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Lai Thai

7419 N.W. 23rd St.
Bethany, OK
(405) 495-4758

Lai Thai in Bethany, a suburb of Oklahoma City

Lai Thai is a small neighborhood restaurant in the western suburbs of Oklahoma City that is set back in a strip shopping center so far off the street it may be hard to spot even if you are looking for it. I think it is worth the effort to find, though, as it seems to be committed to providing home style Thai food.

I have heard that Lai Thai has had different owners and chefs through the years, and possibly because of this my experiences have not been consistent. Several years ago I could barely get enough spice level in the meals to qualify them as Thai food, but today I have to be careful that they are not too hot. I have not determined if the food is better or worse than it used to be, but it does seem to be different with a style of cooking that I think reflects different people in the kitchen than were there in the restaurant's early years. When I have sampled more dishes I will probably be able to tell if I like Lai Thai more than in the past. For this review, though, I will try to point out which of the food I ordered is representative of the dishes that are currently served.

Pad khing with tofu at Lai Thai

Pad khing with tofu at Lai Thai

On my first visit several years ago the Pad Khing (ginger tofu) that I ordered from the lunch menu was rather disappointing. The good ones I have tried in Seattle were loaded with the flavors of ginger and Thai spices, and did not usually come with a large quantity of food but had a side order of rice that filled me up. The one at Lai Thai was loaded with onions (something that I can only eat in small quanties) and the "Thai flavor" did not seem to be there. I think they were trying so hard to keep the price down at lunch they left out a lot of the more desirable ingredients, but maybe this was just the way they had known the dish in Thailand.

A recent version of pad king I ordered from the dinner menu had a good flavor and good ingredients (see photo), and I would say was a lot better than the ones I had ordered at lunch several years ago. I do not know if having a new cook made the difference or whether the dinner version is substantially different from the lunch plate, but I know I have had different experiences when I have gone on different occasions.

The Pad Kee Mao, on the current lunch menu every weekday, was quite good and tasted about as authentic as I have had anywhere. Made with soft noodles, the customer gets a choice of meats. The tofu version I tried was more enjoyable than the tofu I get in many Thai restaurants. The sauce, mixed with chili peppers and Thai basil, provided sufficient stimulation to my taste buds to enjoy a noodle dish, something that could have turned out to be very bland. Eggs were cooked into the dish, and the fish sauce available for customers to pick up from a small table enhanced the flavor. One of the best aspects of the plate was the low price and the fact that it was not a huge American-sized portion that would have been served in many other restaurants.

Tom yum at Lai Thai

Tom yum with Thai tea

Tom Yum comes in a hot pot with a choice of meats, and I thought was a good representation of this type of Thai soup. This may not be as filling as some of the noodle dishes, but it comes with a bowl of rice to provide more substance.

The Thai Tea was equally impressive, if not more so, compared to many I have found in Thai restaurants. Cream was poured into the top of the glass, and stirring it with a straw spread it evenly throughout the drink. I know it is the "real thing" when it begins to separate if you leave it sitting for a while.

The problem with many Thai restaurants is that I have to find out what they do best, and I will probably not like the same things at every restaurant. I do not know if I have discovered the best dishes at Lai Thai, but the basil dishes do not seem to be a bad start.

Since my first visit in 2003 Lai Thai seems to have changed cooks, and my early perception of things not being spicy enough is no longer true. The restaurant is now using the "Thai star system," so if you order anything spicy it will be exactly that! (You have been warned!). The flavors should be equally good, though, no matter how spicy the food is ordered.

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RESTAURANT DETAILS

RATING: 20

Cuisine: Thai
Cost: $
Hours: Closed Sun.
Accessible: Yes
Tea: Jasmine (bags)/ Thai tea
MSG: No
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer
Buffet: No

Most Recent Visit
Jun. 14, 2008

Number of Visits: 5

Best Items
Pad Kee Mao, Thai Tea

Special Ratings
Pad Kee Mao:
Pad Khing:
Tom Yum:
Thai Tea:



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