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Lakeside Fish Grill

9201 E. Lake Hefner Parkway
Oklahoma City, OK
(405) 748-6113

Located on the east shore of Lake Hefner, Lakeside Fish Grill makes the most of Oklahoma's frequently spectacular sunsets visible across the lake through the restaurant's giant plate glass windows. Unlike many such "view" restaurants that can be found throughout the country, though, the food at Lakeside actually seems to live up to the ambiance.

I do not consider Lakeside to be a "high class" fish restaurant as would be found on the country's coasts, rather it is a Southern (primarily Cajun) style restaurant that specializes in shrimp, catfish, and a few types of ocean fish such as tilapia (the waitress assured me that only the salmon was farm raised, and all other fish were caught in the wild). This is supposed to be the place to get catfish, and the shrimp is quite popular also.

The restaurant used to be called Pearl's Lakeside Seafood Grill, but appears now to be separately owned. I have not noticed any changes in the menu since the "Pearl's" name disappeared, and the kitchen appears to be doing things the same as at the other Pearl's restaurants.

Lakeside Grill is located off of Lake Hefner Parkway (State Highway 74) at the Britton Road exit. There is a cluster of restaurants along the lake shore, and all are known for being "noisy" (this is a code word signifying that they probably serve almost as much alcohol as food). Lakeside Grill has a bar, but I have not found it to contribute substantially to the noise level of the restaurant.

After several visits I finally made it when the weather was warm enough to check out the outdoor patio. As in other Oklahoma City restaurants, though, the patio has become the de facto smoking area for the restaurant since state law has all but eliminated indoor smoking.

The restaurant itself has several levels so that most patrons can have a view of the lake. I have found it to be less than ideal, though, since the tables at the bottom level (next to the window) get too much air conditioning and the tables farther up do not have as good a view. Staff is more than willing to accommodate, though, if customers wish to move to a different section.

House salad

House salad with Cajun style vinagrette dressing

The dinner seafood entrées all come with a House Salad, and I think this is one of the best parts of the meal. The lettuce is fresh, and the dressings are made from scratch. I thought the Cajun style vinagrette dressing was flavorful and fresh.

Several soups and appetizers are available as well. I tried the Seafood Gumbo that had a dark color, and was filled with so much rice, seafood, and other ingredients it was easier to eat with a fork than a spoon. This gumbo was very different from the versions I had eaten in Austin containing a clear broth. The one here was good, but not something I would rate as one of the best dishes.

Pecan crusted trout

Pecan crusted trout with squash rockefeller

At the original Pearl's I had Pecan Crusted Trout that was split open and filleted. The skin was left on the bottom to keep it moist, and the top was deep fried. The cooking method was called "light deep frying" because it was only fried for a short time, leaving the crust crispy but the fish moist as if it were baked. This dish was quite a unique and delicious experience. I do not want to leave the impression that the fish was top quality, because it did have to be flown in. The cooking style used at Pearl's, however, might well compete with some of the best fish houses in the country. I certainly thought the pecan crust was first rate, and the fish itself was fresh enough to be free of the telltale "fishy" taste found at so many restaurants.

After the change to Lakeside Grill I found the trout to be more greasy than before with the fish not being as flavorful. It still did not taste "fishy," though, so it was still a good dish. This sample size is too small, though, to tell whether the food has changed appreciably since it was under Pearl's management.

Fried shrimp

Dinner portion of fried shrimp

Fried Shrimp has been the standout dinner I have tried, with a fresh shrimp and a good tasting crust. My standard for judging shrimp is based on trips to Galveston, Texas, and for years Oklahoma had nothing that approached the fresh catches found along the Gulf. These days, though, the shrimp is getting a lot closer to tasting fresh, and Lakeside Grill has some of the best.

Fish and chips

Tilapia fish and chips

In the past I have driven all over Washington, Oregon, and northern California trying to find good fish and chips (as well as sampling several places in London), so this gives an idea how picky I am about this dish. Of course the Pilsner Tempura'd Fish and Chips at Lakeside Grill did not compare with ones I have had in other places, but they were surprisingly good. I thought the tilapia was a good choice and the crust was good. Lakeside serves a house made tartar sauce, but my required malt vinegar is also available. I have had fish and chips in areas of the country where they supposedly know how to make them that were a lot worse than the ones here, so I suppose this is a pretty good recommendation for ones in Oklahoma.

Of course, most restaurants in Oklahoma are pretty expert at making french fries, so the "chips" part of the dish was quite good.

Many of the side dishes, though, seem to be the weakest link in Lakeside's food lineup. The Hush Puppies were a bit greasy, and the Garlic Mashed Potatoes (New Orleans style) left such a strong aftertaste I could not help but think they had mistakenly been made with too much garlic. I liked the Squash Rockefeller, but it was not outstanding. The Texas Toast was pretty good.

Although the menu seems to indicate that much of the food is Cajun style, I would not make too much of this. Some of the Cajun style dishes are good, but probably more because of the undelying dish than the spicing. The food is not bad, but I would not really call it "Cajun."

The outstanding feature of Lakeside Grill is not so much that it has the best seafood in Oklahoma City, but that almost everyone seems to like it and to come away happy with the meal. Most things are fried, but the cooking methods are a little bit healthier than most places that serve fried food. It is a little bit more expensive than most fried seafood places, but I think it is worth it.

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RESTAURANT DETAILS

RATING: 21

Cuisine: Seafood
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer, Wine, Margaritas
Special Features: Lunch specials, Sunday brunch

Most Recent Visit
Sep. 22, 2008

Number of Visits: 3

Best Item
Fried Shrimp

Special Ratings
Fried Shrimp:
Pecan Crusted Trout:
Fish and Chips:
Gumbo:
Crab Cakes:
Hush Puppies:
Garlic Mashed Potatoes:
Squash Rockefeller:
Salad:



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