Hacienda Mexicana
5800 Doniphan Dr.El Paso, TX
(915) 584-1594
The old Griggs Restaurant on Doniphan Drive was such a special restaurant that I think it is only
appropriate that another high quality Mexican restaurant take its place, and this is what has now
happened with the opening of Hacienda Mexicana in 2010. The building resembles a hacienda, with
several large dining rooms, outdoor gardens, and a peaceful setting away from other buildings. It
is not located in the country as it was when Griggs opened, but it still seems that way.
Although I loved the food at Griggs, Hacienda Mexicana has made a change from Griggs' menu
and now serves a large variety of El Paso style Mexican food. I was impressed with the number of
items on the menu that included such things as chicken mole (and other dishes that Griggs did not
serve). I should point out that the former chef at Griggs has opened Peppe's in Canutillo (6761
Doniphan Dr.) where the former Griggs recipes are now served. Griggs (and now Peppe's) is New
Mexico style food, while Hacienda Mexicana follows the tradition of high quality flavorful El Paso
style food that I regularly experienced in the 1980's but now I find in fewer and fewer restaurants.
Although the chips and salsa are not the most important part of most meals, they can detract from
it if they are not good. The Chips here, though, were the first sign that it was a good restaurant.
These were thick and well toasted, as they should be.
The Red Salsa was thick with a strong chile flavor, made in a typical Mexican style. Of the
two salsas this was my favorite.
The Green Salsa was more spicy, but more runny and hard to put on the chips. The fact
that they served more than one salsa was a definite plus for the restaurant, allowing a variety of flavors.
When I asked for suggestions about what to order, the waiter suggested a combination plate.
This reassured me because on my first visit to a Mexican restaurant I like to try as many items as
possible. However, this was still not an easy choice because they serve about six different combo
plates, and each can be modified through substitutions. Thus the one I got was more or less my
choice for the items I would like to try.
The Chile Relleno turned out to be much like the one Griggs used to serve, with an
excellent batter and no sauce on top. It was stuffed with Muenster cheese, and had a little cheese
on top, but to me was the utlimate chile relleno in El Paso for its simplicity and goodness. I want to
start a list of "best individual items" at restaurants, and I know of no chile relleno in El Paso that could
top the one at Hacienda Mexicana (in fact, it rivals the one at Chope's in New Mexico).
I probably could never pick the best Red Enchilada in El Paso, but the one at Hacienda
Mexicana was close. This was made the classic El Paso style, with a flavorful red chile that was not
too spicy. I do not like a lot of additives such as cumin, and this was one where the chile flavor was
left to stand on its own with only a little help from additional ingredients (in other words, just right).
The Flautas were served in the style of the "Mexican flag" with red chile, white sour cream,
and a green guacamole sauce for color (the guacamole was a thin, pureed sauce). Although I thought
the sauce was good, the flautas themselves were somewhat thin and dry (but not unusual for El Paso).
The Chicken Taco had the same meat as the flautas, which I thought was rather
unflavorful. I ordered the taco with a soft shell (normally it comes fried), but it seemed that the
restaurant was really not expert at making flavorful soft tacos as some of the more authentic Mexican
restaurants are. Probably when it comes to El Paso style Mexican food the crispy tacos are best
(and probably beef should be ordered instead of chicken).
The Rice was very flavorful and not dry. It tasted fresh, and not as if it had been sitting around
for a while.
The Beans pointed out the main problem I had with some of the food--they had a definite
salty flavor. In fact, this one thing pointed out the main difference to me between Hacinda Mexicana
being a very good El Paso style Mexican restaurant (which it is) and possibly being one of the best
(such as Casa Jurado). I thought the chile relleno and possibly the red enchilada here were better than
at Casa Jurado, and some of the other food could be equally good if they cut down on the amount of
salt used.
Hacienda Mexicana serves home made Agua Fresca drinks, including horchata and
canteloupe (melón), but they said the lemonade comes from a mix.
Overall it was a very good expeience. The price was very reasonable, and the service was good.
The restaurant closes at 9 p.m., so I did not have to feel rushed in trying to get there early as I do at
many restaurants. This was truly a worthy replacement for Griggs, especially since I feel they are
serving the same chiles rellenos that Griggs used to have.
Chips and salsa
Combo plate with rice, chicken taco, flautas, chile relleno, red enchilada, beans, and salad
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RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 23
Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Accessible: Yes
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Applied for License
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Most Recent Visit
Mar. 30, 2010
Number of Visits: 1
Best Items
Chiles Rellenos, Red Enchiladas
Special Ratings
Red Enchiladas:
Chiles Rellenos:
Chicken Taco:
Flautas:
Rice:
Beans:
Flour Tortillas:
Chips:
Salsa:
Melón:
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