now from the sulcus. It suddenly became almost to sensitive to touch.
Simultaneously smegma appeared and its slight tackiness made each movement
of the new foreskin back off the glans a most remarkable and previously unknown
experience, easily better than any other gain. This feeling is another reason why
I believe the sulcus should not be stretched any but only be pulled forward enough
so all of it can rest against the glans mucosa.
Four months after I finishing taping I have not lost even a fraction of any
coverage but have had feeling continue to grow as has my self esteem.
Finally on clothing, never previously a fan of boxer shorts, they were
found necessary in taping as the fly on anything else was far too tight and
hurt my shaft skin from the pressure of being continuously pulled against
it. Brief leg holes were too tight. The extra ventilation of boxers around
the testicles does wonders to libido and the satin boxers feel great now
that I have glans protection. Incidentally I have more glans feeling now
through my new foreskin than I ever had when exposed.
The new foreskin seemed a little thick initially but is now definitely
thinning and is not much thicker than a real foreskin now. My doctors have
been amazed at my success and I believe you will be too if you stick at it.
The first two weeks are the worst. After that you need the pill tube to
protect your feeling gains until you have enough skin to do it for you.
Believe me, those who say circumcision has little effect on a man have never
experienced the other state.
There are many people who have tried my methods and swear by their
effectiveness. Readers should note that the above are my own experiences
and thoughts only and were submitted only to guide others in polarizing
their own thoughts on undoing the senseless damage done to their bodies by
I will accept no responsibility for any adverse results to people who
follow the above and I advise that the above method may not suit all
The Sides Pill Tube Method
From: David Butler <firstname.lastname@example.org>
For what it's worth, here's my contribution to explaining the "Bill
Sides Pill Tube Method":
1. Firstly, don't worry about diagrams etc., the important thing is, as
the Nike ad said, "just do it".
2. Go to a pharmacy and buy an aluminium Berocca or Vitamin C container,
or just get a plastic 35 mm film container. Empty toothpaste tubes work also.
3. Remove the contents of the "pill tube", and slide the empty tube over
the end of a piece of 1" dowel to make it easy to work on.
4. Drill a 3/4" hole centrally in the end of the pill tube, then get a
hacksaw and cut around the circumference of the tube 2" from the drilled
end, so that you end up with 2 halves, either of which can be used for
restoring (I prefer the drilled half, because it makes less of a mess
when you pee).
5. Smooth the cut surface with emery paper, and stick two layers of 2"
3M Micropore over the smoothed cut surface (1" on the outside and push
the other inch inside the tube) to prevent any injury to your penis.
6. Buy a box of 25 mm (1") "Fold Back Clips" at a stationer's and remove
the Omega shaped chrome-plated part from the black part.
7. Squeeze the two ends of this clip part together and insert them into
the hole you drilled in the end of the "pill tube" and presto, you have
your completed "pill tube restorer kit"!
The Sides Pill Tube Method
From: Rick Weigel, email@example.com
A lot of guys keep asking for pictures of the pill tube method, and a lot
get irritated when Bill says just try it and you'll see
how it works. But I've found that he's right; the instructions may not be
specific, and I was unsure how to do it at first, but after I actually
tried it, it all became self-evident and worked without much fuss.
It's important that the tube fit snugly over your glans; if it's snug,
the tube stays in place while you apply the tape, and everything goes
much easier. I really have to squeeze my glans and kind of wiggle/cram
the tube down over it until the edge of the tube reaches the sulcus
(approximately); you may need to put a little hand lotion inside the end
of the tube the ease it over your dickhead.
Then roll up the skin over the tube as far as you comfortably can, and
then tape up; place approximately one inch of tape on your skin and one
inch on the tube. If you want to tape at your POE, mark it before you
apply the tube, roll the skin up the tube until the marked POE line
reaches the edge of your rolled-up skin, and tape there. But don't worry
too much -- it doesn't seem to matter if you're off a bit one way or the
I also find it easier to apply the tape if I first cut it into 1x2 inch
strips; there's less bunching up of tape, and it's easier to keep things
equalized as you tape around the tube.
After the tape is applied, I rub it onto my skin and the tube well to
ensure adhesion. I also wait at least 30-60 minutes before I strap up and
apply tension; tape will stick better if you wait a bit before you start
pulling on it.
Bill says to change the tape every day, but I find that it lasts at
least two (and sometimes up to four) days, before it starts coming loose.
I've had no problems with it becoming unsanitary.
I urge everyone to try the pill tube method. It really is very
comfortable and hassle-free. Don't think you have to wait until you can
see some pictures of how it's done; just try a dry run without the tape,
and you'll learn how it works. It's not the end of the world if you screw
the process up the first couple of times. It soon becomes VERY easy to
do -- much simpler than t-tapes. I can comfortably keep the tension at a
level of at least two pounds with no problems, and I've seen more
progress in the last week than I'd seen in the last four months with
t-tapes. (I'd reached some sort of plateau, and nothing had been
happening until I switched.)
Top of Page
Toothpaste Tube for the Pill Tube Method
A plastic toothpaste tube is just the right softness to use with the pill
tube method. You can shape the inner edge easily with scissors, and the
whole thing lies flat (folds actually) during use. The travel sizes tubes (not
the tiny ones) are a good 1.5" diameter and about 4 inches long. The
plastic is soft and takes the suspender clip and Micropore tape very nicely.
I'm not sure about long term results, but short term, the stretch is good and
it's very comfortable with no embarrassing bulge.
Regarding the pinching with the toothpaste tube (T-tube), use the round end
for you and the flat end for the clip. :-) Of course any soft plastic tube
will work fine (eg lotion tubes) and the tendency to flatten can be
counteracted to varying degrees by stuffing soft foam inside. Another nice
thing about the soft plastic is that the suspender clip's teeth make
indentations if you squeeze it hard and this helps keep it in place.
Shaping the proximal end of the tube with scissors for a custom fit is also
Top of Page
Plastic Drain Tubes for the Pill Tube Method
From: Rick Weigel, firstname.lastname@example.org
I finally tried the pill tube method. I'm finding it more comfortable than t-tape,
faster to put on than t-tape, and it is MUCH simpler to urinate. I have a few
tips on the subject:
- Use 1+1/4 outside diameter plastic drain tubes. Their inside diameter
is a hair over 1 inch. They come in a variety of lengths, and can be
easily cut to any customized length you want. They are much
thinner-walled and more flexible than regular pvc pipe. You can find them
in the plumbing section of stores, and they shouldn't cost more than a
couple of dollars.
- If you have access to a heat gun (the kind made to strip paint), you
can use it to slightly melt and smooth the edges on the pipe. Be careful,
though; you only need it to hold it near the edges for a few seconds.
Otherwise, fine sandpaper should give you a smooth enough edge.
- I've drilled a line of small holes around the strap end of the tube so
I can insert the wire from a large binder clip at a variety of angles
depending upon which direction I want to tug -- over the shoulder, down
the leg, or around the waist.
- For "neatness" during urination, slip a length of
1-inch-outside-diameter plastic tubing (it comes wrapped on wheels in
most hardware departments; you buy it by the foot) inside the stretching
tube. Make sure that the plastic tubing is long enough to stick out a bit
past the end of the stretching tube. Now your urine won't spray out all
the holes you've drilled around the outer end of the stretching tube for
- Make sure that you clean off all the old tape residue from the tube
before re-using it; if you don't, the new tape will come loose much
sooner than you might like. Rubbing alcohol should remove most of the
residue, but if it doesn't, try citrus oil hand cleaner, vegetable oil,
or even WD-40. Be sure to wash the resulting oily film off the plastic
tube with soap and water after using these items. To ensure that the tube
is completely oil-free, give it a swipe or two with rubbing alcohol after
you've washed it with soap and water.
- If the tube is fairly snug on your glans while you're taping up, it is
easier to apply the tape. I really have to struggle to squeeze my glans
into the tube, but once there, it stays in place for taping ease. And as
soon as I apply tension with the strap, the glans slides out of the tube.
Top of Page
Pill Bottle Pill Tube Method
From: Leo Freyer <email@example.com>
I've made a couple PT's. Here's how I made mine.
For the PT I used plastic pill bottles from the pharmacy (I take meds
regularly and have a supply of empties). The bottles are about 1" in
diameter and 2-1/2" long. The wall of the bottle is thin... perhaps 20 to
30 thousandths. The Plastic is tinted a tan color, but is clear enough to
see though it.
To make a tube from the bottle, I ground off both ends (closed bottom end
and cap end) on my shop bench grinder leaving just a straight tube. A very
light pressure is used when grinding because the plastic tends to melt or
flow a little while being ground off. I used a razor knife to trim off any
rough sections and then sandpaper for smoothing. A hand towel was then
used to polish the ends. I simply rubbed the rough towel cloth on the plastic
till it smoothed some.
For the attachment I used a paper clip. The paperclip was formed into a
round handle like you see on a metal bucket, and was attached the same way.
To attach the handle I made holes in the plastic tube. To do that I first
made a tool to melt holes in the plastic tube. I took a paper clip and
straightened out one end. The remaining bent portion was used as a grip to
To make the holes, I heated the straight end of the paperclip tool with a
cigarette lighter till it was red hot. (This only took a few seconds.) Then
I touched the hot end to the plastic and melted a hole through. The wire
was twisted back and forth slightly so the plastic would not stick to it as
it cooled. (experiment on a spare bottle before hand to get the hang of it)
I positioned the hole about 3/16" back from the end. Then reheating the
wire, I made a second hole half way around the tube from the first, on the
opposite side. Any sharp protrusions left in the plastic after melting the
holes were trimmed off or sanded smooth. If the plastic forms a small
rounded lip around the hole during melting, it can be left there as extra
support for the handle.
To fashion the handle, I straightened the wire of another paper clip. Then
I used the plastic tube as a form to make a curve in the wire that would be
the handle. I held one end of the wire against the side of the plastic tube
and bent the paperclip wire around the tube a little more than half way.
This formed a half-circle in the wire that was slightly larger than the
Then I cut off the wire so the ends went about 1/2" or more past the holes I
had melted into the tube. I used pliers to bend the ends of the wire in
towards each other. This made a large "C" shape with short end sections
bent over pointing at each other. Then I inserted the ends into the holes.
This gave me a handle similar to the handle on a metal bucket. It would
pivot back and forth. The idea is to make the handle slightly larger than
the cylinder so it will swing well out of the way past the end of the tube.
The handle on my PT actually rests back about 1/2" from the end on the
outside of the tube when I swing it off to the side. The idea here is to
allow the handle to be moved out of the way when peeing out the end of the
The round shape of the wire handle is not critical. It could be fashioned
as a square shaped "C" as well as a round shaped "C". Either would work.
It could also be viewed as a U shape rather than a C shape if you see it
It took me a few tries to make a handle that was large enough to swing well
out of the way. So have a few extra paperclips available for trial and
Once I was satisfied that the handle would swing well to each side and clear
the end of the tube, I bent the ends that were inserted into the tube out
toward the handle. The ends of the wire handle should be bent enough to be
out of the way, but not so tightly that they hinder the handle from swinging
freely or crack the plastic tube. The plastic tube walls are thin, so be
careful when bending the wire while it is in place. Practice bending the
wire with a spare bottle before hand if needed.
At first I was concerned that the wire ends would poke the end of my penis
when I used the PT. But after trying it on, I found that the handle was
well away from the glans and the direction of pull when in use is away from
the penis. So there is no chance of getting snagged.
When I was finished making the PT it looked like a very tall skinny bucket
with the bottom missing.
For the stretcher, I use one strap from a pair of suspenders. It already
has the alligator clips attached and has a built-in length adjustment. One
of the alligator clips is simply clipped to the handle of the PT.
To anchor the other end of the suspender strap I have used two methods --
waist and shoulder. I suppose it could be ran down the leg as well, but I
haven't tried that.
For the waist I wrap the suspender strap around my back at the waist and
then around the thigh on that side. The alligator clip is clipped to the
strap after it is around my thigh.
The other way goes over my left shoulder, down my back, under the right arm
and is clipped in front to the suspender strap somewhere between chest and
belly. Where ever it is comfortable. Obviously you can go over the right
shoulder and under the left arm as well.
The end of the suspender that has the length adjustment is attached to the
PT. That way the adjuster is by your belly and can easily be adjusted.
Either way, everything lies quite flat against the body without much in the
way of unsightly bulges.
Another method I have thought of but not tried yet, is to NOT trim off the
end of the pill bottle that has the cap. The handle could be made large
enough to clear the cap. The cap could then be used to hold in packing.
This would necessitate both the cap and alligator clip being removed to pee.
Having the end closed off by the cap would trap moisture inside, since the
penis closes of the other end.
Alternately, the handle could be attached directly to the cap. The cap and
clip could then be removed as a single unit to pee. Drilling a hole through
the top of the cap and using an Omega shaped handle might work for this. Or
a paper clip handle could be made, holes melted through the top of the cap,
and the ends of the handle bent over on the inside of the cap to secure it.
The drilled hole in the cap would allow for some ventilation inside the
Having a cap on the PT would make for a slight bulge if worn under tight
I have also found that a weight can be attached to the handle instead of the
suspender strap if that method is preferred.
I hope this explanation was clear enough to understand. It took me about as
long to type this as it did to make my PT. :-)
Top of Page
DEVICE PROS AND CONS
Pros and Cons of the Pill Tube
Pill Tube Advantages (major)
*Tape is only on outer skin so there is much more untaped inner skin to
stretch with packing material, especially for high POEs or short shafts.
*Tape is only on outer skin so fewer skin tears should result.
*Tape doesn't slip off skin with heat, moisture, uneven circumcisions, or
oily skin as much as t-tape.
Pill Tube Advantages (minor)
*No t-tape to make.
*Easier to install, erection is not required.
*Can use higher elastic strap forces if desired.
Pill Tube Disadvantages
*Daily removal and reinstallation of the pill tube is recommended to avoid
possible sores due to circulation loss of pinched skin (poor installation).
*Bigger bulge in your pants.
*I don't recommend this as a night time method until sufficient skin has
been grown to accommodate nocturnal erections. Others disagree.
Pros and Cons between T-tape and Pill Tube
From: Leo Freyer <firstname.lastname@example.org>
T-Tape - requires an erection to apply
Pill Tube - can be applied while soft
TT - time to make tapes and apply
PT - shorter taping time - just needs a single wrap of tape
TT- longer to undo to pee
PT - depending on attachment (handle, clip, string, etc) faster to undo to
pee or can pee with it in place
TT - must find POE to tape
PT - tape can be applied nearly anywhere along the shaft skin... tape can be
placed behind POE only or on both sides like the TT
Personally I like the PT. It seems to take less time to install and remove
and peeing is much easier and quicker.
Top of Page
From: "Arthur Gibson" <email@example.com>
The RECAP-EZ is a device designed to assist those who are interested in
non-surgically restoring their foreskin. It is based upon the medically
proven fact that human skin will expand, if placed under moderate,
prolonged tension. There is a subtle difference between stretching and
expansion. Stretching the skin is covering a larger area with the same
amount of skin. Skin expansion actually results in creating more skin.
Expanding the skin requires time, patience, and dedication to routine.
The RECAP-EZ works like this: The flaccid penis is inserted through a
base ring which has a shaft attached. When the base ring rests against
the pubic area, the shaft lays along side of the penis, like a splint. A
plastic cap, which is permanently attached to the outside of the shaft
via a section of latex elastic, is placed on the glans. The skin of the
penis is gathered up over the edge of the cap. A specially designed
retaining ring is placed over the gathered skin and the cap. When
tension is applied via the elastic, an incredibly effective and
comfortable grip is created. Tension is maintained by stretching the
elastic out to the end of the shaft where it is placed in a notch there.
Once again, moderate tension over a long period of time is necessary to
effect the desired skin expansion. Extreme tension will result in
shortened wearing time. Tension is adjustable by altering the length of
the shaft and/or the latex tubing. Experience has shown that about three
inches of shaft must extend beyond the end of the penis to provide
adequate room for stretching the latex tubing.
When the tension is moderate, the RECAP-EZ can be worn for hours by most
people without discomfort. Keep in mind that everyone is unique, and
comfortable wearing time may vary. It can be worn under loose clothing
without being conspicuous - either down a pants leg, or directed upward
over the abdomen. When directed upward, the waistband of your underwear
and/or your belt maintain the device in position.
If you are interested in trying the RECAP-EZ, send $50.00 cash, money
order, or cashiers check to:
P.O. Box 0431
Alpine, CA 91903-0431
Art will buy the materials, make a RECAP-EZ for you, and mail it to you
via Priority mail. Please send an e-mail advising that your order is in
the mail. Also include the following information about yourself:
1. Your age?
2. Were you circumcised as a child or as an adult?
3. The length of your flaccid penis, stretched, from pubic bone to the
end the glans?
4. The circumference of your flaccid penis.
IF FOR ANY REASON YOU ARE NOT SATISFIED WITH THE RECAP-EZ,
RETURN IT WITHIN THREE DAYS OF THE DAY YOU RECEIVE IT. YOUR
MONEY, LESS SHIPPING EXPENSES, WILL BE REFUNDED.
Directions for Use of RECAP-EZ
With your penis in a flaccid state, insert it through the base ring.
Firmly seat the base ring against your pubic area.Place the cap on the
glans. While gathering the skin with one hand, push the cap in the
direction of your pubic area. The object is to force the skin up over
the edge of the cap. You should be able to conceal the cap inside the
gathered skin-tube of your penis. While maintaining your gathered skin
in this position, place the retaining ring over the gathered skin and
cap. Now, direct your attention to inside the retaining ring. You should
see a uniform fold of skin, captured inside the retaining ring. For a
very positive grip, more skin can be gathered inside the retaining ring.
While continuing to maintain downward pressure with the retaining ring,
reach inside the retaining ring with the tip of your index finger, and
push the fold of skin toward the center of the cap until you have
completely filled the retaining ring. Some experimentation will be
necessary to determine just how much skin will give you a comfortable
grip. Now, when you pull on the tubing, you see how the cap and ring
grip the future foreskin of your penis. Maintain the retaining ring in
position with one hand. With the other hand, stretch the tubing out to
the end of the shaft and place it in the notch there. Gradually release
the hand that has been holding the retaining ring in position.
You now have the RECAP-EZ in position.
With this device, you have the ability to put much more tension on the
tube-skin of your penis than is necessary for skin expansion.You may be
tempted to over-do it, thinking that you will progress faster.
>From my experience, I have come to believe that moderate tension over a
longer period of time is better that heavy tension. Too much tension
will reduce the time that you can comfortably wear the device.
Moderation and persistence will produce the results that you are looking
for. You may adjust the tension by altering the length of the tubing.
Experience has shown that you need about three to four inches of shaft
extending beyond the end of your penis,when the device is attached, to
allow enough distance to stretch the tubing. You can also adjust the
tension somewhat by simply pulling more of the tubing through the notch
to the outside of the shaft, when the device is attached.
The cap and ring attachment method maintains its grip by grasping the
skin between the cap and ring. When the tension is moderate, the
pinching effect is slight and easily tolerated for hours. However, it is
advisable to check the device periodically to ensure that no damage is
done due to reduced blood flow. Occasionally releasing the tension and
allowing full blood flow to resume to the area seems to be advisable.
Should the pinching effect become intense, you should seek a private
place and release the tension. Your own comfort and safety must be
determined by experimentation.
When attached, the RECAP-EZ can be directed down a pants leg or upward
over the abdomen. When directed upward, the waistband of your underwear
can hold it in position. Try it both ways. I recommend changing the
position occasionally. You may also vary the location of the shaft in
relation to your penis. Try it over, under, and on each side of your
penis - whatever is comfortable and convenient for you.
You will find that this method gives you much more freedom than other
24/7 methods. It is a more aggressive method of applying tension. The
RECAP-EZ does not have to be worn constantly to achieve results. Your
penis does not have to be held captive for nearly twenty-four hours of
the day. The RECAP-EZ gives a whole new meaning to " FREE WILLIE "
The black rubber cover on the base ring gives you two layers of rubber
between your skin and the ring. The presence of the rubber does two
things. One, it provides some cushioning. Two, it prevents the loose
skin of the scrotum and lower abdomen from being drawn through the base
ring. Thus isolating the tension where you want it - in the penis
It is advisable to use a ring ( O-ring or other type ) to train your
stretched skin to remain forward over the glans when the RECAP-EZ is not
attached. If you allow the stretched skin to relax, it will recede
somewhat. A widely available, easy to use plastic ring can be found on
the neck of plastic beverage bottles. With a sharp knife, remove the
barbs from inside the ring to prevent skin irritation. Gather the skin
up over your glans with the thumb and index finger of one hand, while
placing the ring over the gathered skin with the other. These plastic
rings hold better than O-rings.
As far as maintenance is concerned, keep it clean and dry. Lubricants,
including natural body oils, will cause the retaining ring to slip, thus
loosing its grip. If, after many days of use, you notice slippage in the
retaining ring, wash the ring with dish-washing detergent to remove all
traces of oils.
Best of luck to you. May you "recover" quickly. Please keep me informed
of your progress.
From: Jack Adams, j adams <firstname.lastname@example.org>
The PUD is a great device, but it has serious limits. If you wear one at work,
you need to have a job where you are standing most of the time, as the PUD
only works if you are letting gravity pull the device down. I used one when I
first got started, and now use it attached to the T-tape during the day.
Taking the transpore tape on and off every day is a lot easier than other
types of tape, but keeping the t-tape made of Micropore on when using this
device is a lot better since you are tugging at the POE on both sides instead of
just one as the PUD was designed to do. The weight pulling straight down seems
to help the restoration process, and is a good break from the strap. At night I
wear a jock strap which I have cut out leaving only the waistband and leg straps,
attaching the elastic strap to the back of the jock strap. It is a lot more comfortable
than around your leg. The PUD is useless at night and should not be worn
when you are asleep. you can order one at <http://www.abode.com/>
AmericanBodycrafters <http://www.abode.com> http://www.abode.com. When you
work where it is hot and sweaty, it is very tough to stay with any kind of restoration
method, but it is worth it. I also tape a piece of an old paper towel roll to the outside
of this setup when I am working somewhere where you might accidentally hit your dick
on a sharp edge like a table top, etc. If you are using one of the smaller sizes, maybe
an empty toilet paper roll would fit.
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I think I started stretching about October of 1996, so I've been at it for about
15 months. I have really made a point of using either the plastic molded cones
or the PUD virtually 24 hours a day. If I absolutely have to lay off, then I use
an "O" ring to prevent any backsliding. So, In answer to your question of how
much time I actually spend, I have to say that in one form or another, about
24 hours a day, every day. I have never used a T tape of any kind. I really
started out taping foreskin to the plastic molded cones, first the shortest one
and then in time to the longest one. That avoided all the darn elastic straps
which just couldn't be used in my case. I could wear those cones day and night
and with caution built up my ability to hold considerable weight with the PUD
when I later started with it. I too have found the 20 oz PUD just about perfect,
although I now interchange with the GP 22oz. about half of the time. The GP is
nice because it is shorter than the other PUD and when you have a good overhang,
it looks and feel comfortable in loose clothing. Sure wouldn't look too cool in tight
jeans, at least to some observers! For what it's worth, I have exclusively used
different 3M tapes than you use. I have found that the 3M Transpore tape is great
in holding to the foreskin and can be torn in any direction you want, without scissors.
This is nice when you have to reapply away from home. I use the Transpore
tape exclusively with the PUD and I buy only the 2" width in both tapes.
With the PUD I put about 1/2 inch on the foreskin that is stretched over the PUD,
then the other 1 & 1/2 inches onto the PUD to hold it securely. I then take
about a 1" piece of Transpore and wrap it horizontally around the tape on the PUD
itself just as a precaution that it won't pull off the metal, which had happened before
I started this insurance policy taping. I now wear the PUD publicly and just don't
worry about what others might think. It looks like your penis and who's going
to ask anyway? I use the 3M Microfoam tape in part with the plastic cones. I place
a 2" square piece of it over the end of that part of the cone which is completely
buried in my foreskin, attaching just the edges on the foreskin circling right at the
front end. (I have first cut a small round hole in the center of it to permit urination
without removing anything.) Then, I use the 3M Transpore (not the Microfoam)
tape and encircle my foreskin as stretched over the top end of the plastic cone.
That holds the Microfoam tape in place because Microfoam is not as good at hanging
on by itself. However, Microfoam is a wonderfully soft tape and is extremely gentle
with your foreskin, leaving no tears or sores. I started out using paper tapes, but
found that they often cut or tore my foreskin, particularly sitting down and having to
move around a lot while in place. I have not had any sores or cuts since using this
regimen. Incidentally, Dave, I also had some considerable discomfort with cloth tape.
Both paper and cloth were a lot harder for me to use and when I got to 3M's Microfoam
and Transpore, my trouble ended and I have made really great progress in about 15 months
with full coverage flaccid and almost full erect. I'm just stretching for more overhang now.
I doubt if anyone seeing me now would guess I was every circumcised and the sensitivity,
as I'm sure you've found, is amazingly increased. I have found that just about any of
the water based lubricants work fine to protect the glans from the PUD and the plastic
cones. None may be needed in most cases, but it is again a good bit of extra protection.
I don't know how much this adds, but thought I would at least share my own experience.
HOWEVER, I am not in the least putting down "D" Evans T tape system which has proven so
successful for tons of stretchers. I just could not use the tapes in my personal lifestyle
without great difficulty. The PUD and plastic cones fit my needs perfectly. Bob.
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Still More PUD
From: "W. David Cook" <2Cookies@compuserve.com>
For those of you who wanted information about the PUD--
American Bodycrafters, Inc.
Huntington Beach, CA 92615
Questions on ordering only call 800-628-1852
Info/help line call 714-374-0644
Note that the link to American Bodycrafters on Derrick Townsend's webpage
is not correct...instead you just get an advertisement for "erotic
There are several sizes, and you might want to call the info/help line to
determine the best diameter for you. There are weights available from 10 to
20 ounces (maybe more). I recommend using the 18 or 20 oz. size for best
tugging results. However, if you are just starting, you may need to use a
lighter weight until your physiology can tolerate the heavier weight. I had
to start with an 8 oz.
Also, when I started, I had insufficient foreskin, even when flaccid, to use
the PUD. I had about 1/4 inch (when doubled over to pull over the PUD). To
use the PUD, I invented an "extension", made of a material called
"shrink-fit" used in making electrical cables, which worked well, even with
almost no shaft skin to work with. If anyone wants information on this
extension, I will be happy to provide information and fabrication
I now use T-tape for periods when I cannot use the PUD, and my tugging time
is probably about evenly divided between the PUD and the T-tape. I find the
PUD to be more comfortable, but you have to allow it to "hang" in order to
get real tugging. Hang is sufficient when standing, or sitting with the PUD
hanging down in front of the seat...this requires a couple of pillows on the
back, and shorts or loose pants.
The PUD works as well as any other tugging method, and the results appear to
be as permanent as any other method. My progress has been slow, about 50%
over 4 years, but that is mainly because of the low "tugging time". For the
first two years, I probably averaged about 40-50 hours per week, with 8 oz.,
and then 12 oz. PUDs. The last two years I have averaged about 70 hours per
week with a 18 oz. PUD. Now with T-tape when I previously used only a
retainer ring, I am tugging about 140 hours per week. During a few periods
when I had to stop taping for up to 10 days, I did not notice any significant
loss of skin. Remember, that temporary stretching will show a loss when
you stop tugging, but permanent (new skin cell growth, which occurs over
longer periods of time) will not go away when tugging stops.
TAPING ON THE PUD
I have found the best tape to use with the PUD is 3M Micropore paper tape.
It sticks best to the skin (but must be kept dry), but not so well to the
PUD. So I use 1" paper tape, with about 3/4" on the skin, and 1/4" on the
PUD. Then I use the plastic or cloth tape wrapped tightly over the PUD and
1/4" paper tape margin on the PUD, which keeps the paper tape from pulling
off the PUD. I have found that a little aloe vera gel between the glans and
the PUD makes a comfortable lubricant,( and it may also help the skin), or
possibly a film of hydrocortisone ointment.
I hope this is a help to anyone contemplating or using the PUD.
This posting is just to pass on a good idea on combining T-tape and PUDs,
which I got from Jonathan Nyman, a member of this list.
His suggestion was to T-tape as usual...then insert the PUD into the T-tape,
and tape the T-tape extension around the PUD.
Great idea! I can use the T-tape when not able to use a PUD, then simply
insert and tape the PUD when I can use it, without changing the tape.
1) It simplifies the taping and retaping routine.
2) The PUD does not pull off, as often happens after several hours of
3) The T-tape allows me to make use of the POE to get most effective
4) The arrangement stretches the shaft skin outward as in an erection, and so
relieves the "pinching" feeling of the taped shaft skin which I get with
extended T-tape use. So it even improves the overall comfort level.
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Home Made Silicone O Rings
From: Rio Cruz <email@example.com>
Since I declared myself restored in Dec. '97, I have still been using O rings
at night cuz I sleep nude and the turning about in the bed uncovers the
glans at times so the O ring helps keep everything intact. The problem is
that they are relatively narrow, with little give, and in the morning there is
a red ring and slight depression in the skin where the ring was. I don't
know whether or not this is a problem but in order the eliminate the possibility
I have started making my own, thicker and flatter O rings out of silicone
aquarium sealant... the same thick, gooey stuff that you squeeze out of
the tube for smoothing the end and body of the foam cylinders.
Anyway, what I do is go to the hardware store or lumber yard and buy a wooden
dowel the diameter of the ring I want to make. I take it home, cut off a piece
about 4 or 5 inches long, wrap a piece of single ply toilet paper once around the
dowel, tape it in place and then squeeze a good thick bead of silicone out and
around the dowel to form the ring. I then wet my finger and tap all around the
silicone bead to sort of flatten it out a bit... maybe on the order of 3/8 to 1/2 inch
wide and then let the silicone cure for as least 24 hours or more depending on how
thick the ring is. Mine are about 1/8" thick or so. Some one suggested that boiling
it once it has set up helps speed the curing process. Sounds reasonable. Once it's
cured it easily comes off the dowel because of the toilet paper which you can then
either leave on or wash off with warm water.
Since these O rings are flatter than the ones you buy in the store (you can make
them as wide and thick as you want) and they have a little more flexibility to them,
they do not leave the red ring and depression around my dick like the others do plus
the silicone is easier on the skin and should not cause an allergic reaction for those
who are sensitive to rubber.
So for those who use O rings for one reason or another, give these a try and see
how you like them and please keep the rest of us apprised of your efforts and how
they work out for you.
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More Home Made O Rings
From: "W. David Cook" <2Cookies@compuserve.com>
This O-ring is easy to make out of inexpensive materials, and has stretch enough
to make it comfortable to wear.
A fabricated O-ring that works:
I tried all kinds of store-bought o-rings, tape rings and strings without
much satisfaction. This one takes a few minutes to fabricate, but it can
be made to your desired size. You may want a tight one for use during the
day, and a loose one for sleeping.
I use 1/4 inch wide polyester elastic, available from any department store
sewing department. (It comes packaged in lengths of 4-6 yards for about
$2.00.) I tried widths from 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch, and found this size to
be a good compromise between tension and comfort. Cut the elastic to the
desired length, loop it to make a ring with about 3/8" overlap, and secure
the desired diameter with a stitch of thread. Then tape the junction with
cloth surgical tape (cloth seems to work best) to give a smooth finish over
the junction. (The loop of thread is not really necessary, but will keep
the loop from stretching out so much with continued use.)
With brief type underwear, the loop will generally remain on indefinitely.
A high level of activity may cause it to work off after awhile, but it
remains inside the underwear. For urinating, either the loop can be
removed, or the foreskin pulled back with the loop in place (depending on
the relative size, it will stretch with the foreskin when it is retracted.)
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Commercial O Rings
These can be found in almost any hardware store, usually in the plumbing department.
They come in a variety of sizes and they are usually made of black rubber.
There's also a company called Cut/Uncut that sells silicone O rings as a restoration
device. O rings aren't a very efficient way to restore, but if you have $18 just
dying to be spent, give them a try at:
However, Fergus J Lorber <firstname.lastname@example.org> says: What they send you is
five dark orange (almost brown) rather hard silicone o-rings with inside
diameters of 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", 7/8" and 1". The material diameter is approx 9/64".
Just a little over 1/8". Cost is $15 plus $3 S&H. They include an offer to send
five of one size for $10. I returned them and got my money back less S&H.
If you want similar o-rings go to Pep Boys or Trak Auto (i'm in the
Chicago area, but i believe both are national chains). In their small
parts section they have O-TITE! brand of buna-n o-rings in 1/16", 3/32",
1/8" and 3/16" material diameters with inside diameters ranging from
about 1/4" to 3". Cost is about $1.60 to $2.oo per package of from 3 to
6 depending on the size.
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From: Rio Cruz <email@example.com>
Since making this original post last year, hundreds of tuggers have begun
packing their stretching devices with foam cylinders as well as all kinds of
other stuff to help accelerate skin growth. Packing seems to speed skin
expansion on the one hand, and ligament or connective tissue repositioning
on the other. In other words, the two major areas of foreskin restoration.
The method is a combination of foam "cone" (actually a foam cylinder) and
t-tape + elastic strap. The idea is to help maintain constant tension on the
inner and outer foreskin for maximum growth, and to help speed ligament or
connective tissue repositioning which is necessary for permanent coverage
with the new foreskin.
We have fashioned cylinders out of high-density foam rubber rated at least
at 3.00 lbs. per cubic foot-supposedly an industry standard--but there may
be foams of higher density. We would recommend higher density... maybe on
the order of 4 or 5 lbs per cubic foot if you can find it. The foam is the same
stuff that is used in high-density foam mattresses. So if you have a foam
mattress place in your area, check them out. Or the gray foam used to pack
electronic components and computers and things will work. Here at our place
we have a Pacific weight machine we use to work out with and it has the right
density foam cushions on the leg-lift bars and other parts for what we're doing.
It's about like those foam handle bar grips you can get for bicycles. If you can
find some of that some place, that should work swell. In other words, it's just
sort of a hunt and snatch sort of thing and there are all kinds of foam that will
work... if you can find it.
Anyway, make the cylinder about 3/4" to 1" in diameter and about 3 times as
long as the depth of your inner foreskin. For instance if, when you are taped
up with your t-tape and you stretch the new foreskin at the POE, stick one
of your fingers down into the skin tube that is formed, compress the head of
your dick a bit, and then measure from the tip of your finger to where the POE
was touching your finger. It doesn't have to be exact or anything but just a
general idea. Take that measurement and multiply it by 3 and that will tell you
how long to make the foam cylinder if you are using the 3.0 density foam. This
foam compresses down at about a 3 to 1 ratio. So if you have 2" of new inner
foreskin, for example, you would need a cylinder 6" long if it's made of 3.0
density foam. Higher density foam will compress down less so you won't need
to make as long a cylinder.
There are several ways of making the cylinders. I, myself, cut a rough 6"
long by 1" square rectangular block of foam out on a band saw and then
shape the cylinder on a circular sanding wheel. Others cut the block and
fashion the whole thing with an electric carving knife or razor blades or
etc. Whatever you have that works. The reason I call it a cylinder is
because that's what it is. It looks just like a foam weenie... pun intended.
You don't have to make it anything fancy. Just a long, blunt cylinder.
Cover one of the ends of the finished cylinder with a thin coating of silicone
to make it smooth. The silicone is just 100% silicone sealant, comes in a tube
and is used to seal aquariums, tile, tubs, whatever. You can get it at any
hardware store. Get the clear stuff. It also comes in various colors but don't
use them. Clear is best. It squeezes out of the tube very thick and sticky but
easy to work with and smooth if you wet your finger or stick or whatever you
use to smooth it with. A solution of water and soap-with lots of soap-works
well too. When it's dry, the silicone is flexible like rubber and easy on the skin.
In fact, there is a variant of this stuff that is used with burn victims and for
other skin-related matters. Maybe you should test for skin allergies or something.
I don't know. Just make sure it's 100% silicone sealant, the kind they use to seal
aquariums and you should have no problems. If it's non-toxic enough to use with
delicate tropical fish, it should be good enough for your dick. While the silicone is
still wet, sprinkle talcum powder on it. The powder adheres to the wet silicone
and when dry, makes it less likely to stick to your glans and helps protect against
abrasion. Let the silicone dry for about 24 hours to make sure it is good and cured.
You can also cover all but the last inch or so of the cylinder with silicone so that
it has more body and more spring and is smoother getting into the skin tube. And
since they have more spring, they can also be shorter. I have some cylinders that
are mostly covered with the silicone that I use during the day, and others that
only have silicone on the end. I prefer the ones with just the silicone on the ends
for night use since they have more give and allow for the expansion with nocturnal
woodies. If you use a cylinder mostly covered with silicone, leave the last inch or
so free from silicone. This will be up against where the tape connects to the inner
foreskin and will help wick off moisture for prolonged tape use. It will also make it
easier to close the t-tape up.
I use a different one every day, wash it with soap and water, squeeze out the
water and let it dry. By rotating them they last a long time (I've never worn one out)
and each one has plenty of time to dry before the next use. The ones covered in
silicone take longer to dry. I've been just washing off the silicone, trying not to get
water into the foam core and then using soap and water on the exposed foam at the
top. That works pretty well. But even if you do get water down into the foam, just
stand it upright to dry for a few days and the moisture wicks off.
If you are allergic to either the foam or the silicone, or have reservations about using
talcum powder for fear of cancer or other grim and grisly things you can take the
foam cylinder and insert it into an Avanti Condom before putting it down into the skin
tube instead of using either silicon or talcum powder. It goes in easier with talcum
powder but if you don't want to use talc you can use corn starch or Vagisil powder.
Vagisil is corn starch mixed with aloe, mineral oil and other lubricants and really works
pretty well. Of course, corn starch is organic so is not bacteria free. But if you are
reasonably clean and wash your dick etc. there should be no problems... especially
since the Avanti doesn't have little nooks and crannies for bacteria to hide in. The
Avanti Condoms are made of polyurethane and are designed specifically for people
who are allergic to rubber products. They have the added bonus of not breaking down
with oil based lubricants so if you use vitamin E oil or something on your new foreskin,
the Avanti won't break down. Just keep the oil away from the tape because it will eat
the adhesive and cause the tape to give way. Of course, if you are allergic to
polyurethane, well then... you're screwed!
Tape up with your favorite t-tape making sure you have the correct POINT OF
EQUILIBRIUM and all that good stuff. This is critical because if you don't have
the right POE the added tension created by the foam cylinder will make your dick
sore in short order and you'll end up with ulcerated skin!! Liberally sprinkle the
whole cylinder, your inner foreskin, and glans with talcum powder or corn starch
(I use a mixture of the two which works swell) and insert the cylinder into the skin
tube formed by the new foreskin... siliconized end first. Compress it down onto the
glans as far as it will compress. Close the flaps of the t-tape with the suspender
clip and strap assembly and voila. You will feel the added tension. The foam cylinder
acts like a spring to help provide this tension. It increases the tension on the new,
inner foreskin and also compresses the glans and the connecting ligaments that run
from the glans down to the groin area. This, we feel, helps stretch the connecting
tissues and trains them to stay forward. Plus there are other benefits as well. The
foam helps wick off moisture for longer tape life (unless you are using it together
with the Avanti Condom) and it helps keep the "lips" of the new foreskin from bunching
up at the POE and causing sores or other problems.
Richard Russell, "richard russell" <firstname.lastname@example.org> suggested using the closed
cell foam of Nerf Arrows in combination with t-tapes and straps. SH also uses closed
cell foam in combination with the Sides Pill Tube method. Others have reported using
toilet paper, wine corks, springs, spring loaded toilet paper rollers, OB Tampons and
all kinds of things limited only by imagination.
Somebody else said:
I have been looking for the Nerf Arrows that have been mentioned in this
group. I've not found the ones mentioned here but I did find an excellent
alternative at WalMart. It is from a bow and arrow set made by Tim Mee Toys.
It was $3.97 and has two "arrows" that are the Nerf like foam about 16" long
and 1 1/8" diameter. Unlike the Nerf arrows they are NOT hollow and do not
have fins. These things are perfect for restoration use. The best thing is
that extra arrows are available by mail. The package instructs to send $2.50
(for two arrows) to Processed Plastic Co, 1001 Aucutt Rd, Montomery, IL 60638,
Attn: Arrows. I expect this foam to be long lasting so two arrows should last
anyone a long time.
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This seems to be the tape of choice for most tuggers. It come in various
widths, the most available are 1" and 2". However, medical supply houses
often carry wider varieties.
3M's The main web page is - http://www.mmm.com/
They can be contacted online through their "contact" web page - it's an
online fill-in-the-blank form.
or at these addresses
3M Health Care
St. Paul, Minnesota 55144
E-mail Address for 3M Health Care: email@example.com
E-mail Address for 3M Company: firstname.lastname@example.org
An alternative to email if you are located in the United States or Canada
is to call, 1-800-3M-HELPS (1-800-364-3577) for questions you may have
about products, services, or technologies. 3M's Product Information
Center answers calls from 8:00am to 5:00pm Central Standard Time, Monday
Outside of the United States, check the URL
http://www.mmm.com/intl/index.html for your nearest customer service
center or call 1-612-737-6501.
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From: "J.Whitlock" <email@example.com>
I guess that I didn't get many converts to the Mefix Tape, for
everyone is still pushing the Micropore. I find 6in. wide Mefix
is extremely comfortable in use, it doesn't stick together like
Micropore does. I mean, when taking a leak, and trying to get the
tape to unstick from itself after removing the clip. Also,
there is never any pinching, being made of fabric. Above all, it
is cheap, and the method that I described previously, of embedding
a piece of string, stops the clip from pulling off.
Mefix is a fabric type adhesive tape with a paper backing.
It comes in lengths of 10 metres by 10, 15, & 20 cm in width. the
makers are 'SCA Molnlycke Clinical Products AB
S-435 35 Molnlycke, Sweden'. The UK price is 15cm =£8.02
20cm = £11.02. Which is about $13 & $18 US. Therefore; the cost
of one t-tape is, using 15cm. 8p UK or 13 cents US.
Being on the end of the queue when dicks were issued, I find 15cm
width OK, but for those with horse dicks, 20 cm might be
It is important to apply tension in the direction of its length.
The other way is very weak and will stretch.
My method of making them is to cut 4in off the roll, peel back
about 5/8in of backing from both long ends and apply a piece of
thin backing paper 1/2in wide to both exposed ends. Fold in half,
to mark the middle, and strip off the backing paper. Lay a piece
of string carefully across the fold and double the two halfs
together. Cut the notch as usual. This to all intents looks like
the 6in X 2in Micropore T-tape
To apply, remove one of the backing pieces, the piece that will
go on the body side of the POE. Get a boney and stick the t-t in
place. Now fold the leg back over the stuck piece and pull all of
your loose skin back towards the body as far as it will go, and
hold whilst you pull the backing paper from the other face
forward towards the glans then press the t-t in place.
The embedded string will prevent the clip from pulling off.
To remove, soak in water for a bit, and it comes away very
I find the advantages of using Mefix as follows;
a) Very comfortable.
b) Does not stick to its self.
c) Does not cause pinching from folds.
Etc., Etc., Etc.
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Hypafix and Rejuveness
From: Dahl <LATugger@aol.com>
The subject of Rejuveness came up at the most recent NORM So.Cal meeting.
From what we discussed it seems to be VERY similar to Hypafix, which many have
and/or are using, currently.
Besides sticking better, peeling-off better, and leaving almost no adhesive
residue, 2" wide Rejuveness tape comes with a paper peel-off backing that is
two piece. That is, the backing is two, 1" wide paper strips. A T tape can be
made in 20 seconds by cutting off two 6" pieces and removing one of the 1"
backing strips from each 6" tape . Press the exposed sticky surfaces
together, cut the notch and you have made a T tape in 20 secs. Rejuveness
tape makes the T tape method workable. The web site gives names and locations
of retail outlets. ReJuveness is a silicone sheeting used to reduce the visibility of
scars. The *tape used to apply it* is what we're interested in.
You can make the tapes at a 90 degree to the normal direction, but then you lose
the advantage of the tape allowing some stretching to the skin directly underneath.
Frankly, I think this is an advantage well worth losing a day or two, in terms of tape
Another consideration is to use the Rejuveness for the inner portion of the
tape (that which becomes the inner foreskin side) and micropore for the outer
portion. That allows the inner foreskin a little more stretching ability, and
gives a little more strength to the outer portion where there is more skin
available for expansion. I have had some success with doing the outer portion
set at a right angle, but it takes a LOT more time to make the tapes.
Frankly, I prefer changing tapes every day or so, anyway, so I'm not a fair
judge of this.
As for removing the tape(s) - try rubbing a little liquid hand soap (you don't
need the high powered citrus cleaner) into the tapes, let it soak in while you
shave, then wet it with water, take a shower, and things should peel off
pretty easily (this works for both HYPAFIX and Micropore - so I would presume
that Rejuveness would react similarly).
ON A PERSONAL NOTE: I've tried just about every variation from TnT to Pill
Tubes and still find that the t-tape (and for me the hybrid variety of
Micropore/HYPAFIX) to be the most comfortable, economical, and fastest to
get on and off comfortably.
The big advantage of a full Hypafix T-tape is that the tape does stretch, so
that the skin under the tape also gets stretching, subjecting more skin to the
stretching process. This is supposed to be the big advantage of Tegaderm (as
used in the T-n-T setup). I have also been trying Tegadern which works well
while it holds, but I have been getting only 4-20 hours of tugging with
Couple of things to do as you apply tape:
1- Clean and dry the skin well. A little rubbing alcohol on some cotton or a
wash rag over the area will remove any oil. (never mind that it burns like hell!)
2- Hopefully your tape is fresh. I never buy much ahead of my need in hopes
that the stuff at the pharmacy is new stock.
3- After you apply the tape, press it to the skin all around to make sure it's stuck
4- Don't apply tension for a few minutes to let it "set".
5- If it still fails after a few hours under tension, you can prime your skin with
Tincture of Benzoin. The Pharmacist should be able to find it for you.
If you do all of these things, you'll have the opposite problem;
getting the damn stuff OFF without damaging your skin. I soak in my hot tub
for 10 minutes and it comes off easy. Other things to try:
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Soap and Warm Water: The easiest is often the fastest... but not always.
Tea Tree Oil: (Editors Note: This info was submitted from Australia) The Tea
Tree oil is great for removing tape. I've been using tea tree oil for many years
for a variety of different things. Its also great for mosquito bites and wasp bites.
Citrus Oil: Citrus oil is also great for removing tape. I comes in several different
forms. The most available is in mechanics hand cleaners--be sure and read the
label to make sure it includes Citrus Oil, and don't get the kind with pumice in it.
Ouch! No matter what you do, there will be a residue left on the skin when you
pull the tape off. Obviously if you dissolve the adhesive, half will come off with
the tape and half will remain behind on your skin. Just apply more cleaner to the
residue and wipe off with a tissue or wash off with soap and water.
In the automotive section at Wal-mart, I found a product called Fast
Orange, made by Permatex. This is a citrus-based hand cleaner, with lots of
good stuff in it for your skin, like Corn Huskers Lotion, Lanolin, Aloe
Vera, Jojoba Oil, Vitamin E. It does not have pumice, which some of the
hand cleaners do.
There is also a product called De-Solv-It which contains citrus oil and which is
available at Walmart in the laundry cleaners section. This is used by many
tuggers with very satisfactory results. There's a new water-rinsable
formula that is much easier to clean from the skin after it does its job. It can
be identified by an orange banner across the label that says "Leaves no residue!
Won't stain light fabric or leave an oily film! Excellent for clothing...even skin and hair!"
Vegetable Oil: I read on Oliver Moses restore page that he used vegetable oil,
which most people have in the kitchen and use for cooking and making salad
dressings, I also used this and found it to be very successful. Rub it on, wait
a minute and wash it off, all clean. I have since changed to Micropore and
that washes off in the shower no problems.
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Point of Equilibrium or POE
The T-tape system places an equal tension on the inner and outer parts of the
foreskin. To do this it must be placed at the location which will be the precise tip
of the foreskin when it is foreword under tension. If it is applied to one side or the
other the tension will be higher on one side and lower on the other.
In the very beginning you may not have enough skin to have a POE. At that
point most men can apply the midline of the t-tape over the circumcision scar.
The POE is the point where tension on the outer developing foreskin is equal to the
tension on the inner foreskin. The way to find it is to grasp the shaft skin between
your thumbs and forefingers on the dorsal (top) side at a place about 1/4" to 1/2 "
or so back from the circ. scar. Use both hands. Pull the skin up so you have what
will be your new foreskin, apply as much tension as needed until the skin is stretched,
and then kind of roll the skin back and forth between your thumbs and fingers, pulling
on it as you do until you find the place where you can feel that the tension is equal on
both the inside and outside of the foreskin. That is the POE... Point of Equilibrium. You
may have to do this several times at first until you get a feel for it. Mark that point with
some nontoxic marker or other and then apply the middle of the t-tape there.
I hope this is clear. If it isn't or if you have others question feel free to ask.
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How To Measure Progress
From: "Richard Barndt" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
I will attempt to describe the method I use to measure the progress of my
foreskin restoration in a way that anyone, intact or cut, should be able to
follow. You will need a Taylor's tape (a cloth or vinyl flexible ruler) and
a water-based felt pen.
While flaccid, pull skin forward (away from the body) as far as comfortable.
If intact, you should be pulling from the ridged band (the "tip" of the
foreskin). If tightly cut, roll your fingers back and forth along the skin
until the tension seems equal on the inside and outside. You are pulling
shaft skin forward to simulate your missing foreskin. Mark the point with
the pen. (We restorers call this the Point of Equilibrium or POE). Relax
for a second, put down the pen and grab the Taylor's tape.
OK, now that you have a visible reference point, pull the skin from that
point until it is once again stretched as far as comfortable. Measure along
the top of the penis from the pubic bone to the mark you just made. I use
millimeters, because it is easier to get a consistent measurement that way.
You now have the outer measurement.
You may need to take a break at this point, with all this manipulation. I
found it easier to get consistent measurements when flaccid. Now it is time
to measure the inner skin. One of the following methods should cover all
1. Intact or restoring, skin can stretch beyond tip of glans
Place the end of the Taylor tape on the tip of the glans. Once again grab
the point you marked earlier and pull the skin as far forward as
comfortable. You now have the tip to POE measurement.
In order to make the intact and cut numbers meaningful when taken together,
there is one more measurement required. Measure from the tip of the glans
to the sulcus (the grove where glans meets inner skin). The sum of these
three measurements is your stretched skin length.
2. Cut or restoring, skin cannot stretch beyond tip of glans
Pull the skin back (towards your body) as far as comfortable from the point
you marked earlier. Measure from this point to the sulcus. The sum of
these two measurements is your stretched skin length.
Now, since these numbers will vary from one man to another, the stretched
skin length alone is not adequate for comparison. We need to compare the
ratio of stretched skin length to erect length. Get the firmest possible
erection. Measure along the top of the penis from the pubic bone to the
sulcus (easier to measure than to the tip).
Skin ratio = stretched skin / erect length
My values are 9.62" / 6.18" = 1.56
I would be interested in comparing with some of you intact guys, so I get a
better idea of how close I am to the end of my restoration effort!
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What Will It Look Like?
Q: I need some advice from an experienced restorer
I have been restoring 4.5 months and gained 2 inches of skin, sometimes I
get 1/2 coverage, sometimes it looks like an accordion of skin behind the
head. I figure i will have enough skin after another 2 or 3 inches to be
totally covered. My question is this, I almost have enough skin to be
covered now (i could be if i had a functioning frenulum and tapered end) I
worry that when I'm done the skin will still look like an accordion and only
cover the head due to the volume of skin I have. An intact guy doesn't have
this accordion look, he just has loose skin just the right size. After the
skin is used to staying over top will it loose the accordion look and just
A: Every man is very concerned about this at your stage. There is nothing to
worry about at al. You are going to end up with a foreskin so good only your
urologist will know for sure!
There is a slight swelling of the skin due to the stress applied to it. It
makes the skin look thick and floppy. It prevents the foreskin from closing
around the glans and tapering. You don't need a frenulum to keep the
foreskin foreword. There is connective tissue between the foreskin and inner
shaft that will re-position and keep the foreskin foreword.
Just keep expanding your skin. One thing you need to be aware of is shrinkage
once you finish your restoration. After long, hard tugging it's a bummer to see
all the long, hard work shrink back. Unfortunately, there will be anywhere from
about 10% to 25% or so shrinkage once you stop tugging. That's because when
the skin is stretched long and hard like we do in order to stimulate it to grow new
skin, the cells also elongate due to this stretching and the skin swells somewhat
because of the stress it's under. Once you stop tugging, the cells will return to
their original round shape and the swelling will go down so there will be a visible
loss of length. You may find that your skin is sore, too. More sore than when you
were tugging. The soreness will go away and the shrinkage will occur over the
course of anywhere from a few weeks to several months. It just depends on your
skin. But what you end up with is the new skin you have been growing... which is
PERMANENT. This just means you have to grow more skin than seems apparent
when you are in the stretching mode. Fun galore!
What I did and what others have also found effective, is once you get the skin
to the visibly right length, stop tugging for several weeks or months, let the skin
normalize, and then decide how much more tugging you will have to do to get
the permanent results you want. The break will do your mind and your dick a lot
of good, allow both you and your skin to gather strength, and give you momentum
for the end game. I reached this point after about a year of full-time 7/24 tugging.
After a few weeks off, the skin had shrunk back far short of where I wanted it to be.
It was kind of depressing to see that. But, it also showed me how far I had come
and that gave me a positive boost that the process actually does work. Another six
months and I reached my goal... permanently.
Oh, and another thing... the issue of overhang and taper at the end keeps coming
up with guys worried that their skin opening is going to be too wide and look all
weird and ugly etc. In order for your opening to grow new lateral skin you will have
to stretch the opening LATERALLY with the same amount of tension, for the same
amount of time, as you are now doing lengthwise. That's just the way new skin grows.
You are not going to be growing lateral skin to form a big gaping hole by tugging
lengthwise the way we do. Just watch and wait and you will see that you had nothing
to fear or worry about. You are not going to add any new lateral skin stretching the
way we do. It's just not going to happen. It can't.
The one thing to remember about your overhang and the opening is that because of
our, uh... "surgery," the ridged band is gone, sliced away with the butcher's knife.
Bye, bye, kiss it good bye! Therefore, there is nothing to keep the opening tightly
closed. It's always going to be a bit looser than the natural foreskin with the ridged
band intact. BUT, fortunately, the dick skin is very sensitive to heat and cold. Once
you are finished tugging and the skin is out over the tip of your glans with a nice 1"
or so overhang, it will be away from the warmth of your shaft and glans, get colder,
and will contract in on itself to keep warm. Eventually, the skin will even thin out a
bit and get even tighter. This, together with the temperature mechanism of contraction,
will work sort of like the ridged band and will keep everything nice and cozy and looking
oh so cool! Very foxy! You just have to make sure you have a good overhang for this to
happen and all will be swell.
Many of you can expect to get really, really tired of this process! You can't wait to get
it over with! It's long and boring and stupid and a pain in the ass! You'll get pissed reading
all the cheery posts from guys telling what fantastic speed and coverage they're getting
and it will drive you nuts. That's the way it was for me, at least. The whole process is an
exercise in patience and perseverance... two qualities I personally have very little of.
So... if I can do it, YOU can do it! Just grit your teeth, find that masochistic streak you
never knew you had, keep tugging and sooner or later you'll have a really swell, new
foreskin. Just cuter than hell!
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At some point in tugging, many guys are afraid they are going to end up with a lot
of hair on their shaft once they are restored. Put your mind at ease! You are NOT
going to end up with hair on your shaft if you did not already have hair on your
shaft before you started restoration! That's NOT the way it works. Not only that,
but if you did have hair on your shaft before restoration, chances are you will have
less or none when you are done restoring.
I suspect the reason guys think they are going to end up with hair creeping up their
shaft is because they intuit that what we are doing is stretching out the old skin,
including the skin with hair at the base, to cover the glans. Eventho intellectually they
have been told that this is not the way it works, every time you tape up and stretch
the skin forward you see the base skin and hair brot forward up the dick shaft and you
think that is what it's going to look like when you are done. It's not! You are not stretching
the skin to cover the glans. We are stretching the skin to place it under tension which
stimulates NEW skin growth. The new skin is what will be covering your glans. Not the
old, hairy skin stretched up to cover it.
The skin on your dick is not of uniform thickness. The skin towards the glans, including
your foreskin remnant, is thinner than the skin at the base with all the hair on it. When
you stretch the skin and place it under tension, the tension is not perceived by the skin
as equal all along the shaft. The skin towards the tip perceives more tension and is stimulated
to grow more new skin than does the skin and hair towards the base. Therefore almost all
the new skin will be grown from the thinner forward skin with no hair, NOT FROM THE BASE
OF YOUR DICK where all the hair is. So for those of you who started with hair on your shaft
before restoration, this skin is going to be moving back down the shaft closer to the base
where it belongs in order to accommodate the new skin that is growing up towards the tip.
So put your minds at ease. You may actually end up with LESS hair on your shaft than when
you started. But just in case you still want to remove hair, consider the following:
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For what it's worth here's my experience regarding permanent hair removal.
I naturally had some shaft hair - especially on the ventral side - and I
thought my restoration efforts had caused additional migration of
pubic/scrotal hair up the shaft. This hair, or my awareness of it, became
annoying during oral sex and, I thought, unsightly.
After months of personal experience and discussion with many others
experiencing the same problem I can report that there are 8 ways to remove
unwanted hair from your body:
1. Shaving hair is fast, cheap, painless, and very temporary. All shaved
hair will grow back in a few days or weeks.
2. Plucking hairs is tedious, painful, cheap, and temporary. All plucked
hairs will grow back in a few months.
3. Waxing hair removal is fast, painful, cheap, and temporary. All waxed
hair will grow back in a few months.
4. Depilatory creams are fast, cheap, messy, and temporary. These creams are
caustic and can burn painfully if left on penile or scrotal skin for more than
a few minutes. All depilated hair will grow back within a few months.
5. Laser hair removal is fast, painless, very expensive, and temporary. All
lasered hair will grow back in 1-2 years. (Update 8/20/98. In a recent LA
Times article it was stated that the FDA has just approved a new Laser hair
removal method that now is permanent. Pictured a man who had all of his back
hair removed for $5,000 - and they claim it's gone forever)
6. Electronic Radio Wavelength removal devices are tedious, uncomfortable,
cheap, and temporary. All radio waved hair will grow back in a few months.
7. Low voltage (9V battery) devices are tedious, uncomfortable, cheap, and
temporary. Almost all low voltaged hair will grow back in 1-2 years.
8. Blended Electrolysis hair removal is tedious, painful, expensive, and
about 70% to 90% permanent per session. About 10% - 30% of the electrolized
hair will grow back in 6 months to 2 years. But this is the only way to
permanently remove hair because it is the only method that destroys the
follicle. After about the third treatment in an area - no living follicles
will be left and therefore no more hair - ever.
Each hair follicle has an independent life cycle of growth/dormancy/growth
which can be as little as 6 months or as long as 2 years. This is probably
why most of the home devices (I've owned them all) have a limited 1 year
warrantee - to avoid liability for their fraudulent claims.
Notes regarding electrolysis:
Little whitish subcutaneous bumps are cooked dead hair follicles (mostly oil,
wax, and lye) and will be absorbed by the body in a month or two.
Keep the little red scabs that occur from large follicle destruction and/or
allergic reaction to steel/nickel needles swabbed several times a day with
alcohol and they will heal in 3-7 days.
Guys who have had their scrotal hair removed love the sensuality of it but
complain about the constant "stickiness" resulting from loss of the cooling
airspace that curly hair subtly provides.
Electrolysis costs from $30.00 to $60.00 per hour and a good operator can
destroy 40 - 60 follicles per hour).
Shop by telephone for an operator who will work on the genital area - "Do you
work on the genital area, or can you direct me to an Electrologist who does?"
Dermatologists and plastic surgeons are good sources of referral.
Make sure the operator is clean (especially the fingernails). The treatment
area should be spotlessly clean and sterile. The operator should use the
"blended" method (heat and electrical charge). If you insist on a new gold
needle every time (they cost the operator about $5.00 each) you will reduce
nickel allergy reactions to zero.
If you are sensitive to pain, get a prescription of acetaminophen with #3
codeine from your doctor to dull the nerves so the operator can turn up the
heat and electrical current to a level that is most effective in permanently
destroying the follicles.
Unless you are a card-carrying masochist you need not worry about getting an
erection during an electrolysis session. There is nothing sexual about it.
Finally, when all is said and permanently done, the end result is great. It
looks good, feels very soft, smooth, and sensual, and should get you rave
reviews. (A side effect is that your penis "appears" bigger.)
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Variety is the Spice of Tugging
Dan Jarrett, <email@example.com>
I have used many methods during my restoration and i know of many others who
also use several systems also. The truth of the matter is that each system
works and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Also different
systems have their own levels of convenience re where and how long one wears
it. eg- i would not use any system other than the tape system if i was
traveling on a plane. It is also more comfortable in bed. A PUD is great
for around the house where one can swing free- but not so good in public
unless one can cope with a possible embarrassment if it comes off- or one is
prepared to be swamped with envious questions and proposals about the
enormous lump in ones trousers!:) The pill tube is an amazing device to be
sure and very simple to "operate." It can however be difficult for some to
commence with as there may not be enough skin to stretch over the tube and
as it does not put as much even tension on the whole circumference of the
dick, the resulting skin growth can be a "little less fitting or neat"
Varying the method does wonders to correct this and helps to prevent the
"hose look." Because of the tedium of what is in reality a long slow
process- variety is the spice of life for many of us. What is important is
that the restorer be as comfortable with whatever systems he uses. I cant
imagine sticking with just the one system and i enjoy the variations- it has
made the process a little more interesting for me- or put another way- less
boring! My favorites method is actually the least favored my most- and the
most difficult to keep on for a long period- and that is the PUD. It works
better than most methods when it is on and does have a certain *ahem* erotic
feeling- but boy is it anti social- ie i can only wear it around the house
and not when I'm sleeping- it is supremely comfortable tho. It is also very
expensive and with the dollar rate being what it is it cost me nearly 200
Australian. Still, I would still not be without it!
I suggest that a restorer use any methods that suit him- they all have
their strengths and weaknesses.
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Will Restoring Improve My Sex Life?
i posted the other day about how i experienced GLIDING ACTION, for the first time,
while making love with my wife....
I had mentioned HOW GREAT THIS WAS!! and that i wanted to provide a little
more detail if anyone was interested... well, a few of you posted back to
me... and i lost your individual e-mails... so i thought that i would just
post it to the group... it really is not that bad (in terms of graphic
details)... but i thought that i would give this gentle waring so that you
could delete.. before you read too much.. if you did not want to read too
so you are still here....
I really had not intended on any of this happening.... it all just happened
my wife and i were BEING TOGETHER... having some foreplay (btw- she knows
i'm telling you this)... anyway... when we were ready to take it to the next
level.... i gathered up the foreskin that i do have..... pinched it on the
bottom in front of the glans (to make it as tight as possible)... and slowly
circled myself around the outside of her... trying to distribute some
natural lubricant.... anyway... after a minute or two (not sure how long) of this,
we were ready for me to come in.... i still held what i had in front of my
glans... and kind's used my fingers to shove my forskin into her (not my
penis yet)... this was not too easy... it is not like i have a foot long foreskin
or anything... but i did manage to get some in before i inserted my penis....
well, once my penis was in... it just kind'a POPPED into her all the way,
right past the foreskin.... THIS FELT JUST WONDERFUL!! then, as i was
thrusting, i noticed that i could withdraw really far, with my forskin still
being caught (kind'a - not sure how.. not sure why... did not really
care)...this allowed me to basically protect my glans from the great feeling of
being inside her... and allowed me a place to go to cool down when i got to close
to the edge.... actually, pulling myself out... during our intercourse was just
wonderful.... i could feel the tension on my foreskin, as i pulled out...
then, when i went to thrust back in... i POPPED out again... MAN THIS WAS
GREAT!!!... i could really feel my skin popping over the back edge of my
glans... this never happened before... AND LET ME TELL YOU!! MY WIFE ALSO
she said that she could feel this skin moving... that i felt wonderful
this was a couple of days ago.... we have not had intercourse since this...
i hope to GOD that this was not a one time event.... so i'm going to be trying
this again next time......
the orgasm i had was just FANTASTIC!! it felt so wonderful to be able to be
inside her.. but yet, be protected from excess stimultion by pulling out
slightly and slipping back inside my foreskin....
although i am so glad i'm restoring my foreskin... with each GREAT
experience comes a sad thought... which is the following... "Oh, you mean that if my
parents did not have me circed ALL OF MY ORGASMS THROUGHOUT MY ENTIRE LIFE
WOULD HAVE FELT THIS GOOD??!!"
i know that we can not dwell on the past... but it just drives me crazy to
think of all that i have missed... all that i have lost... and all that i
will never really have...
anyway... i hope you guys did not find this offensive.... i just thought
that some might find it useful.....
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