JTR Slipper (back torque limiting) Clutch Assembly - Honda RVT1000R (RC51)

Installation Notes:

Remove clutch cover - leave bolts in the holes to keep them in the proper hole for reassembly.

Unscrew clutch spring bolts and remove - set aside, they are not used again

Remove pressure plate (#8) and clutch plates - lay them front side down on a clean surface in the order removed. A small screwdriver helps snag the deeper ones.

You can remove the clutch bearing (#22) but a new one is only about $10 [Honda Part# 91009-MAS-003]. How you get it out w/o screwing it up is your problem - you really need a press etc.

If you use a new one - recommended - Put the bearing in your freezer for an hour or two and the basket in the over at say 250 degrees or so. The bearing will slide right in with about zero effort and when they cool/warm back to the same temp it will fit tight.

Watch out for clutch actuator (item #9 in the diagram0 as it will creep out due to gravity of the clutch fluid. You can push it back in with your hand - if you get stuck during installation - put the clutch pressure plate back on and a couple springs / bolts to hold it in place.

Pull the clutch hub (#4) off - look at the back side of it for the (thrust washer) item #22 it may be stuck to the hub. You will reuse this item in the same place BEHIND the new inner hub you are about to install.

Put the thrust washer (Item #22) back onto the clutch basket.

Install new clutch base (inner hub) with the ramps - press into place - tap with soft mallet to make sure it seats against the thrust washer and clutch basket. You can tell when it seats by the change in tone of the thud when you tap it.

Put some heavy grease on the six ramps of the NEW clutch inner hub and carefully place a bearing on each one of the ramps. I used a piece of thick paper (Honda Parts Tag) at the bottom of inside of the main clutch basket just in case any bearing fell out during install - keeps them out of the crankcase if you drop a bearing.

Install the new clutch outer hub agianst the inner hub with the bearings.

Install spider spring.

Install silver washer/spacer supplied with slipper clutch
**Do not use the thick outer washer on the factory clutch

Install a new 12 pt nut [Honda part # 90231-MS2-610] and torque - stake when you are sure all is OK. You will know everything is tight and seated when you see about 2 threads left on the shaft.

** Note: I have confirmed with other installations that the hub will have some slack/slop in it when installed - this will be taken up when the pressure plate and springs are in stalled.

Replace all the clutch plates back in reverse order - I think the last one goes into a shallow slot on the (main) clutch basket. The first and last plates have a different color painted on the side in case you get them mixed up.

Install the NEW pressure plate.

Install springs and bolts - tighten to 4 ft/#'s.

Replace the cover and body panel.

Test ride.

You coffee should still be warm or your beer still cold.

You should have the following parts leftover:
OEM Pressure Plate / clutch springs / bolts / washers
OEM cutch hub
OEM FAT outer washer
[Maybe the old 12pt nut if you installed a new one]