True Thai Restaurant
4309 Fred Wilson Ave.El Paso, TX
(915) 564-4300
This seems to be the most authentic Thai restaurant in El Paso (thus the name "True Thai," I suppose). True
Thai is small and sometimes requires a wait to get a table, but it is always friendly and courteous.
It has taken some experimentation to find some of the more interesting plates. This has been made
more complicated by the fact that the cooks have changed a couple of times, and now it seems I have to try
everything over again to write accurate descriptions of them. My list of "favorites" has changed with each
chef, but the overall quality has stayed fairly consistent.
At first I joined the masses of people largely uninitiated to Thai food by regularly ordering the
Phad Thai, a noodle dish that I usually ordered with tofu. Although the lime, sugar, peanuts,
and Thai chiles served as condiments on the table made it enjoyable, I found the noodles to
be rather sticky and gooey (how do you like my technical descriptions of Thai food?). The flavor
was good, though, and it helped solidify Thai food as one of my favorite cuisines.
At present the phad thai is served with a tomato sauce that I do not find as enjoyable
as the seemingly more complex sauce that was served before. The noodles are probably better
now, but the problem in making the comparison is that I was formerly only interested in eating the
food, and not in describing it for a review.
I believe the phad thai with tomato sauce is actually a northern Thailand Isan style version
of the dish as I discovered when one of the former chefs used to make it this way on special request.
I do not find the current version as flavorful, and I do not know why. The current version is not as spicy,
but I believe there were other ingredients formerly included that are now missing. I cannot make any
complaints about the current dish other than the fact that I remember it being better in the past.
The curry dishes have consistently been the best in El Paso. They started out being thin and
runny, being just slightly better than at the other restaurants. I have been pretty impressed, though,
by the way the current chef has made the curry thicker with a more vibrant flavor. It is now coming
close to some of the better curries I have ever had.
Phad Prik King has been one of the better curry dishes, consisting of a red curry served with green
beans. I have tried several meats with it, with shrimp being the best. The chicken did not have a
flavor that was quite as enticing as it should be. Probably my second choice would be with vegetables
or tofu.
The current version of phad prik king, though, has been modified to include
coconut milk. This is not the way I have had it at other restaurants, and I believe is not the traditional
way the dish should be done (otherwise it is the same as Panang curry or other types of red curry
dishes). The curry was very good with the coconut milk, but I do not know whether to be happy
about the change or complain that they are no longer making traditional phad prik king. I
cannot rate this dish as five stars, though, if it is not prepared the way I find it at every other Thai restaurant.
The Phad King (ginger) has a delicious sauce, but the vegetables have been disappointing.
The vegetables usually consist of a lot of bell peppers and other crunchy things that I do not like as much
as the more traditional green vegetables. More than anything, I just have not found the dish to be filling
enough when I order the vegetable version. It seems that most of my disappointment at True Thai is
with the meat and vegetables rather than the sauces.
One of the best items has been Tom Yum. It consists of a good amount of vegetables in a soup
broth with curry paste and a generous amount of lime (a choice of meat is also available). The lemongrass
and galanga provide just about everything that makes this dish good (there is even a jar of Thai peppers
and fish sauce on the table that can be added).
Other types of soup with seaffod have been very good, but I do not remember what they were called
on the menu.
So far I have found that just about everything except noodle dishes better with a side order
of rice. It costs extra, though.
The Thai Tea is one of the best I have found at any Thai restaurant, and has never been
disappointing on the numerous times I have ordered it.
One problem I have found at True Thai has been the lack of some items I usually find at other Thai
restaurants. Some of the items that are served occasionally lack some of the ingredients that are normally
included in the dish. (I think both of these are symptoms of El Paso's isolation from a large Asian population
and a lack of Asian super markets). I believe the restaurant is delivering more authentic Thai food than
can be found in other establishments around the borderland, and I always enjoy the items I order.
I know there are a lot of items on the menu I have yet to try, so I would not say the restaurant does
not have enough from which to choose.
Probably my biggest gripe with True Thai is that I do not think either the chicken or tofu are as good as
they should be. I have tried some beef dishes that were not very exciting, but were all right. Probably the
only items I would recommend here are ones made with seafood or vegetables, and even the vegetables
have left me disappointed on occasion. Shrimp usually seems to be the best meat choice on most
dishes.
The restaurant is small with about eight tables, and I don't care much for the plastic patio chairs that
are used. While the food is not expensive, an order of spring rolls or soup will push the price up so that it
becomes one of the higher priced Asian restaurants in the city. Rice is extra and Thai tea is more
expensive than the regular tea.
Phad Thai at True Thai with a tomato sauce
Phad Prik King is one of the best curry dishes
Seafood Tom Yum with large pieces of galanga and other ingredients floating around
Go to Index
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 21
Cuisine: Thai
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Accessible: Yes
Tea: Jasmine (bags)
MSG: No
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: No
Most Recent Visit
Apr. 7, 2008
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Tom Yum, Phad Prik King, Thai Ice Tea
Special Ratings
Pad Thai:
Tom Yum:
Phad Prik King:
Phad King:
Thai Tea:
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