SMALLnet post360

I greatly enjoyed the posting on CO2. It makes a nice change from Cox and Norvel!! Does anyone know how to get hold of a plan for Helides, the small replica CO2 model, or any information on the larger model? David Williams ENGLAND

Before winter locked in here, a youngster and his dad showed up at the field with a Wingo. Initial inspection revealed a very well engineered and executed design. Closer inspection showed that the prop was on backwards. Not the fault of the "builder" it seems.

The prop is mounted to a spinner/hub and it was put on backwards, seemingly, by the factory. The assembly could not be pulled off the motor shaft easily, at the field, so a flight was attempted as is.

Flying characteristics were very good in the near calm conditions, although obviously with more thrust the aircraft certainly could handle a bit of wind.

Has anyone else encountered this problem with the Wingo, and how can the prop be reversed if necessary?

The Mouse inquired: "...I have an electric pusher question. I recently purchased the Mirage 2000...but they run the motor clockwise and use standard tractor props."

We sport Speed 400 flyers just reverse the connections on the 400 (and 280's) to get pushers. Turn the tractor prop around (so the airfoil is facing the front) and go fly. Most little motors are timed neutrally -- you can gain some performance by adjusting the timing. That takes a special tool, order from New Creations R/C at (409) 856-4630.

The Zagi prop is good, cheap and needs no adaptor -- I find them a little heavy on pitch, and I like to use Master Airscrew 5.5" X 4" or 5.5" X 4.5" props.

Don't quit the SMALLnet digest -- there is a wealth of infor- mation there too. Electrics work with lots of small stuff (even gas, haha)...

To all - if you have ordered my plans, or asked for information -- I have to take some time off for a personal issue. I will answer everything when I finish...

Regarding the paucity of pusher props: if you are, or once were, a FreeFlighter, you may have had the experience of carving your own balsa props. Gas props are much easier as the pitch is far less, and not as much wood needs taking off.

I've been carving my own props for pushers for 20 years and they work just fine. Find a lumberyard that specializes in hardwoods and get some good maple. (Oak is too porous, but you can use good dense walnut, peach, apricot or plum.)

Another approach is to reset the motor timing. I haven't used a Speed 400, so I don't know if it will lend itself to that procedure like Astros do. Carlo

The Mouse asked about Speed 400 motors and the effects of clock- wise and/or counterclockwise rotation. Please be advised that although the dealers will tell you that the motors come with neutral timing (run the same either way) my experience with some dozen or so is that rarely is this the case. Some furnished with gears are better timed for straight and vice versa! Recognize that most (if not all) Speed 400 size motors are capable of being timed to the preferred direction by rotation of the back plate.

I have been involved in R/C flight for about 20 years, but the recent loss of an R/C Airport forces me to get involved with Speed 400 electrics. This is an area where I am flying essentially blind.

I have read a great deal (both here and elsewhere), and found that putting together a power package was not difficult until I came to the charger purchase. I am hopelessly confused by the very wide selection and complexity of this technology. There are so many types etc.

I have questions about time lapse charging, peak detection charging, source voltage and a host of other issues. If you are an expert in this field, please email me direct. If this isn't possible, could someone recommend a single book source which would address these subjects? Thanks. Jack Dickerson

Anyone flying the Norvel U-Can-2? It looks like a good model at a pretty reasonable price. I'd like to hear if it is as good as it looks. Joe Bodin

Looking for some information on a recent TV commercial (don't even know what it was for) that showed a guy standing on his deck or porch flying a small R/C model (vintage) plane, very neat old design. It must have been electric-powered for lack of engine noise.

I would like to know if this was a kit or what ? Also, this could have been computer-faked for all I know.

I put the old (c. 1966?) Fox .15X R/C back on my funfly testbed machine. My previous flights with this engine were run with disappointment because, now I have determined, the thrust washer had worn through (apparently) and when tightening the prop nut, said washer allowed the crankshaft to be bound up. Although the engine struggled through a couple of flights, power was poor and the engine ran hot, scorching the plug. Now I know why, and with a new thrust washer, was amazed at the performance this old mill delivered!

I used Rustoleum spray paints on a big R/C project, because articles in MA and other magazines praised its lightness, ease of use, and ability to withstand hot fuel. In this case, the plane's wings and tail were covered with mylar coverings, but the curvatures of the fuselage led me to painting.

The base was Silkspan applied with clear SuperPoxy (never again!) (another magazine spiel), over which I used the old SuperPoxy primer. After sanding this down to satisfaction, I used Rustoleum spray gray primer, followed by more sanding and, Rustoleum gray. Trim was Industrial Use Rustoleum blue spray.

The spray cans worked to a point where they'd spit. Respraying resulted in the paint attacking itself. Finally, it became a contest of trying to spray enough paint over the bubbling paint to subdue and drown it into laying down. At times it seemed to be a psychic battle between me and the paint.

Finally, the paint cured, and then I noticed the cracks and minute peeling. Mind you, this aircraft was coming to the end of a two- year building effort with lots of dough invested to make it work.

Well, things dried and quieted down. But now, the test of fuel resistance raised its ugly head. So I inquired far and wide. Would it stand up to fuel? Should I coat it otherwise? Should I go with a four-stroke to allow lower nitro fuel?

Well, I caved. After applying decals, Xerox glue-ons, and the decals from two bourbon bottles (there was $26 of the project cost right there!), I used Aero-Gloss Hot Fuel Proofer. It has cured (and gave everything a nice gloss), and still, I am trying to decide whether to Armor-All the finish or wax it (what kind of polish to use?) before I roll this project out at the Field for its test flight.

Will SMALLnetters please help me with this? In the meantime, I am contemplating ordering a complete system of Brodak dopes and using them exclusively on my next project (unless someone out there has a discouraging word).

I was surprised someone else did not mention this, as the subject comes up often on the usenet. The consensus seems to be that there are several different formulations for Rustoleum, and that cans with 'stops rust' on the label are the only ones that are glow fuel resistant.

Allen Wiltz < > has also searched for the "Holy Grail" of a perfect fuelproof finish for model airplanes:

For many years I have painted my aircraft which had all-solid surfaces (balsa-covered foam wings and sheet balsa fuselage sides) with acrylic lacquer. Since this lacquer is no longer available I have tried several other paints. The best, so far, is Dutch Boy acrylic enamel sold in spray cans at K-Mart stores for $1.97.

The finish is hard and gives a nice satin finish. I use fuel in the 10%-15% nitro range, and have had no problems.

Pusher props 6" diameter x 4" pitch are available in the Grish (Tornado) Tempest line. Allen Wiltz

I really enjoy the Postings here. I have a question for the multitude. I am 74 and have been building and flying since I was 11. Radio control with a tone generator, rubber-powered escapement, Pulse width/pulse duration (Galloping Ghost); Reeds; and finally Proportional (1965).

I have recently started into small electric and have virtually no experience. I have recently become extremely allergic to CA. Bought a Sig R/C Rascal and wrote Sig with the question: "Will using Sig-Bond or Franklin Titebond or Ambroid work with this kit without making it unacceptably heavy for electric?"

Sig wrote back that these glues are all fine glues but really didn't answer the question of weight. Maybe I missed some- thing in their answer but it was a one-liner. I really don't need another lead sled.

...Kenneth, if you confine the glue in your Rascal to the actual joint areas, the overall difference in weight between CA, Titebond, and Ambroid would probably be too small to register on a Postal Scale. Many modelers pile up glue in "fillets" adjacent to their structural joints "to add crash resistance".

That's ineffective, and DOES add significant weight. But the only place that glue really functions as it was designed to is within the actual joint.

But technique must be learned in order to achieve maximum strength. End grain balsa, for example, siphons thin glue -- CA or Ambroid -- from the joint. That's why "double gluing" is needed.

In that, you apply a preliminary drop (or line) of glue to the end grain and allow that to penetrate. When it dries, it seals off the "capillary tubes" of the hollow wood fibers, so that the later JOINING application of glue stays put.

Don't use wax paper to protect a model plan for a project that you intend sing Ambroid on. Ambroid will absorb something from the wax coating that prevents it from properly curing.

The best "plan protector" I know of is the "backing sheet" from Monokote. That works with ANY kind of glue.

I don't know how the Rascal is engineered; whether it's necessary to glue together large areas of sheet balsa face-to-face -- as with fuselage doublers. For that kind of glue joint, DON'T consider white glue or yellow. The water content of those will swell the wood and make it become convex on the wet side.

Ambroid also has difficulties in sheet balsa laminating applications. That's because it dries first around the outer edges, sealing off the interior. The solvent can't evaporate easily from there, so the glue near the middle of a sheet lamination may remain wet (and non-adherent) for quite a long time -- perhaps DAYS, depending on the weather.

DON'T try accelerating the drying time of any modeling adhesive with a heat gun. That can weaken the joint severely.

Butt joints in balsa wood are always potential failure points. I would never use a brittle-curing glue for those -- not any more, I mean! I've learned my lesson with hand-launched glider wings butt-joined at the dihedral breaks with Titebond.

Ambroid is my current favorite of the NON-CA types. As for a water-thinned glue, I've found by careful testing that Sig's "Super Weld" is far stronger than ANY of the white glues on the shelves at K-Mart or your local Supermarket. Elmer's, for instance, is too watery for reliable balsa joinery. [JW]

The recent talk of small biplanes suitable for slow-speed flight prompts me to write. I am very fortunate to fly with Bill Brewer, who is into SAM rubber and gas freeflight, as well as sport R/C. He not only sells old-timer and nostalgia plans, but draws things up when I can get him excited about a design. You should see his work!

Recently I succeeded in getting him to draw up a biplane for .049-.10 engines. The design is Ed Slobod's "Gahni" sport biplane from the "59-61" Zaic Yearbook. The original was 24" span. Bill drew it up having a 37" span @ 410 square inches, and a 32" length. I have been in love with this biplane for 15 years. I have Bill's plans in my hands. It will get built this winter. I should say that this biplane is very simple to build, just like the small freeflight it originated from.

I have test-run, but not yet flown, the very, very nice MP Jet .061 in the glow version. However, I also fly diesels more than I fly glow. I like up to the .19 PAW diesel, but have found less merit to using my .60 PAW diesel for flying. My local hobby dealer gets diesels from Carlson Engine Imports, whom I highly recommend.

Anyway, the Gahni biplane with the MP Jet would be fun. Think of a small, lightly-loaded slow flyer that is switchable from glow to diesel! If others want a project to try diesel power on, the Gahni with swappable glow and diesel MP Jet .061s sounds like too much fun. Use a Perfect Brodak metal UC tank (clunk tanks are not needed for non-aerobatic flight). I stopped using plastic clunk tanks years ago.

Bill did say that he would need to contact Ed for permission to use his design, before selling plans. I want Bill to do a magazine article on the plane. If anyone is interested, let me know as Bill is not connected to the Net.

Joe Wagner's reference to Paul Plecan reminded me to ask about the suitability of Paul's last series of 7 scale rubber designs for conversion to small IC, CO2 or electric R/C. Has anyone tried one of these? They include the: Page Racer, Sperry Messenger, Arado AR76, Macchi-Castoldi MC72, Howard "Pete", Bede 4, Turbo Porter and Paul's Tornado II .049 FF. Wow, what a lineup!

Concerning prostate cancer: I was told 3 1/2 years ago that I had a PSA of 10 and it was urgent that I have an immediate biopsy. Lesson: Ask your doctor what your PSA is and act when it reaches 4. It's your life, you make the decision.

The Urologist that performed my biopsy wanted to surgically remove my prostate ASAP. Two urologists and two radiological oncologists later, I elected for external radiation and radioactive implants.

My PSA is now 0.2. Lesson: Locate your nearest Prostate Support Group, (check with your hospital) then attend several meetings to learn from doctors (of various disciplines) and from men who have had the various treatments, exactly what your options are, and then pick the one that suits you best.

It's your life, you make the decision. You will discover that the claims of the doctors are not always borne out by the experience of their patients. Phil Davy

There was a construction article in Model Airplane News a few years ago for a rubber-powered RC. The author's last name was Valls. I can't remember his first name, but he lived in the Rio Grande Valley of southwest Texas.

I have one rubber-powered remote-controlled plane that I've flown, and another almost finished. I said "remote-controlled" since these use infra-red receivers and magnetic actuators.

The one that has flown is based on a One Nite 16 with a carbon fiber fuselage and weighs 12 grams, all up with rudder-only control. Flight times are only about 40 to 45 seconds since that's as big a rubber motor as I can fit properly.

The next one is based on a One Nite 28 and I am aiming at 2 minutes flight time. This will be rudder-elevator controlled. It looks like 32 to 35 grams all up weight.

Receiver power is three LR41 sized alkaline cells for 4.5 volts. These cells weigh 0.5 grams each and are rated at 32 mAh but at microamp current. The receiver will operate on two new cells but the micro-processor quits at 2.7 volts so there isn't much reserve.

Three cells seem to last a long time. I get them from B.G. Micro at $1.99 for a card of ten cells. The BIRD actuators from Cloud 9 work fully proportionally with the newest infra-red receivers from Sergio Zigras (ZTRON). These receivers, at one gram, provide fully- proportional three-channel control and do not require a separate ESC.

Incidentally, the infra-red receivers will work well in a lighted parking lot after dark. I have even flown in the shade of a building.

The extensive description of CO2 motors in posting #359 was interesting enough to make me decide to pursue this. The handling and charging with CO2 seemed like a lot of bother; but then so does the charging and handling of batteries to those who haven't done it extensively. All you need is the correct equipment.

In response to a question about rubber-powered R/C models, I have been flying a 30" Pacific Ace rubber model for the past 3 years. I urge everyone to try rubber R/C because it is easy to do, and the flights are beautiful. My Ace has a CETO receiver and a BIRD actuator. It is very reliable and controls the Ace very well.

In years past I was limited in flying my Pacific Ace by the small locally available flying fields, and could not enjoy a fully-wound flight often. Now I can wind fully and let it soar in the local park that is 5 minutes from home.

Before the Ace, I tried a Scientific Jitterbug for R/C. It has a sharply-tapered wing and tended to stall upon rudder actuation. Thus, it appears that a rubber RC model should have about 30" span and a conventional wing and stabilizer planform.

Yes, blowing a motor is a concern. My Ace is 15 or so years old and has survived several blown motors. The best protection is a blast tube slipped over the motor while winding. The tube is removed before attaching the prop. If anyone is interested in my experiences, they can e-mail me directly.

A note about schoolyard flying. I DO fly in a schoolyard about 2 blocks from my house. Just recently our local city council decided to ban model rockets and airplanes from city property, including schools and parks, due to the "danger involved".

When asked if they had any incidents of injuries, they replied, "No, but there is the possibility." The Parks Commissioner was unaware of the SMALL movement and had the impression that all model airplanes were huge monsters with Weed-Wacker engines. Those WOULD be dangerous in parks, I think!

Happily, local modelers showed up at the meeting and dissuaded the city from taking this action for the present. I wrote the Parks Commissioner (whom I know) and invited him along next time I take my glider or Lazy Bee to the school.

He wrote back and said. "Well, we aren't going to send the storm troopers out just yet! Go ahead and fly." He is actually a fairly reasonable guy.

But this brings up a couple of points. We should possibly think of seeing that some of the officials get a chance to see what we are doing in parks. Take a Park Flyer or a small model to a city council meeting or to the parks commissioner of your area. Or make an appointment (Oh GOD don't show up un- announced!) with such people and tell them what you do and how you do it.

I am not an "activist" exactly, but maybe a little understanding is what's needed. Mark Garvey

SMALLnet Posting post360