If Chope's is known for anything it is the Chile Relleno that somehow seems different from those served anywhere else. Of course the freshness comes from its local source in the Mesilla Valley. While the Hatch chiles, grown north of Las Cruces, have become famous worldwide, there is actually quite a large variety of chiles grown in both the Hatch and Mesilla Valleys that include the milder Anaheims that are largely exported and the more spicy varieties that are popular locally.

Chope's serves a somewhat flat shaped chile that is quite spicy compared to many of the long skinny ones that are more common throughout the country. While being more spicy does not necessarily make a chile better quality, I do think this is an important criterion for a New Mexico style restaurant. It is also important for the chile to be roasted and prepared properly, as are the ones served at Chope's. I have always been impressed that Chope's does not put a sauce on top. The relleno really does not need to have any type of sauce, since the chile, the cheese inside, and the perfectly cooked batter stand by themselves and provide all the flavor needed for an excellent chile relleno.

Chope's green enchiladas made with fresh green chiles

The Green Enchiladas are some of the best found anywhere, but may be a little hot for some people. While many restaurants use a puréed green chile to pour on top of the tortillas, Chope's uses large chunks of fresh chiles that demonstrate the texture and flavor of the green chiles that are used. A white cheese is used that is perfectly melted (and it looks as if some yellow cheese is also mixed in). Chiles come locally from the Mesilla Valley, and are at their freshest around harvest season from early August through September.

Since I first tried red enchiladas in the days of my youth when I was able to eat them at La Posta, the Pink Adobe in Santa Fe, and other New Mexico restaurants, they have been my preference over the green enchiladas whenever I eat New Mexican cuisine. Chope's has convinced me, though, that green chile can be as good or better than the red chile when it is prepared correctly (as it is at Chope's). Many other places seem to either use too many additives, purée the chile too much, or use chiles of lesser quality that do not yield the same results as at Chope's. I have already come to the conclusion that Chope's green chile is more flavorful than the red, but this is especially true when they are fresh in August and September. There may be others like me who generally prefer red chile, but I would say to give Chope's green enchiladas a try.

Red enchiladas served flat with an egg on top, and chile relleno on the side

I have to report, though, that my experiences with Red Enchiladas at Chope's have not been consistent. I normally try to offset the chile effects by ordering an egg on top, but I have recently seen the red chile get milder to the point that no mitigating measures are really necessary. The flavor is good, but I think something has happened so that it no longer matches the quality of the green chile. It is the nature of locally produced chile grown on different people's farms to vary in flavor, but I am now seeing Chope's red chile become closer to the style served in some of the area's popular "tourist" restaurants. If ordered, I still recommend it with an egg on top, since I think this adds just the right flavor.

For some reason the New Mexican restaurants in the southern part of the state prefer Refried Beans, such as the ones served at Chope's, to the whole beans that are normally found in the north. I do not usually pay much attention to beans that are not northern style, but the ones at Chope's are cooked so perfectly that I think they are almost as good as the whole beans.

The Chips are so nondescript I can barely remember them well enough well enough to write a review when I get home. I have always liked them, though.

The Salsa is usually memorable for being so spicy it almost numbs the taste buds before you even get a chance to try any of the delicious main dishes. I think the freshness, though, is also memorable, and makes it a very good example of New Mexico salsa.

Sopaipillas are light and fluffy, and I think are almost as good as the ones I remember from La Posta. While they tend to be a bit on the greasy side, it is highly recommended to order one or more to go along with the meal, providing a soothing effect to the mouth that counteracts the spicy chile. Much of the food at Chope's is hot enough that I probably would not attempt to eat it without the relief of a sopaipilla and honey interspersed between bites of the hot chile (although an egg on top of the enchiladas does provide some soothing effects).

Chope's Bar, located next door to Chope's Cafe, serves the same food as the restaurant

What is now Chope's Bar was the original restaurant, and is located next door to Chope's Cafe. The bar serves the same food as the restaurant, and this can be a great help during the times that the restaurant is full and you have to get on a waiting list for a table. In fact, I think one of the major drawbacks of this place is having to drive for miles deep into the heart of the Mesilla Valley farm country and not knowing if you will face a long wait once you arrive (Chope's does not take reservations, but I'm sure they will fill you in on the estimated wait time if you call ahead of time). My photo of Chope's Bar makes it look as if it is a biker bar, but it is actually popular with a large part of the local population and not just one segment of it.

The restaurant itself is in an old house, and has what I would describe as a somewhat crowded dining arrangement. The main dining room is adjacent to the kitchen and is small, noisy, and busy, but also tends to be very friendly where it is easy to talk to the staff and other patrons. The larger dining room is quieter and provides slightly more space between tables, but they are still rather crowded.

The restaurant is open only until 1:30 p.m. for lunch, but the 8:30 p.m. closing time at dinner should give most diners enough time to reach La Mesa and wait for a table if necessary.

I sometimes have to look hard to find drawbacks to eating at Chope's, but I do believe the enchiladas are too heavily saturated in corn oil. I have come to appreciate the canola oil used at Las Trancas, but overall I still do not think they can cook enchiladas that are quite as good as at Chope's (at least when it comes to green enchiladas).

Of course the main drawback to Chope's would be if you do not want to eat food that is this spicy for whatever reason, and I can understand that this would be the case with many people. I think just about every visit to Chope's should include a chile relleno, in which I have yet to find a flaw. These are spicy as well, but I think within the range of most people's experience. If you try the relleno, and it does not scare you away, you may want to try the green enchiladas. Red enchiladas are sometimes spicy, but on average I would say they are milder than the green.

Some combination dinners are available, but I usually find it better to order individual items, and the price does not come out much higher. Some of the best bargains are available on the lunch specials, but choices are limited.

Some of my friends think some of the restaurants in Las Cruces serve better red enchiladas, with Nellie's usually at the top of the list. I sometimes think Chope's red chile is one of the best, but it probably depends when you go. Even though I have had uneven experiences with the red chile, everything else seems to be as good as ever, and Chope's still offers one of the best New Mexican food experiences I have found.

Coming from El Paso, La Mesa can be reached from IH-10 by taking the Vado exit (NM 227) and going west to Vado. You then turn left on NM 478 and go south less than a quarter mile, where NM 227 again goes to the west (there are few if any signs that give directions). From Vado you should follow NM 227, and keep going straight after it turns into NM 28. Once you are on Hwy 28 La Mesa is the next town.

From Las Cruces or Mesilla it is easy to reach Chope's--just take NM 28 south.