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Casa Jurado
226 Cincinnati Ave. El Paso, TX (915) 532-6429 | |||||||
| RESTAURANT INFO. | RATING | TYPE | FEATURES | BEST ITEMS/ SPECIAL RATINGS | |||
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Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun. Parking is difficult weekends and during UTEP basketball games |
23 |
Mexican El Paso |
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Smoking: No Smoking Alcohol: Full Bar
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Best Items: Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos, Chicken Mole, Flautas
Enchiladas Montadas: red
Chiles Rellenos:
Chicken Mole:
Flautas:
Chips: , Salsa:
Rice: , Refried Beans:
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| LAST TRIED | TIMES TRIED | ||||||
| 27-Feb-07 | 10+ | ||||||
Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city's most interesting
neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa Jurado itself is
decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati Avenue.
Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in 2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained. For a while the food did not seem to be the same as when the Jurado family still had the restaurant. However, through keeping the same cooks and waiters the restaurant has maintained a continuity so that as of 2007 it seems to be the same "Casa J" as before. In theory, the food should be even better now than before. The Salsa is the only item that has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor. I think it is still pretty heavy on the comino but I thought it was good. If you wish to take a taste test you can try the one at Casa Jurado West which still serves the original salsa. A conscious effort has been made by the owner of the Casa Jurado in Kern Place to keep things fresh by making the food daily and not keeping anything overnight. One time I went they had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that day, and the sauce is only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next morning. This also means that if you go in the evening not everything on the menu might be available. Enchiladas Montadas was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and currently at the Doniphan
(Casa Jurado West) location. This is characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance
chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas
are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic
and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in
the city. Based on my recent experiences at the restaurant I suspect they are now back to the original
style, but without ordering this specific dish I cannot make a rating of it. It does seem, though, that the
restaurant tried to change at first, then went back to the original way of doing things that made Casa
Jurado a success in the first place.
My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a "perfect" order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are normally found. The only component of the flautas that I thought was less than perfect was the chicken that had a flavor I frequently encounter in Mexican food, but that I nevertheless do not like very much (kind of a dry taste). Still it was good, and next time I will probably get beef flautas. Even if you order chicken, I still highly recommend this dish. At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same. Chicken Mole used to be very good. It is a matter of taste on this dish, but currently I like the version at Carnitas Queretaro the best. Salpicón has always been the restaurant's specialty--a type of beef salad that is served cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the lab salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants. One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me (and who still works at the restaurant) suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but I think it would be so worth it. Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes. Refried Beans are better than before. It could be that they have now started using vegetable oil, but I really do not know the reason they seem to be so good. One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso. The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer. I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a comlimentary serving of something called "queso," but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a key ingredient. I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are some of the best in the city. The ones at the "old" restaurant were good, but I do not remember them being this good. The Flan over the years has been one of the best I've eaten. I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. If some of my previous disappointments have now been rectified, the restaurant can now be considered better than before. I think it is at least close to the type of food Henry brought us for a number of years. |
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