By Ronda Pedee

Contrary to popular belief, the presence of algae in the aquarium does not necessarily mean that the water conditions are ideal and that tank is "healthy". Algae is, however, a normal component of an aquatic habitat that can become unsightly if not properly managed.

There are three techniques that hobbyists often use to combat the presence of algae in their aquariums. The first approach is to use algae-destroyer products to kill the dreaded stuff. While this technique often produces the desired results, a chemical attack is generally not recommended except as a last resort.

A second and more natural tactic involves heavily stocking your tank with plants before algae has had a chance to grow. Since algae and plants compete for the same nutrients, a well-planted aquarium will not have many leftover nutrients for the algae to utilize.

When this approach fails, the addition of an algae-eating fish will generally solve the algae problem. However, which type of fish to use is another dilemma. For small tanks, of larger tanks full of small fish, Otocinclus are recommended. They are extremely effective, only grow to 1.5 inches, and won't eat plants. For large tanks with more aggressive fish, the various types of Plecostomus are effective and good-sized, but may damage some broad-leafed plants in the algae-eating process. Bristlenose plecos seem to clean up the algae the quickest; while "marble horned" plecos are quite beautiful. Fancier the varieties, such as zebra, royal, and blue-eyed plecos prefer to munch on wood and live worms instead of plants or algae.

Also available are Thai flying foxes, "normal" flying foxes, Chinese algae eaters, and snails. Thai flying foxes are great for eating the long, hairy algae that the other fish will not touch, and they won't eat your aquarium plants. However, they also are prone to eating flakes and other foods instead of the algae. "Normal" flying foxes seem to enjoy flake food better than algae as well. Chinese algae eater won't eat algae at all, and become aggressive as they get bigger. Snails will eat algae, but many varieties will also eat plants and reproduce quickly in your tank.

If your tank suffers from green water instead of green glass and decorations, do a 50% water change then cover the tank for three days. Without light, the algae should die. After the three days, do another hefty water change to remove the dead algae from your water. If this method fails, use chemical warfare. A word of caution: algae-destroying chemicals and algae-eating fish are generally not compatible.

Other suggestions for keeping algae growth to a minimum include keeping the tank out of direct sunlight, feeding less, and siphoning organic waster off the bottom of the tank. Too many fish in the tank and using too much plant fertilizer can also accelerate the growth of algae.

By Phaedra Dunko

If you are looking for a pet that does not require a lot of attention, but is still fascinating, please try a millipede (family Archispirostreptus). There are over two hundred types of millipedes, but only a few species are available in the pet trade. One of the most common is the Black African Millipede. This is the largest of the millipede family, reaching lengths of up to 12 inches. There are others randomly available, such as the Fire Millipede, Ebony Millipede, and Ivory Millipede to name a few.

Millipedes in the wild are what we would think of as recycling bins. Their main diet is what falls to the forest floor. Most species are found to be burrowers, while some are quite arboreal. Millipedes of the Archispirostreptus family have a calcified shell that helps them with bulldozing into the ground. Their body is segmented, and every segment has two pairs of legs.

Like most insects millipedes molt their exoskeleton. During which time the animal is susceptible to its harsh surroundings. Proceeding the molt process the millipede will vanish underground to break into the new skins. After the initial break out of the old shell the pale mushy arthropod's chitin wrap will begin to harden with the permeating airflow through the burrow. Once millipedes have reach sexual maturity (black African Millipede reaches sexual millipede around 3 years) they do not molt their exoskeleton. Millipedes are considered a long-lived bug. Black African Millipede will live up to eight years.

By Mark Collins

Considering a lizard as new and interesting pet? There are many good starter lizards to choose from. In making the choice, your lifestyle and the level of interaction you desire with the animal are the most important factors. Your budget for this endeavor will also help in guiding you to the right decision. Listed below are the top three lizards for beginners.

Without hesitation the champion of this list is the leopard gecko (Eublepharis macularius). Leopard geckos are insectivorous, ground dwelling lizards from the arid regions of Pakistan and India. They attain an overall length of 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm). As neonates they are banded alternately yellow and brown, this pattern quickly fading with age to an overall light yellow with conspicuous brown spots, hence the common name. Leopard geckos are extremely tame, hardy, and easy to care for. Virtually all of them are captively produced so there are none of the worries you may encounter with caught specimens. A ten- gallon tank, with a screen top and a heat lamp will house one of these guys their entire life. A desert motif with a small humidity chamber is easy to set up and maintain. Leopard geckos are durable. Handling these animals is no problem aside from a bit of squirming now and then. If the tail gets pulled off, it will quickly grow another. This is a lizard can be played with every day, or left alone for weeks. A brief introduction to the husbandry and you are off on an easy-to-care-for lizard adventure. A complete habitat, including lizard will cost between ninety and one hundred dollars. As a first lizard, these fascinating little eyelid geckos are unparalleled.

The bearded dragon, Pogona vitticeps, is a close second. These diurnal, dry desert inhabitants are robust and docile. Like the leopard gecko, these lizards are being bred readily in captivity. The bearded dragon attains an overall length of 20 to 22 inches (55 to 60 cm) and thus will require an enclosure of at least 48 inches as an adult. Bearded have high U.V. light requirements, as well as a need for localized high temperatures of 100 degrees or more in the enclosure. Insects make up the primary component of the diet. Small amounts of fresh vegetables are readily taken as well. These chubby lizards are extremely placid and very easy to handle from the moment of hatching. If "handle-ability" alone was the criteria for this list then the bearded dragon would easily rank first. The fact that they attain some size, require more space, and are more expensive places them in a close second. A good four-foot enclosure with all of the fixings, including dragon, will cost approximately 300 to 325 dollars.

The American Anole, Anolis carolinensis, is another fine lizard to start with. Anoles are small, 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm), arboreal lizards from the Southeastern United States. They have the capability to change color from brown to green and varying shades in-between. A ten- gallon tank is suitable as an enclosure, but to really see their many varied behaviors, a twenty- gallon tank is recommended. A bark substrate, plastic plants, and manzanita branches make for a visually pleasing and easy to maintain habitat. An off center heat lamp will provide a necessary localized basking area. U.V. emitting lights are highly recommended as well. Drinking water is best supplied with regular mistings. A small group of three to four anoles in the previously mentioned habitat will display many varied and entertaining behaviors. Crickets and mealworms, occasionally dusted with vitamins, will make up the primary components of their diet. The addition of flies, spiders, and moths will round out their diet nicely (and cheaply). Being a food item for larger animals in the wild, anoles do not take readily to handling. They come recommended as a "set up and watch" type lizard. These lizards are typically wild caught, as breeding them in captivity tends not to be profitable. Since they are collected, there is a "buyer beware" note not mentioned above. Look these lizards over closely before buying them. As with fish, ask the store now long the anoles have been there, and how the animals are doing.

Anoles are inexpensive and easy to care for. Several anoles and a vivarium can be yours for as little as fifty dollars, making them an intriguing and entertaining option as a first lizard. There are many other grand first lizards that have not been mentioned. The best advice would be to go to a pet store, read books, and ask more questions. Informing yourself on an animal's needs before purchasing it is a wise decision, and will allow pet store personnel to help you choose the right lizard with more accuracy.

By Phaedra Dunko

Crickets (Acheta domestica, Gryllus bimaculatus)

Crickets are a very nutritious food source for insectivores and omnivores. Crickets can make up 50% of the animal's diet, although like most insects, crickets are calcium deficient and therefore should be fed a high calcium diet food then dusted with vitamin and calcium powders prior to be fed to your pet. The availability of crickets is plentiful. They can be found through mail order suppliers, at your local pet store, and at bait shops.

Depending on what type of animal you have, it will need to be to be fed daily or every other day. Most people buy enough crickets to feed their pet for a week. So, what do with the crickets for a week? A pet store should carry some kind of small holding container that will be suitable for crickets. Placing toilet paper tubes or ripped up egg cartons in the container will prevent the crickets from damaging their exoskeletons.

Giving crickets water can be done by using a shallow dish with a rock in the middle to keep the crickets from drowning and contaminating the water. This dish should be cleaned every day. For pinheads through two week old crickets a moist sponge would be more suitable than a dish. Crickets are omnivores and will eat a variety of foods. Feed them fresh fruits and vegetables (oranges, apples, carrots, and potatoes work well), dog food kibbles, or fish flake food. Some pet stores carry a commercially made, high-calcium enriched cricket diet that can be used as well. It is very important to feed the crickets before feeding them to your pet, because what the crickets have eaten is what your animal is eating too. When the cricket has not eaten in 24 hours, it is no longer nutritious.

Only feed as many crickets as your pet will eat at one sitting or hunting period. Having uneaten crickets running loose in the cage can be stressful to your animal. Crickets may also try to bite your pet while it is sleeping.

Waxworms (Galleria mellanella)

Waxworms are a moth larva that can usually found at pet stores, bait shops, or aviaries. Waxworms are generally kept in wood shavings and should be housed at temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees F to keep the worm's metabolism slow. Otherwise, the worms will starve to death. Since these worms are not fed anything, the way to insure your pet is receiving some nutritional value is to sprinkle calcium and vitamin powders on the worms prior to feeding them to your animal.

These worms seem to be like candy, and most birds and reptiles will devour them readily. Waxworms are high in fat and are recommended only as a diet supplement. The worm's exoskeleton can be hard for animals to digest. If waxworms are fed in excess, they could cause obesity and / or intestinal blockage. When used in moderation, waxworms are a wonderful way to put weight on an underweight animal.

Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor, Zoophobas sp.)

Mealworms are a larval form of a darkling beetle. There are two different types of mealworms that are available in the pet trade. The Tenebrio worm is smaller and is usually packaged in bran, then stored in the refrigerator for up to a month. Zoophobas worms are much larger and are kept at room temperature. The size of your pet will determine which type of worm to feed.

Like waxworms, mealworms should not be fed exclusively to your animal. Mealworm exoskeletons are somewhat difficult for the animal to digest so only feed a few at a time. If your pet eats too many mealworms at a sitting, they may be regurgitated, so it is a good idea to feed mealworms only once or twice weekly.

By Phaedra Dunko

By Ronda Pedee

The term "new tank syndrome" is a catch-all phrase describing several set-backs that commonly occur in a newly set up aquarium. High levels of ammonia and / or nitrites, the parasite Ichthyophihirius, and white cloudy water are all unwanted visitors in a new tank.

High levels of ammonia and nitrites are easily avoided by following three steps. First, add fish to a new tank over a course of several weeks. The fewer fish in the tank, the less ammonia produced. Second, feed the fish sparingly once or twice a day. Extra decomposing food and a surplus of fish waste will create water quality problems. The third rule for keeping ammonia and nitrite levels low is changing one-third of the water on a weekly basis for the first two months that a tank is set up.

Ichthypophthirius, nicknamed Ich, is a parasite that fish become especially susceptible to when they are stressed. The stressor could be incorrect water temperatures, incorrect pH, high ammonia, nitrites or nitrates, incompatibility of the fish in the tank, or transferring the fish from wholesaler to pet store to your home. To reduce the chances of your fish getting ich, do a water change before adding new fish, test the pH and ammonia levels, and use a water conditioner that helps reduce stress in fish.

The third component of "new tank syndrome" involves the water turning cloudy white shortly after setting up the tank. The cloudiness is caused by either over-feeding or a bacterial bloom. If you suspect you are guilty of over-feeding, do a water change and vacuum the extra food out of the gravel, then feed less.

If over-feeding is not to blame for the cloudy water, then a bacterial bloom is taking place and the water will clear up in about one week. To speed up the process, water changes will help, as will adding a clarifying product such as Brite-n-Clear or Filter Aid to external power filters.

Starting off right with a new aquarium can be easily accomplished by lightly stocking the tank with fish, resisting the urge to over-feed, and doing partial water changes on a regular basis.

By Ronda Pedee

Salmonella are an infamous group of potentially harmful bacteria that can be passed from animals to humans. The most common route of human infection is through oral ingestion, but infection may also occur through an open cut. Recent publicity has implicated reptiles as one of the main sources of Salmonella infections. However, Salmonella is most often contracted from eating undercooked poultry, beef, and pork. Current literatures includes all animals as possible Salmonella carriers, as well as milk, fruit, and vegetables, and not just from food animals. The increase in reptiles-related salmonellosis is most likely due to the rise in popularity as pets that reptiles have experienced in the past several years.

There are 200 or so types of Salmonella bacteria that may be found in the normal gut flora of reptiles. Periodically, these bacteria are shed in the reptile's feces, and may then be passed on to other animals (including humans) that come into contact with the feces. Humans who contract salmonellosis may experience mild flu-like symptoms for a day or two. In infants or the elderly, or in people with immune disorders, Salmonella can be potentially harmful. In extreme cases, it may result in severe dehydration or death.

Reptile feces may be tested for Salmonella, but a negative test does not necessarily mean the animal does not carry the bacteria, since Salmonella is not shed with every bowel movement. Whether or not one should treat is a normal part of the gut flora.

Reptile owners who follow the cleanliness guidelines listed below can easily avoid becoming infected with salmonellosis. The risk of contracting Salmonella from poultry and other meats is much greater than the risk of becoming infected from a pet turtle, snake, or lizard. Here are a few precautions that reptile owners should take to avoid contracting salmonellosis.

• Wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap after handling a reptile.
• Keep reptiles out of kitchens, sinks, and other areas where food is prepared or stored.
• Don't clean reptile cages or accessories in kitchen sinks.
• Don't kiss your reptile.
• Keep reptile enclosures clean.
• Use caution when reptiles are in the same household as children under 5 years of age, elderly people, and people with immune disorders.

By Sharon Wright

These arachnids are descended from the trigontarbids of upper Silurian around 420 million years ago. The name tarantula has become commonly accepted for a large group of spiders with similar characteristics. However most are not true tarantulas. The name actually refers to a small group of spiders in southern Europe with a venomous bite, not however dangerous to humans.

All spiders are members of the Anachnida Class. This class also includes Scorpions, ticks, crabs and mites. All arachnids have four pairs of legs and several have two claw-like appendages called pulps. The group commonly known as tarantulas vary from other spiders due to these characteristics:

• They breathe using two pairs of book lungs.
• They have fangs that move up and down instead of sideways.
• They have two claws, and adhesive pads on each foot.

Tarantulas are found on most major continents of the world except for Greenland and Antarctica. Their habitats range from tree dwellers to ones that live in underground burrows.

Most males die within a short period of time after reaching sexual maturity. While females can live much longer and are capable of mating for several years. They could possibly produce several hundred to several thousand spiderlings. As a rule immature males and adult females look almost identical. Sexually mature males my be identified by small shiny bulb-like structures underneath the tips of their pedipalps, with a tiny hollow spine-like projection. Also on the end of the tibia of each front pair of legs will usually be seen a hook like structure. I have had people say you can determine sex by the shape of the abdomen but I can not find any documentation to back up this claim.

There are quite a few possible problems a tarantula can run into in captivity. The most common of these being mites. Mites can be introduced into the enclosure an just about anything placed in the cage. A few mites would not be a problem however a large population of mites could endanger your tarantulas life. These parasites multiply quickly if your enclosure is kept to moist, or uneaten prey remains in the cage. Yet another health problem is anorexia. Tarantulas may stop eating for any number of reasons. Some of these are:

• They may be going into a molt.
• The temperature in the enclosure is to cold. Most tarantulas stop eating below 75 degrees or so.
• The humidity in the enclosure drops too low.

Molting can be a dangerous if not life threatening time for your spider. If the humidity in the cage is to low the molt may not be completed and the tarantula will become trapped in the old exoskeleton. Spiderlings may molt as often as once a month. Subadults will shed every three to four months. Adult males will usually not shed after they reach sexual maturity. Females, however, molt several times during their adulthood.

When going into a molt a tarantula will stop eating for up to several weeks. They will spin a webbed mat to use while molting. A terrestrial spider will lie on its back atop this mat to molt. Arboreal tarantulas will molt while on their back inside a sleeve of webbing. If you find your spider on its back do not turn it over. Doing this is the same as signing its death warrant. No crickets should be allowed to remain in the cage during a molt. Spiders are helpless at this time and could actually be killed by a cricket. After completing a molt the new cuticle is soft and flexible for up to a week. Handling or feeding of your tarantula should be avoided during this time. A young spider can molt completely in a matter of a few hours. An older one may take as long as over night.

When looking at a tarantula you may notice a bald spot on the abdomen. This is somewhat normal however if this hair loss seems to be continuous it my be a reaction to stress inside the enclosure, or movement outside the cage. The lost hair will be replaced with the next molt.

Tarantulas have been cast as a villain for far too long. From being thought to cause to cause madness in southern Europe. To being portrayed as blood thirsty creatures hunting in a pack. Webbing and then eating all life in a large section of southern California in the films.

These are very beautiful and useful animals that also make very interesting pets, As the keeping of tarantulas become more popular more will be learned about these some times terrifying yet always beautiful creatures.

By Sharon Wright

The name "parakeet" is commonly used for these colorful birds in the pet trade. However, the correct name is budgerigar or budgie for short. "Parakeet" refers to the genus Platycercini, which includes all flat-tailed parrots. The name budgerigar comes from the Aborigines, who called these birds "btcherrygah," which means good meal. Budgies are the most popular pet bird in the world, and there are millions of budgies in the wild.

Budgies are native to central Australia, where they can be found living in large flocks of a few thousand or more. In their wild state, they are smaller than the domestic version, measuring 6.5 to 7.5 inches from beak to tail. The wild birds are mostly green with brown or black stripes on the wings and head.

A basic, well-balanced prepared bird seed mix is a good staple diet. Often the mixtures have already been enriched with he vitamins and minerals your bird needs. Spray millet is a favorite food that is also healthy. However, millet should be fed sparingly because too much will cause the budgie to put on excess weight. A wide selection of fruits and vegetables is also a vital part of the diet. Newly sprouted seeds and wheat grass are also good supplements.

When considering housing there are a few important points to keep in mind. The cage should be large enough for the bird to stretch and fly a short distance. Perches should be placed to allow for flight space and easy access to food and water dishes and toys. Ease of cleaning is also an important consideration. A large indoor aviary would be spacious enough for several pairs of budgies but not suitable for a single bird.

In the wild budgies breed in cavities of trees leaving the hollows free of nesting material. Nesting boxes should be used to simulate a tree cavity, and nesting material does not need to be provided. Most hens prefer a perch located just below the entrance to the box. Always furnish more nesting boxes than you have breeding pairs. This will help prevent "arguments" over nesting locations. All boxes should be placed at the same height.

Once laying begins, eggs will be laid in intervals of one every one to two days. The average clutch size is three to five eggs. Usually the hen will do all of the brooding, leaving the eggs alone only to defecate elsewhere. The length of incubation is generally eighteen days. By the time the chicks are four to five weeks old, they are ready to leave the nest.

Budgies become easily bored when kept alone. Unless you can spend plenty of time playing and interacting with your bird, you should definitely consider keeping two birds together. Being a flock bird, a group of budgies is needed to spark breeding behavior. If you do not intend to breed your birds, keeping two males together would be the best choice. Hens have a tendency to argue when caged together as a pair. When keeping a single bird, provide a variety of toys to keep your budgies amused while you are away. Having budgies as members of your family can be a great source of joy and entertainment. However, they are also a larger responsibility that should be considered prior to buying any pet.

By Phaedra Dunko

A single strand of a spider's web may consist of several thousand separate filaments. On the creature's abdomen are four to six teat like organs. Through several hundred minute tubes, each organ secretes a viscous fluid that hardens immediately when exposed to air. The spider attaches its abdomen to some solid object and pulls the threads by moving its body forward. The hind feet are used to bring the hundreds of filaments into a single thread.

By Ronda Pedee

Ball Pythons ( Python reguis ) are one the most popular snakes in the pet trade due to their manageable size, attractive color and pattern, and low cost. Unfortunately, they can also be one the more frustrating species to maintain. After a brief introduction to the natural history of ball pythons,  Will weigh the pros and cons of ball python ownership and give some tips on successful maintenance.

The ball python is found in several African providence's from Senegal to Sudan, and is a terrestrial species that prefers to live in burrows. It earned its common name from its tendency to cur into a tight ball when disturbed. In Europe, however, the ball python is known as a "royal python", from its scientific name Python reguis. There is a deal of variation in the adult size of ball pythons. Males typically reach a length of 3 to 4 feet, while females may reach up to 5 feet. In the wild, ball pythons may grow up to 6 feet.

A docile species, the ball python makes a good "pet snake" because of its reluctance to bite and slow movements. As an adult, it can be kept in a cage with floor dimensions of 36 x 12 inches. The average life span of a ball python is 20 to 25 years, As hatchlings; ball pythons will consume small mice. Adult ball pythons can eat small to large-sized rats, depending on the size of the snake.

One of the most frequent complaints about ball pythons is their reluctance to eat. Many wild-caught balls will quit eating for several months, and may even fast for a year of more. Another common problem with wild-caught ball pythons is parasites. Often the pythons are infested with mites and ticks, as well as internal protozoa.

The best advice to someone interested in buying a ball python: Buy captive bred! Captively produced ball pythons rarely have eating disorders or the assorted parasites found in wild caught snakes. If you already own a wild ball python that sporadically, do not panic. Snakes with good body weight can live for several months without eating. Reluctant eaters will often readily consume gerbils, which are what balls eat in the wild. However, once a ball python tastes gerbil, it may never want to eat mice or rats again.

Other helpful hints to ball python owners include providing a basking area of 95 degrees F and a hide box in the animal's enclosure. Having a stool sample checked by a vet will also determine the presence of internal parasites. For more information on captive maintenance of ball pythons, including breeding and various color morphs read " The Ball Python Manual" published by Advanced Vivarium Systems.

By Rachael Hanft

~3 T each of assorted legumes ( green & yellow split peas; pink, brown, yellow lentils, etc... )
~ 3T each of assorted rices of long cooking grains ( pearl barley, Quinoa, millet...)
1-2 carrots, shredded
3 stalks celery, thinly sliced
2-3 handfuls fresh or frozen mixed vegetables ( green peas, corn kernels, green limas... )
~1 tsp whole allspice, crushed
1 stick cinnamon, crushed
1-2 cloves star anise, crushed
1 bunch fresh parsley leaves
3 handfuls fresh greens ( spinach, chard, kale... ) blanched & chopped

Sort and rinse lentils and grains. Place in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover and simer about 15 minutes. Add vegetables and spices. Cover and simmer 15 minutes more till grains and lentils are tender. Add parsley and greens and cook 5 minutes more. Cover and let stand 5 minutes. Cool to room temperature and serve or freeze.

By Beverly Trulson

1 box Jiffy corn bread muffin mix
4 eggs (include the shells )
2 sprays of millet ( stripped off the stem)
1 heaping cup of shredded carrot or sweet potato

Mix above ingredients well. Choose a few additional ingredients from the list below. Add them and mix well. Grease the pan. Bake at 400 degrees F until a toothpick stuck in the middle comes out clean. About 25 - 30 minutes.

Extras

Dried fruit chopped nuts
pinch of cinnamon shredded cheese
frozen vegetables fresh vegetables ( broccoli, etc. )
fresh fruit (apples, etc...) berries
pretty bird pellet food pinch of allspice
granola

TIPS*

Egg with the shell, is easiest to blend with either a food processor or a blender

When adding extra goodies try not to add too many wet ones. When using this many eggs it needs to be cooked throughly.

When there is too much bread mix, make it into muffins or pancakes

I only have one parakeet that is too much! No just cut into one inch cubes, stick them in a plastic bag and freeze them. When it is time to serve, take out one cube, microwave it lightly and the bird has a nice warm treat.

Last tip. Label this bread well. Loved ones, of the people variety, will not appreciate it as much as the bird. It is a little crunchy.

By Phaedra Dunko

Whites Treefrogs ( Litoria caerulea ) are considered to one of the best frogs for a beginning amphibian keeper. Whites are quite hardy and are long lived. Normal life span is about 15 years. Robust with everything they do, whether it be jumping the length of the tank in one fell swoop, or watching a cricket cowering by. Here are a few points to enhancing your habitat and husbandry.

CAGING: These frogs do require large terrariums. Females can grow up to 4 1/2" in length. Where as males only grow up to 2 1/2" or so. One frog could live in a ten gallon tank. Though two or more will need something larger. One thing to consider, these frogs do not discriminate food items so do not put small frogs in with larger frogs. Use a screen top or mesh top on the top of the tank. This will insure enough air flow in the tank, and will keep unwanted hands or paws getting in to the tank.

LIGHTING & HEATING: Whites prefer a high daytime temperature range between 80*F - 85*F. Night time lows around 70*F - 74*F. This can be achieved by using a hardware lamp and an incandescent bulb. For lighting use a full spectrum fluorescent bulb. Have the fluorescent light on for 12 hours, and off for 12 hours everyday. This light helps the plants growth and may help the frogs synthesize vitamins and calcium as well as give them a healthy color tone.

LANDSCAPING: Whites like most amphibians require a water source around them all the time. Highly recommend a waterfall or recycling water of some sort. Otherwise, diligent cleaning of the water dish will need to be done daily. Substrate options are: Peat moss, or river rock: ( river rock must large enough so that the animal will not ingest any. ) The river rock is good for a submerged pump to recycle the water. Put about 3" of rock into the tank and cover the pump in the back corner. Run the tubing from the pump to wherever in the to create the waterfall. Use plants that are thickly stalked or have strong leaves because they will be abused by these active frogs. Use of wood in the terrarium will add layers to the tank. Mopani wood, African bog wood and corkbark all seem to do fine. Though mopani wood will mold in water which is not good for the frogs. Corkbark does float in the water and can be good for rescuing crickets and other prey items from drowning.

FOOD: These frogs are usually not picky about their food. Crickets, waxworms, moths, spiders, flies, and the occasional pink mouse all seem to be relished eagerly by the frogs. Make sure the food items are dusted in a calcium and vitamins supplement twice a week. Feed young frogs everyday. Adult frogs should be fed twice to three times a week.

HANDLING: One thing to remember when handling any amphibian they absorb everything through their skin. So, whatever is on your hands there is a good chance that the frog will have it too. Remember to WASH your hands before and after handling. Whites are a little more tolerant about be held than some other frogs. Though, handling these frogs is not recommended for long periods of time.

By Phaedra Dunko

Ticks, remote relatives of the spiders, smell with their front legs. When these legs are amputated the tick shows no reaction to odors. It can not smell blood but will feed on any sort of liquid sucked through a warm moist membrane such as skin. Presumably ticks in nature recognize an animal as a proper source of food by smell, while a combination of warmth and moisture from the skin gives a stimulus for feeding.

By Rachael Hanft

Imagine a world where all your needs are provided such as warmth, shelter and food. The same thing everytime. Even if it were your favorite food in the whole world, wouldn't you get tired of it? In addition to being boring, this kind of diet is nutritionally inadequate. It also seems that nutritionally balanced pellet foods must seem terribly bland to our animal friends. Our pets depend on us to provide them with a varied and balanced diet. Most of us know that it is a punishable offense to feed table scraps to the family dog or cat, especially if you happen to be sneaking things off your plate and under the table. Indeed some of our feathered friends would rather share our plates than eat seeds. Rather than scolding them, give him a plate of "people food".

Certain guidelines should be followed in sharing your dinner with your pet bird. As a general rule, if it is good for you it is good for the bird. Fruits and vegetables, rice and other grains cooked into pilafs, breads, and crackers... A few things to avoid are avocado, chocolate, and any pits of fruits such as peaches. Things like meat, cheese and other dairy products, sugars, and oily foods try to feed sparingly.

Just like people, birds can become overweight. Birds are also susceptible to nutritional deficiences when fed exclusive diets. Even a mixture of seeds provides only a limited supply of nutrients. Most seeds are rich in proteins or amino acids. However, most of these are incomplete and require a complementary protein. Seeds are also generally lacking in the other vitamins and minerals that are required by our bodies to keep functioning. Good sources of these nutrients include a variety of dark leafy greens, sprouts ( alfalfa, clover, etc... ), yams, apples, etc. Supplementing the basic seed diet for your specific type of bird with offerings of undressed salads or thawed frozen mixed vegetables is a convenient way to introduce new foods into yours bird's diet.

Most birds, like people, are problem eaters. They pick out their favorite seed from the mix and leave the rest, or would rather play with a food item a few minutes before tossing it on the floor. Rather than try to force the animal to eat a new food by removing the he's accostomed to getting, offer smaller rations of seed and increase the amount of more varied and nutritious "people food". Using feeding time as social time can be helpful in switching the bird over to a fresher diet.

Birds are social creatures and spend much time searching out food together as a flock. If you can arrange a time to feast with the bird , he will feel more inclined to try those strange new items. Instead of simply filling a dish and setting it in the cage, turn dinner into a game-make him find some of his favorite foods in new places ( this is also helpful in training sessions ). For example, wedge a piece of apple or orange betwen the bars of the cage.

There are some recipes included that can be frozen in individual portions ( such as ice cubes trays ) for convenient meals. Any combination of legumes and grains can be used along with fresh or frozen mixed vegetables to make a complete one dish meal. They are also excellent as side dishes to the family dinner. Keep in mind that birds like contrasting colors and fragance. Most parrot-like birds would gnaw for hours on a dried chili pepper without batting an eye.

By Sharon Wright

The zebra finch is the most popular and most readily available of all fiches, and the price is very low. Not only are they easy to breed, but they are also very attractive birds. The zebra finch has many color variations. The original or wild Australian variety is the Gray Zebra. Some of the other color mutations include silver, white, chestnut-flanked, penguin, pied, fawn, cinnamon, and cream. However, some of these color variations are still fairly rare in the United States.

Adult zebra finches are approximately four inches in length, including the tail which is one and one-quarter inches. The males have a bright red-orange beak, whereas the female is much paler and orange. The cocks also have orange cheek patches and zebra-like barring on the breast, However, on the hens these markings are absent giving her a much duller appearance.

Opinions on housing needs for zebra finches vary greatly. Some say they will do well in small enclosures. I personally would not recommend anything smaller than a 12x12x12-inch cage for two birds. Generally, finches do better in a group because of their social nature. A nice sized flight of 4x4x8 feet would be a great environment for a small, active flock.

Dietary needs of these birds can not be met properly with a seed diet. By simply augmenting with grit, greens, a vitamin supplement and a cuttlebone, you should be able to fill the dietary needs of your zebra finches. With the addition of some insects such as mealworms or waxworms, you will have happy and healthy zebra finches. The inclusion of the insects in the diet is especially helpful during breeding, as is adding a hard-boiled egg that has been mashed up with the shell included. The shell will provide extra calcium for pregnant females.