See http://www.nps.gov/glac/ for
Glacier's official site.
Note that all the trails are well defined and there are distance to go
markers at the start and at each trail junction (some with both miles
and kilometers, some with just one or the other).
Note that the Going-to-the-Sun Road is closed in the winter (generally
open mid-May to mid-September) and vehicles longer than 21 feet and/or
wider than 8 feet are prohibited on a large section of the road. There
is also likely to be one or two sections of the road under road construction
with a stop light (only one-lane available for traffic) and up to a 15
minute delay for each light.
The west side of the park receives more visitors, but (in my opinion) the
east is the prettier area and has more trails; so if you can, try to stay
on the east side of the park [and FYI, Kalispell is a long drive from the
east side of the park]. I stayed in Rising Sun the whole time. The in-park
hotels and campsites do fill up during the summer, so make your
reservations as far in advances as you can.
Also note that Waterton Lakes National Park (Canada) is about an hour
drive north of St. Mary's and has some pretty hikes as well (you will need
your passport to cross the boarder).
Montana Pictures (28 pictures)
Avalanche Lake (Lake McDonald)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Avalanche Lake campground turn off.
Turn into the campground area and there is a parking area a
short ways ahead. There are bathrooms a short ways ahead on
the Trail of the Cedars, just before the Avalanche Lake branch.
Smelly outhouses just before the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The hike to Avalanche Lake starts on the paved Trail of the
Cedars loop (.4 mile loop). At the top of the loop is the
junction for the Avalanche Lake trail (there is a small sign).
The Avalanche Lake trail is a wide (2 to 3 person width),
packed dirt (with some gravel spots) trail that goes for 2
miles up to the lake, often along a creek that comes down from
the lake. It is probably also one of the two most heavily used
trails in the park - don't expect solitude. The trail starts
with a climb for a short ways and then has small ups and downs
for about a mile. When you reach a good climb followed by a
long descent, that is the end of the ups and downs and the rest
is up until near the lake. It's not a steep climb, but it
seems to go on forever. Once you reach the lake, enjoy the
views. Walk some to the right of the lake to find a spot to
relax and enjoy the scenery with fewer people (most stay near
the tail of the lake). The good sized pretty mountain lake is
in a large granite bowl with a couple of waterfalls coming down
the mountains.
Trail Length + Elevation:
2 miles, +500 feet one-way
Area:
Forest, mountain lake, waterfalls, mountains
Picture
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, August 10, 2004
Recommendation:
It is a very pretty lake and worthy of your time, despite all
the people.
Hidden Lake (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Logan Pass parking lot.
Flush toilets at the visitor center.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
From the Logans Pass parking lot, the trail heads up above the
visitor center. It is paved for a very short ways and then a
wide boardwalk for a very long ways, with steps along the way
(and a couple of short rocky areas). Note that the trail is
open (no tree cover) until near the lake. You start heading
up immediately and continue up until you reach the small pond.
Along the way, you may see a herd of bighorn sheep in the
fields (and they pay no mind to the people). As you get
closer to the rocky slopes, keep an eye out for mountain goats.
The boardwalk ends around the small falls and it is a dirt,
rocky trail the rest of the way (except for the observation
area). Often there are wonderful reflection views on the
small pond just ahead (and a good place to pause or stop and
catch your breath). It is a mild trail and not too much
farther from the pond to the boardwalk overlook observation
area. It's 1.5 miles from the start to the observation area.
From the observation area, you get a wonderful view down on
the very large Hidden Lake. The trail narrows and is dirt
past the observation area and the crowds stay behind as it
heads down, with a couple of switchbacks, for 1.5 miles to the
lake. Keep in mind that it is a one-way trail, so you have to
go back up what you are coming down. The trail ends at the
tail of the lake. To the left, you can wander a ways. To the
right, you can wander a ways to near the top of Hidden Lake
Falls (no view of the falls, though). There looks to be a
trail on the other side of the creek (wet water crossing)
where the lake ends, but there is no defined trail that goes
around the lake. Find a nice spot to relax and maybe eat
breakfast (as I did) or lunch. It is a workout from the lake
back to the observation area. From Logans Pass to the
observation area is probably one of the two most used trails
in the park. If you go around sunrise, you can avoid the
crowds. I had the trail almost to myself with a hike that
started around 7 am, but there were a ton of people when I
later went back and did a late afternoon hike.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 6 miles, 960 feet
1.5 miles, +460 feet to observation area (one-way)
1.5 miles, about -500 feet from observation area to lake (one-way)
Area:
Mountains, mountain goats, bighorn sheep, large mountain
lake, wonderful views
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Thursday, August 5, 2004; Wednesday, August 11, 2004 (just to
the overlook); Wednesday, July 27, 2005 (to overlook); Monday,
September 11, 2006 (to overlook); Saturday, August 25, 2007 (to
overlook)
Recommendation:
A must, at least to the observation area (the lake is pretty
too, but some may rather not put out the effort) - and go a
little bit past the observation area (before the down) for
more views. There is a reason it is so popular. The views
for each step are wonderful and you'll likely see some wild
life.
Gunsight Lake (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Gunsight Lake road-side parking
area (near Jackson Glacier Overlook area and on the west side
of Logan Pass) - the trailhead is at the east end of the
parking area. No facilities at the parking area - there is
a chemical toilet a short ways west on the road. Outhouse
in campground area (to the right of the food prepartion
area).
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
[Note: for some strange reason, all the trail signs along
this hike list just kilometers - no miles.] This one-person
width dirt trail starts with a mile descent into the valley
[which is annoying on the return leg]. After crossing the
bridge over the river (which feeds St Mary Falls), the trail
is mild for a good ways in being fairly level with some ups
and downs along the way, but no major climbs. After about 4
miles, you will reach the junction for Florence Falls - skip
them. It's about half a mile and 150 feet gained from the
junction to the falls, then back. The falls trail is well
overgrown - sometimes I couldn't see the ground through the
brush - and the falls are not worth the effort and annoyance
of wading through brush (no views of the falls from the
Gunsight Lake trail, though). Back on the Gunsight Lake
trail, a short ways past the junction the trail goes over a
bridge (and it is a nice resting spot). When you reach an
open grassy area, the easy part is over and the trail starts
it's climb - over the next 30 minutes or so of heading up. Up
to this point, the trail has been in the forest. For the rest
of the way, it is more of an open hike with some small bits of
shade - which is actually good as there are wonderful views of
Jackson and Blackfoot Glaciers. The lake is in a bowl with
the mountain the trail goes along as one of its sides (so, no,
you are not heading towards the snowy mountain peaks you see
across the way). Once you finally finish the climb, you still
have a bit to go. The trail levels out and there is an open
area, then a tree area, and then another open area before
finally reaching the campground area (and getting your first
glimpse of the lake). One access point to the lake (it is
surrounded by trees on this side of the lake) is following the
trail as it curves left and then take a short right to a short
stretch of open shore. It is a beautiful, peaceful nice sized
lake in a mountain bowl with a couple of waterfalls and a
small glacier above. Ahhh.
For my 2007 trip, I elected to hike 3 miles of Sun Point Trail
instead of the usual 1 mile last up - the new park shuttle
gave me this option. It was a blah hike that only once went
next to the river and the rest was through the trees. It
doesn't go next to St Mary's Falls (.6 miles one-way). It
does go next to the uneventful Baring Falls and there were
some nice lake views near the end (but you can see those by
simply visiting Sun Point). Recommendation: simply hike the
1 mile back out and skip Sun Point Trail.
Trail Length + Elevation:
6.2 miles, +500 feet to lake (one-way), add about 1.2 miles and
150 feet (gained then lossed) if you take the side trip to
Florence Falls
3 miles, +1600 feet from Gunsight Lake to Gunsight Pass
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake, glacier views, waterfalls
Picture
When I did the hike:
Wednesday, August 11, 2004; Tuesday, September 12, 2006 (to
lake and Gunsight Pass); Sunday, August 26, 2007 (to lake and
half way up pass)
Recommendation:
You know you really liked a placed if you are already planning
on how you'd do the hike the next time you visit [see below].
It's a beautiful lake with great views of glaciers along the
hike. As a bonus, it is not heavily used due to the distance
(even though it is a milder hike than some of the shorter
distance trails that reach a mountain lake). My favorite
place in the park. I also recommend heading up to the pass
(or part way if you don't have energy/time/... to go the
extra 3 miles, 1600 feet) for magnificent views. There is
also a 2 mile trail from the lake to a view point for Jackson
Glacier (haven't done it - planned on it in my last visit,
but going up the pass was just to enticing).
Gunsight Lake to Sperry Chalet (Logan Pass)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Gunsight Lake road-side parking
area (near Jackson Glacier Overlook area and on the west side
of Logan Pass) - the trailhead is at the east end of the
parking area. No facilities at the parking area - there is
a chemical toilet a short ways west on the road. Outhouses
in the campgrounds at the lakes.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The outing that brought me back to Glacier. See the above
writeup for the hike to Gunsight Lake. After resting at the
lake, the trail continues from near the shore and crosses the
creek with a suspension bridge and then heads right and starts
going up. And up, and up, and up. You'll want to take a
number of rests along the way to catch your breath and enjoy
the spectacular views. I can't even begin to describe how
amazing the views are heading up to the pass - worth doing
even if you are doing just a there-and-back (in other words,
don't simply stop at Gunsight Lake). At the pass is an old
shelter cabin (without a roof). Take a longer rest at the
pass and enjoy the many views. Next comes the down, down,
down to Lake Ellen Wilson. After the last switchback down,
there is a wet water crossing in front of a small waterfall.
The trail does stay well above Lake Ellen Wilson the entire
way around the lake - you have to take a .5 mile sidetrip
down to the campground if you want to get lake side. The
good news is all the pretty views of and around Lake Ellen
Wilson. The bad news is that there is yet another climb
ahead. The trail goes up from Lake Ellen Wilson, rounds the
bend and continues up and eventually reaches Lincoln Pass.
By this time, you are likely very, very tired. The rest is
down hill, but it is still over a mile to Sperry Chalet.
The chalet is very nice ($155 in 2005) with beds and full
meals [but no showers]. There is food, running water, and
toilets at the chalet (even for those who don't stay). From
the chalet, there is a trail that heads 3.5 miles and over
1600 feet gained to Sperry Glacier. For the return trip,
you can either go back the way you came (which I did as I
was so enamored with Gunsight Pass and Gunsight Lake) or
take the 6.7 miles, 3300 drop to Lake McDonald and catch the
shuttle back to the parking lot [or start with the shuttle
to the parking lot and leave the car at Lake McDonald] [most
Sperry Chalet guests come up from Lake McDonald].
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 13.9 miles, 3100 feet gained
6.2 miles, +500 feet to Gunsight Lake
3 miles, +1600 feet from Gunsight Lake to Gunsight Pass
2 miles, -900 feet from Gunsight Pass to Lake Ellen Wilson
1.7 miles, +1000 feet from Lake Ellen Wilson to Lincoln Pass
1 miles, -450 feet down from Lincoln Pass to Sperry Chalet
Area:
Mountains, mountain lake, glacier views, waterfalls
When I did the hike:
Sunday+Monday, July 24+25, 2005
Recommendation:
Simply wonderful. It is a really long hike, but well worth
all the effort. Reservations are needed for Sperry Chalet.
See http://www.sperrychalet.com/ for reservation information.
Siyeh Pass (Logan Pass)
Directions:
In Glacier, Going-to-the-Sun Road to the Piegan Pass/Siyeh Bend
stop.
No facilities.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The trail starts next to a creek for a very short bit and then
heads through the trees at a mild up for 2.7 miles to the
Piegan Pass junction - take a right at the junction. Once you
cross the bridge shortly before the junction, the trail is
surprisingly mild for a ways. Then comes the fun part as the
trail starts heading up, up, up to the pass. The pass is not
the ridge straight ahead that you think it is, but a lot higher
up. And the hike up to the pass and down on the other side is
open - almost no trees until the last couple of miles. For my
hike, it was really, really, really windy (don't recommend doing
the hike on such a windy day). On the way up to the pass, there
are great views back of Pollock Mountain as well as a small snow
melt lake at the foot of Mt. Siyeh as the trail switchbacks up,
up, up. Once getting above the false pass, you get great views
down an unnamed valley (not labeled on any of my maps), with
some small lakes, all the way out to the plains. On the other
side of the real pass, the trail switchbacks down (annoyingly so
as some of the switchbacks are too gentle) and you get grand
views of the Sunrift valley including Matahpi Mountain and its
glaciers and several tall waterfalls coming off them. Skip the
sidetrip to the right to a glacier view point - the "trail" soon
ends and you have to make your way through the rocks and
boulders to even get somewhat close to the glacier, and even
then the view from the pass trail is better. Once you pass
through the tree area (to the left, down, and ahead), the trail
continues through a long meadow at only a slight down for a good
ways before finally starting to head down again - the down
starts with a long switchback and then several shorter ones.
The trail reaches the creek (well before the many falls at the
top of the valley - no trail to those large falls). It is a
pretty area with small falls going through the red rock. Make
your way creek-side and find a nice resting spot to feet-soak
and relax - there is still a ways to go. The trail follows
along side (above) the creek for a little while. There is an
annoying up and then the trail heads into the trees and it is
blah the rest of the way. The trail ends at Sunrift Gorge on
Going-to-the-Sun Road. Take the free park shuttle back to
your starting point.
Trail Length + Elevation:
10.6 miles, 1900 feet
Area:
Mountains, mountain pass, valley views
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Recommendation:
It is a longer hike, but a very pretty hike. If you are in
Glacier for a long visit, sure (but I'd put at least 5 other
trails in the park higher on my to-do list).
St Mary Falls and Virginia Falls (Rising Sun)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to the St Mary Falls road-side parking area
(on the east side of Logan Pass). No facilities at the parking
area or on the trail.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Most of the 200 feet down comes early for the short hike to St
Mary Falls. It is a wide dirt trail - about 1 1/2 to 2 person
width. The falls are not that impressive - not very tall, but
a large amount of water coming down. After the bridge over
the river, the trail narrows some and starts heading up to
Virginia Falls. There are a couple of small falls and cascades
in the creek along the trail, but you will know when you reach
Virginia Falls. At the trail junction, continue heading up
about .2 miles to the base of this wonderful large dropping
falls - it is worth the effort. Back at the trail junction,
you can take a short side trip over the bridge for another view
of the falls from a little further away. Virginia Falls can be
seen from the Going-to-the-Sun road in the distance across the
lake (if you are looking for them).
Trail Length + Elevation:
.8 miles, -200 feet to St Mary Falls (one-way)
.7 miles, +200 feet from St Mary Falls to Virginia Falls (one-way)
Area:
Woods to falls
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 7, 2004
Recommendation:
If you have time to spare, Virginia Falls is very nice.
Otokomi Lake (Rising Sun)
Directions:
Going-to-the-Sun Road to Rising Sun. The trailhead is to the
left of the motel/store building. Restrooms at the store,
outhouse at the campground for the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The trail starts with an up and continues up most of the way
(there are 2 good sized downs along the way) heading up the
valley. As the valley turns left, the trail goes along the
far slope through a long talus slope (no shade). The trail
then drops down to the campground and it's a short ways ahead
to the lake. There are very few stopping spots along the
lake from the trail, but you can cross the creek (on branches
or wet water) and have better views and resting spots on the
left side of the lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5 miles, 1900 feet (one-way)
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
When I did the hike:
Saturday, July 23, 2005
Recommendation:
It is a pretty lake, but there are other lakes I'd put higher
on my list (if you have plenty of time, do it; if you are
there only for a short bit, do others).
Highline Trail and Swiftcurrent Trail or The Loop (Logan Pass to Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and take the road to the end and park in
the lot near the Swiftcurrent Motel. The 7:30 am hiker's shuttle
stop is in front of the motel where the sign is [the next pickup
isn't until 12:45 pm]. [Note that the park is in Mountain Time
Zone, says the duffus.]
Bathrooms at the visitor center at Logan Pass, chemical toilets
at the Granite Park Chalet.
$8 for hiker shuttle from Swiftcurrent to St Mary's and then
use the free Going-to-the-Sun park shuttle to Logans Pass
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
I did a large loop, but portions can also be done in shorter or
different hikes. The trail starts across the road from the Logan
Pass visitor center and heads along the mountain. It is mostly
an open hike (no shade) until passing the first of the lakes.
The trail is about 1 1/2 person width, so it is not too harrowing
even though you have the mountain wall to your right and the steep
mountain slope to your left [apparently many years ago it was
narrower with a rope for people to grab onto while they walked].
The "cliff" portion doesn't last too long (and there is a similar
section later on in the hike). It is very pretty and the views
all around are wonderful. The trail goes above the
Going-to-the-Sun road. If you are doing a there-and-back hike,
a good turning around spot is right before the long, one
switchback climb up a grassy slope - but there is no views down
to Lake McDonald until after the switchback. After that climb,
you will start to get views of the other side of the valley (but
still have a ways to go to the Chalet). Heck, when you finally
see the Chalet in the distance, you still have a ways to go (you
will eventually start seeing it - it is on a open mound and not
in a side canyon). You will also start having views all the way
down to Lake McDonald. .8 miles before the Chalet is a junction
with a hard right for the Grinnell Glacier Overlook. In 2007 I
finally took the right (after going, 'Oh, it's only .6 miles!).
But, oh, what a killer .6 miles it is. It is a steep, steep
huff-and-puffer up the talus slope that had me stopping (not
just pausing) every few steps to catch my breath. Oh, but what
a reward! It is an absolutely stunning view of the Grinnell
Glacier area (actually 2 glaciers now - an upper and lower)
from above. The view includes the glaciers, various mountains,
the large glacier lake, and some small glacial lakes on the
upper shelf. when you reach the view point, go up to the left
as far as you feel comfortable and sit and enjoy the magnificent
view. If your hike takes you to the chalet area, you absolutely
must exert the extra effort for this sidetrip. Back on the
Highline Trail, after a long 7.6 miles (it's not as level as
you'd think with the listing of just 200 feet gained, due to a
number of smaller ups and downs), you finally reach the Chalet
(need reservations to stay the night). There are chemical
toilets (but no running water) and a small restaurant (which I
didn't visit) and a couple of picnic tables. Take a deserved
break. It took me a little over 3 1/2 hours (not rushing) to go
from Logans Pass to the Chalet (first visit, not including
sidetrip to Grinnell Glacier. For the hike out, you have the
option of going over Swiftcurrent Pass to the Many Glacier area
or down The Loop to the Going-to-the-Sun road.
Swiftcurrent Pass:
From the Chalet, it is .9 miles and 500 feet up to Swiftcurrent
Pass. At the top there is a rock-created chair. Then the
trail goes down, down, and down - about 2000 feet. After
rounding one of the bends, you are presented with the head of
the Swiftcurrent valley - a granite area with a number of
glaciers above and extremely tall waterfalls. This will be
your view as you switchback the rest of the way down. You can
also see the lakes down below and all the way down to the Many
Glacier area. Once you reach the bottom, the trail is mild the
rest of the way with just a couple of small climbs and a gradual
descent. I took a nice long rest at the first lake (Bullhead
Lake). There is no trail access to the middle lakes. At near
the top of the last lake is the Red Rock Falls (not impressive)
and you have about 1 1/2 miles left. Including my breaks and
not at a fast pace, it took me 8 hours to complete this hike
[didn't do Grinnell Glacier Overlook sidetrip]. If you don't
do the loop I did, unless you have extra time, I'd skip the
hike to or towards Swiftcurrent Pass - Grinnell Glacier (the
lower hike from the Many Glacier Area) and Iceberg Lake are
worthier of your time.
The Loop:
From the Chalet, it is 3.5 miles and 2200 feet down to the
Going-to-the-Sun Road (where you can catch the free park shuttle
back to Logan Pass or one of the other shuttle stops). The
trail loops down below the chalet (there is one good view back
of the chalet) and it is not a steep down. It is a wider trail
as horses use it to supply the chalet. Less than a mile from
the chalet, the trail enters a burn area from 2003 and stays in
it the rest of the way. At the junction, take a left (as the
sign says) and the trail heads at a slight grade up - but you
are not too far from the road. The is a bridge right before
reaching the road and you can take a short down creek-side
for a nice, well-deserved feet-soaking spot. There are
chemical toilets next to where you pick up the shuttle.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 15.1 miles, +700 feet, -2300 feet (Swiftcurrent Loop)
Total: 11.1 miles, +200 feet, -2200 feet (The Loop)
7.6 miles, +200 feet from Logan's Pass to Granite Park Chalet
.9 miles, +500 feet from Granite Park Chalet to Swiftcurrent Pass
6.6 miles, -2300 feet from Swiftcurrent Pass to the Swiftcurrent
Motel parking lot
3.5 miles, -2200 feet from the Chalet to The Loop parking area
Area:
Mountains, mountains, mountains, waterfalls, lower mountain lakes
(not in bowls)
Picture
When I did the hike:
Sunday, August 8, 2004; Wednesday, July 27, 2005 (to switchback
and back); Friday, August 24, 2007 (Grinnell Glacier overlook and
The Loop)
Recommendation:
Wonderful. If you don't have time for the full hike, at least
do part of the Highline Trail. If you do go to the chalet area,
you absolutely must make the sidetrip (tough up) for the
Grinnell Glacier Overlook for one of the best views in the park.
The hike down for The Loop (don't hike up it) is blah, but it
is shorter and no shuttle fee for going by the chalet than
Swiftcurrent Pass (a really pretty hike, but a really long day
hike).
Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake (Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and either turn in the Many Glacier Motel
parking area (do this if you are going to use the water shuttle) or
turn left into the Grinnell Glacier parking lot shortly after the
Many Glacier Motel turn off (this is probably the better spot to
park). There is an outhouse about a mile before the glacier and
one near Grinnell Lake. [I didn't do the water shuttle, so I don't
know how much it costs or what the time schedules are.]
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
If you park in the Many Glacier Motel parking lot (and don't use
the water shuttle), head down towards the hotel and then take the
Swiftcurrent trail that starts to the left (as you face the lake)
of the hotel near the shore. Stay on the level trail as it goes
around the lake and then follow the signs for Grinnell Glacier.
If you park at the Grinnell Glacier parking lot, head up the
trail along the west side of Swiftcurrent Lake. The trails meet
up just after the Swiftcurrent Lake boat launch. A little past
the Lake Josephine boat launch there is a junction for Grinnell
Lake and Grinnell Glacier. Head up. It is a gradual grade up
for the next several miles (then a hard up to end). After
passing the junction for Jenny Launch, you start to get views
down on Grinnell Lake and ahead for the large waterfall that
feeds the lake and of the glacier itself. The trail ends at the
base of the waterfall you see that is above the waterfall that
feeds Grinnell Lake. The views are wonderful. Pause and enjoy
the cool (as in cool off - there is little shade along this hike)
small waterfalls that go next to and over the trail - you still
have a ways to go. The dirt and slate one-person width trail
continues along the mountainside and over a small mound to a
group of trees in front of a small snow field. This is not the
end, but is a good resting spot as there are a number of benches
and logs and 2 outhouses. Catch your breath because there is a
big climb ahead. Huff and puff your way up and then enjoy the
magnificent area. There is a lake with icebergs in front of the
glacier. The glacier is shrinking (I noticed the difference in
just a year's time) and they expect it to be gone by 2026. Spend
some time in the lake area. Hike to the left to the creek at
the far end of the lake and rest and enjoy the views there.
Also take the steep down to lake side near where the trail
reaches the lake [most people stop at the view point and miss
the full beauty of the area]. [Do _not_ walk on the glacier
itself. It is dangerous and people have been killed falling
into unseen crevices.] It took me about 2 1/2 hours to hike
from the hotel to the glacier. Back at the Jenny Launch
junction, head down for 1/4 mile to the junction for Grinnell
Lake and then head right for a level mile through the forest to
the lake and you can see the view from below of where you were.
I hiked back along the east side of Lake Josephine, but would
suggest sticking to the west side of the lake [as I did for my
later visits]. The west side is in the open with little shade
and the east side is in the forest with few views of the
mountain scenery. The east side is also a horse trail, so you
have other odors. If you use the water shuttle, it goes across
Swiftcurrent Lake and then there is a short walk to Lake
Josephine where you catch another shuttle that goes across Lake
Josephine to Jenny Launch. From Jenny Launch, head right and a
short bit later is a junction for Grinnell Lake and Grinnell
Glacier. It's a mile to the lake. For the glacier, head right
and after crossing the bridge, the trail heads a steep up for
1/4 mile to intersect with the Grinnell Glacier trail and it is
about 2.2 miles from the junction to the glacier.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: about 12 miles, +1600 (using water shuttle, about 7 miles
for Grinnell Glacier and Grinnell Lake)
5.5 miles, +1600 feet to Grinnell Glacier
2.2 miles, -1400 feet from Grinnell Glacier to Jenny Launch junction
.25 miles, -100 feet from junction to Grinnell Lake junction
1 mile, level from junction to Grinnell Lake
about 3 miles, fairly level from lake back to parking lot
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes, waterfalls, glaciers
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Thursday, August 5, 2004; Tuesday, July 26, 2005; Sunday,
September 10, 2006; Wednesday, August 22, 2007
Recommendation:
A must. Grinnell Glacier was my second favorite spot in Glacier.
If you don't have the time, you can skip Grinnell Lake (but it is
a pretty spot).
Cracker Lake (Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and turn in the Many Glacier Motel
parking area. The trailhead is at the far end of the lot, just
before the underpass. There is an outhouse near the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Good news, bad news: the destination is a beautiful shale
colored lake but the trail is a combo-trail - horses also use
the trail. So it is a dusty, smelly hike. The trail starts
with a walk around the head of Sherburne Lake. Then comes the
climb with a few switchbacks. The trail levels off some as it
goes along the creek, with some milder ups. Enjoy your first
view of the long, oblong lake. You do need to hike to the far
end of the lake. At that end, there is a little beach to rest
at and some old mining equipment. In the early 1900s, there
was a copper mine in the area. You can go up to the small
mine by heading back up from the lake shore to the dirt mound
you see and then it is a very steep scramble up (as in
sit-and-shuffle down) the talus slope to the mine entrance.
It took me 2:40 to reach the lake.
Trail Length + Elevation:
6.1 miles, 1400 feet (one-way)
Area:
Mountains, mountain lakes
When I did the hike:
Thursday, July 28, 2005
Recommendation:
The lake is worth a visit, but it might actually be a better
trip as a horseback ride (make sure it is the outing to the
lake - there is shorter ride along the trail - they stay for
about 2 hours at the lake).
Iceberg Lake, Ptarmigan Lake, and Ptarmigan Tunnel
(Many Glacier)
Directions:
To the Many Glacier area and take the road to the end. In the
parking lot, turn right just after the Swiftcurrent Motel into
the cabins area and drive, bearing left at junctions, to the
trailhead (not much space for cars, so may have to walk from the
main parking area). Bathrooms and store at the hotel. Outhouse
near Ptarmigan Falls (no others along this hike).
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The one-person width dirt trail starts with a climb and then
is a more moderate trail with a slight grade up. The first
2.5 miles to Ptarmigan Falls is pretty uneventful - some nice
valley views, but not much more. And the falls themselves
are not impressive (and there is no really good view of them).
If you need a rest, there is a nice rock outcrop at the top
of the falls (I took a break there on the way back). A short
ways after the falls is the junction for Iceberg Lake and
Ptarmigan Lake [I did a Y-shaped hike to hit both in one hike,
if almost 15 miles is too long for you to do in one hike, you
split them up into separate hikes (or skip Ptarmigan)].
Continue heading straight from the junction towards Iceberg
Lake - the grade up remains mild and there is no big climb
to the lake besides the start of the trail. The lake is in
the bowl at the end of the valley. After a little over 2
miles, you reach the pretty lake with chunks of ice in it
(small icebergs). The nice sized lake is in a large granite
bowl - the sides are massive mountains. Back at the
Iceberg-Ptarmigan junction, take a right (heading from
Iceberg Lake) and start your climb. A lot of the 1000 feet
gained to the lake is gained early in the 1.6 mile hike.
The grade does eventually become more reasonable and then
it is more up again (but not as steep) as you get closer to
the lake. Ptarmigan Lake is a small mountain lake and not
all that impressive (nice, but not stunning) [it is not in
a granite bowl]. Take a break at the lake and look where
you are heading. You can see the trail with 2 switchbacks
heading up the orange talus slope at the far side of the
lake. When you are ready to tackle the slope, head up. It
is a little under a mile and up 600 feet from the lake to
the tunnel - the hike isn't as hard as it looks. The about
100 foot long tunnel is man-made and wide and you don't need
a flash light. The view from the other side is well worth
it. You have a nice view down the other valley and down on
Elizabeth Lake. To the left is a massive red slope of the
mountainside (where a trail continues down to the lake).
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 14.8 miles, +2800 feet
2.5 miles, +700 feet to Ptarmigan Falls
2.2 miles, +500 feet from falls to Iceberg Lake
1.8 miles, +1000 feet from falls to Ptarmigan Lake
.9 miles, +600 feet from Ptarmigan Lake to Ptarmigan Tunnel
Area:
Mountains, waterfall, mountain lakes
Pictures
When I did the hike:
Friday, August 6, 2004; Friday, July 29, 2005 (to Iceberg
only); Monday, September 11, 2007 (Iceberg only); Thursday,
August 23, 2007
Recommendation:
Highly recommended, do at least Iceberg Lake. [If you aren't
going to go to the tunnel, skip Ptarmigan Lake (and if you
get to Ptarmigan Lake and are tired and thinking about
skipping the tunnel, don't - take a long break and then head
up).]
Cobalt Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles to the parking area at the end of the road.
There is bathrooms near the park store and an outhouse in the
campground near the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
The packed dirt trail starts to the left of the dock and goes
around the south shore of Two Medicine Lake (with no views of
the lake, unless you take the side trip to Paradise Point).
After about 1.5 miles of fairly level hiking is the branch
for Rockwell Falls and Cobalt Lake. After a little less than
a mile is Rockwell Falls. Take a break at the base of the
falls and enjoy the cool breeze [it was a warm day when I
went]. Right after the falls starts the up of the hike. And
it's up almost the rest of the way to Cobalt Lake. You are
not almost to the lake until you cross the creek (and then
you still have a bit of an up remaining. The pretty lake is
in a half bowl to the left.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5.7 miles, 1400 feet (one-way)
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
When I did the hike:
Thursday, July 21, 2005
Recommendation:
It's a pretty lake worth visiting and the falls provide a
nice break in the middle of the hike - both coming and going.
Note: it was very buggy during this trip.
Old Man Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles, turn right into the campground area and drive
through the campground to the trailhead (you'll see a bridge
across the water to the left and a bathroom (flush toilets and
water) to the right). There is an outhouse near the lake.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
This was my bad weather day. I did get hailed (pea sized)
on the previous day, but had hours of just clouds, some
sunny, and only about 20 minutes of rain. This day it
rained most of the hike. Add to that it was windy and
cool. My rain gear kept me mostly dry, but it wasn't a fun
hike. My original plan of hiking to Old Man Lake, up
Pitamakan Pass, over to Dawson Pass, down to No Name Lake,
and along Two Medicine Lake to complete the long 17 mile
loop got trashed due to the weather - it is on my "next
visit" list. The one-person width trail starts with a climb
and then has a descent as it rounds the mountain (heading
east from the parking lot). After crossing the small bridge
over the creek, the trail heads up the other valley. Even
though it gains 1500 feet over the 5.7 miles to the lake, it
is a mild hike with no really big climbs [now if you go to
the pass...]. About a mile before the lake, the trail goes
through an older (guess at least 5 years) burn area and
you can see some fire scars on the trees. The lake itself
is very pretty, even with the lousy weather.
Trail Length + Elevation:
5.5 miles, +1500 feet (one-way)
[16.9 miles, +2450 feet if you do the loop combining Pitamakan
Pass and Dawson Pass]
Area:
mountains, mountain lake
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 7, 2004
Recommendation:
I liked the lake, despite the weather, and want to go back
and do the full loop.
Upper Two Medicine Lake and No Name Lake (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles to harbor parking lot. Flush toilets and water at
the parking lot, outhouse near water shuttle drop off at far side
of Two Medicine Lake. The water shuttles across Two Medicine
Lake costs $10 (or $5 for one-way) and are at 9 am (hikers
shuttle), 10:30 am, 1 pm, 3 pm, and 5 pm with the return leg
about 15 minutes after each start time.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
Since the weather ruined my planned long loop in Two Medicine,
I decided to go back to the area and hit 2 of the lakes that
were on the back end of the loop, and cheat by using the water
shuttle (saving myself about 7 miles of hiking). [Of course,]
The weather was absolutely beautiful this day. It is a wider
trail (about 2-person width) and 1 mile fairly level to the
Twin Falls. The 2 falls come down separate sides of a rock
mound. From the falls, the trail narrows a little and
continues for 1 1/4 miles with only a slight up (no climb) to
Upper Two Medicine Lake. People looked at my pictures from
this lake and went, "Wow!", but my reaction was "That's it?"
Of all the lakes I visited in Glacier, I found Upper Two
Medicine Lake the least impressive. [And I was glad I didn't
hike to this lake as part of the long loop as I would have
been annoyed to spend the energy for 2 extra miles to this
lake.] I'm not sure why I found this lake so lacking as the
pictures make it look very pretty. Maybe it was because I had
planned on doing some feet soaking and couldn't find a place
to do so as the entire end of the lake was full of downed
logs. I stayed about 5 minutes before departing. Heading
back, a little after the falls is a trail junction for heading
to No Name Lake (and around the north shore of (middle) Two
Medicine Lake). After about .3 miles, the trail for No Name
Lake (and Dawson Pass) branches to the left and heads about
1.5 miles and up, up, up 800 feet to No Name Lake. The climb
is over a mile before calming some and there is a little bit
of level/small up as you near the lake. Now this lake I
really liked. It is a pretty, peaceful, small sized lake
with a shear granite wall on the far side. Because I wanted
to catch the 1:15 shuttle, I only stayed about 15-20 minutes
at the lake. I hiked a good pace (going and coming) to
complete this hike in about 3 2/3 hours (including the lake
stops).
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 8 miles, +1150 feet (add 7 miles if you don't use the
water shuttle)
.9 miles, fairly level from boat shuttle to Twin Falls
1.3 miles, +350 feet from falls to Upper Two Medicine Lake
1.8 miles, +800 feet from falls to No Name Lake
About 3.5 miles, fairly level each way if you hike around Two
Medicine Lake (either shore)
Area:
mountains, mountain lakes
Upper Two Medicine Lake Picture
Noname Lake Picture
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, August 10, 2004; Wednesday, September 13, 2007 (to
Upper Two Medicine Lake - still didn't like it)
Recommendation:
I'd skip Upper Two Medicine Lake, but I really liked No Name
Lake.
Pitamakan Pass and Dawson Pass Loop (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 9 miles, turn right into the campground area and drive
through the campground to the trailhead (you'll see a bridge
across the water to the left and a bathroom (flush toilets and
water) to the right). There is outhouses near the lakes.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
This was one of two hikes that prompted my returned to Glacier.
I started early and headed towards Old Man Lake. The trail
starts with an up along the side of Rising Wolf Mountain for a
mile and then a down for a mile to the creek crossing. The
trail then heads a mild up the valley for a little over 3
miles. You gain a lot of elevation during this time, but it
is spread out with no climbs. There is a trail branch to
Old Man Lake - the lake was temporarily closed while I was
there due to bears (I actually saw the "bear" dogs patrolling
the area as I headed up). From the branch, the trail starts
its climb up, up, and up to Pitamakan Pass, with a few
switchbacks. There are wonderful views down on Old Man Lake as
you head up. At the first trail junction (which is actually
the pass, even though you still have more climbing to do), you
can look down into the next valley at Pitkamakan Lake.
Continue up, passed the Cut Bank Pass branch and you reach the
continental divide with a nice ledge to rest on and enjoy the
views of mountains deeper in the park. Steal your nerves as
the trail then turns the corner and narrows and you have
mountain to the left and steep drop off to the right. Take
your time and watch your step. After about a mile, the trail
finishes going around Mt. Morgan and goes along an open ridge
where you again have wonderful views down on Old Man Lake
(while you continue to have nice long views deeper into the
park the other direction). The trail then goes back to the
ledge like hike (but not quite as narrow as around Mt. Morgan)
around Flinsch Peak and after a little over a mile reaches
Dawson Pass [note that from the continental divide to Dawson
Pass that the trail mostly angles a slight down, which is why
I'd recommend doing the loop in this direction]. Take are
rest on the open ridge (no views down on No Name Lake, though)
and enjoy the views. The trail then drops a steep 1600 feet
over the next 1.5 miles to No Name Lake. Take a side trip to
the lake and enjoy the pretty, small sized lake. Another 1.5
miles and 800 feet down takes you to the junction for Two
Medicine Lake. You can either cheat by hooking a right for
half a mile and then a left to take the water shuttle across
the lake (you'll have to know the departure times - and you'll
then have to walk the road back to the trailhead parking lot)
or hook a left and hike for 3 fairly level miles along the Two
Medicine Lake north shore (some views of the lake along the
way, but not a ton) back to the trailhead. I wasn't rushing
and took several long breaks along the way and it took me 10
hours to complete this hike.
Trail Length + Elevation:
Total: 16.9 miles, +2500 feet
5.5 miles, +1400 feet to Old Man Lake
1.4 miles, +1000 feet from Old Man Lake to Pitamakan Pass
over 2.5 miles from Pitamakan Pass to Dawson Pass
1.7 miles, -1650 feet from Dawson Pass to No Name Lake
2 miles, -800 feet from No Name Lake to the trail junction
About 3 miles, fairly level along Two Medicine Lake
Area:
mountains, mountain lakes
When I did the hike:
Tuesday, August 10, 2004
Recommendation:
A long, tough hike, but the views between the passes are
wonderful and I like both Old Man and No Name lakes.
Running Eagle Falls (Two Medicine)
Directions:
Hwy 89 (from the north) or Hwy 2 (from the south) to Hwy 49 to
the Two Medicine Junction and take the road into the park for
about 7 miles to the Running Eagle Falls parking lot. Chemical
toilets at the parking lot, no water.
$20 per week (for a car load) or National Parks Pass
Trails:
It is just a short little paved (wheelchair accessible) loop
the goes to a really neat waterfall. It is not tall, but it
is wide and it comes out of the mountainside, with granite
above and below the falls. Supposedly during a really wet
time (like early snowmelt season), there will be a waterfall
coming over the top of the (small) mountainside as well as
through the hole.
Trail Length + Elevation:
.6 miles, level paved loop
Area:
Woods to a falls that comes out of the mountain side.
Picture
When I did the hike:
Saturday, August 7, 2004; Tuesday, August 10, 2004; July 21-23,
2005 [visited each day]; September 13-14, 2006; Monday, August 27,
2007
Recommendation:
If you are any where near Two Medicine, you have to stop here.