In Skagit Valley, on the western edge of Washington, is La Conner, known for its natural beauty and bustling art scene. To appreciate the art of the area, you have to see the Museum of Northwest Art, showcasing artists specifically from the Pacific Northwest. There are delightful riverside cafes near the museum, like the Wayfinder Cafe and the La Conner Calico Cupboard Café and Bakery, to top off a perfect afternoon.
The historical La Conner Pub in La Conner, Washington. Image credit Joe Mabel via Wikimedia Commons
La Conner also has some unusual attractions that you won’t find anywhere else, like the Swinomish Cedar Hats! This attraction is located within the Swinomish Reservation along the scenic Swinomish Channel and is modeled after traditional Coast Salish woven cedar hats. They are giant pavilions surrounded by native plants within the park that celebrate the customs of the native people of the Skagit River valley.
La Conner is known for its vibrant arts scene, historic waterfront, boutique shops, and excellent dining options145.
Notable attractions include the Pacific Northwest Quilt & Fiber Arts Museum, the Museum of Northwest Art, and the iconic Rainbow Bridge24.
The town hosts popular events like the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival each April, drawing visitors from around the world3.
The scenic waterfront along the Swinomish Channel offers opportunities for strolling, birdwatching, and enjoying local seafood54.
History of the Town
La Conner is Skagit County’s oldest community, founded in the early 1860s near the mouth of the Skagit River89. Originally called Swinomish, it was renamed in 1870 after Louisa A. Conner, wife of settler John Conner89. The town thrived as a farming, logging, and fishing hub, serving as a port for steamers and a center for agricultural innovation689. In the 1940s, it became a haven for artists, many of whom were leaders in the Northwest School of Art89.
Today, La Conner is recognized for its preserved historic buildings and as a destination for art lovers and tourists89.
Why Boaters Frequent La Conner
La Conner sits on the Swinomish Channel, a key waterway connecting Puget Sound with Padilla Bay and the San Juan Islands, making it a strategic stop for recreational and commercial boaters56.
The town offers moorage, marine services, and easy access to restaurants and shops right on the waterfront56.
Navigational Hazards
The Swinomish Channel is narrow and winding, with strong tidal currents and shallow areas, especially at low tide6.
Shoaling and shifting sandbars can be hazards; careful navigation and attention to updated charts are necessary6.
The channel is busy with fishing boats, tugs, and recreational craft, so boaters should be alert for traffic and restricted maneuvering space6.
Boaters from Seattle, Everett, Bellingham, and the San Juan Islands routinely pass through La Conner, using the channel as a protected inland waterway alternative to the often rougher waters outside Whidbey Island
Swinomish Tribe and Crabbing Enterprise
The Swinomish Indian Tribal Community has lived in the area for thousands of years and maintains a reservation adjacent to La Conner89.
The tribe operates the Swinomish Casino and Lodge, a major local enterprise3.
The Swinomish are active in fisheries, including crabbing, and are known for their sustainable management of marine resources, though the scale of their crabbing operations is significant regionally but not among the largest on the West Coast3.
The tribe is also notable for its cultural heritage and stewardship of the land and waterways surrounding La Conner89.
How Tidal Patterns Influence Navigation and Boating in Swinomish Channel
Tidal currents in the Swinomish Channel are strong and can exceed 2 knots, significantly affecting boat handling, especially for slower or full-displacement vessels15.
The direction and strength of the current depend on the difference in tide heights at the north and south ends of the channel—a larger difference creates a stronger current5.
Generally, the current flows north from about 2.5–4 hours before high tide to 2.5–4 hours after high tide, and south from about 2.5–4 hours before low tide to 2.5–4 hours after low tide, as measured at the Seattle tide station123.
Slack water, when current is minimal, typically occurs 2.5–4 hours after high or low tide, but this timing can vary with the size of the tide change and river runoff24.
Shelter Bay is situated on land that is part of the Swinomish Indian Reservation
Navigating outside slack water can mean contending with strong opposing currents or being pushed faster than intended, increasing risk of grounding or collision in the channel’s narrow, shallow stretches12.
Entrance to Shelter Bay
At low tides, the southern part of the channel is particularly shallow, so boaters should favor the east side to avoid shoals from Skagit River sediment24.
Accurate tide and current predictions are crucial for safe passage; digital tools and local tide stations provide the best guidance for timing transits5.
La Conner sits on the Swinomish Channel, a key waterway connecting Puget Sound with Padilla Bay and the San Juan Islands, making it a strategic stop for recreational and commercial boaters
In summary, careful planning around tidal patterns is essential for safe and efficient navigation in the Swinomish Channel due to strong, variable currents and shallow areas that can pose hazards at low tide125.
Main Navigational Hazards for Boats in Swinomish Channel Near La Conner
Shallow Areas and Shoaling: The channel is prone to shoaling, especially near La Conner and in the southern section, due to sediment from the Skagit River. Depths can drop unexpectedly, particularly at low tide, and some areas may be shallower than charted, risking groundings even for boats in the center of the marked channel215.
Narrow Channel: The Swinomish Channel is narrow (about 100 feet wide in most places), requiring careful attention to stay within the marked route. Cutting corners or leaving the channel can quickly lead to running aground, especially at high tide when the channel appears deceptively wide65.
Strong Currents: Tidal currents can be strong and unpredictable, making docking and maneuvering challenging, particularly if not timed near slack water15.
Navigation Marker Confusion: The red and green navigation marks switch sides at La Conner, which can confuse boaters unfamiliar with the area. Careful attention to markers is essential to avoid mistakes35.
Bridges: There are bridges south of La Conner, including a railroad bridge and fixed bridges with limited vertical clearance. Air draft and tide height must be considered to ensure safe passage4.
Traffic and Speed: The channel can be busy with commercial and recreational traffic. Excessive speed can create wakes that disturb moored boats and residents, and local etiquette expects slow transit through town7.
Key advice: Always stay centered in the marked channel, plan your transit around tides and currents, and proceed with caution, especially at low water and when approaching La Conner125.
Brewery
La Conner Brewing Company is the town’s most noteworthy brewery—famous for its craft beers, wood-fired pizzas, and family-friendly atmosphere135. We visit the brewery to keep track of snow geese.
While the brewery itself is not tied to snow geese, the broader La Conner area is renowned for birdwatching and birders are frequent patrons.
Snow geese are especially notable because tens of thousands of them migrate through the Skagit Valley each winter and spring, creating dramatic, swirling flocks that attract wildlife enthusiasts and photographers.
Their massive numbers and breathtaking aerial displays make them a highlight for regional tourism and a symbol of the area’s rich natural heritage. The brewery and town benefit from this unique attraction.
Snow geese are considered interesting and significant for several reasons:
Spectacular Migrations: They undertake long-distance migrations, traveling thousands of miles annually between Arctic breeding grounds and southern wintering areas, forming massive, swirling flocks that are a breathtaking sight45.
Keystone Species Role: Snow geese act as a keystone species in their ecosystems. Their grazing on grasses and sedges helps maintain habitat diversity, supports nutrient cycling, and provides food for predators like arctic foxes and wolves16.
Conservation Success Story: Once threatened by overhunting, snow geese have rebounded dramatically due to conservation efforts and now number in the millions, making them one of North America’s greatest wildlife recovery stories35.
Ecological Impact: Their feeding habits influence plant communities and help shape the landscape, but their current abundance can also cause ecological concerns, such as overgrazing in some Arctic breeding areas13.
Social Behavior and Longevity: They exhibit complex social structures and are known for their vocal communication and impressive longevity, with some individuals living over 30 years in the wild5.
These traits make snow geese a key part of their ecosystems and a fascinating subject for birdwatchers, scientists, and nature lovers.
NORWESTER, JOHN WAYNE’S FIRST YACHT!
The Norwester is a historic 76-foot classic motoryacht built in 1932 in Winthrop, Massachusetts, originally commissioned by Charles Gilbert, a Wall Street printer and deep-sea fisherman251. Designed by Frank Munro for stability and seaworthiness, it was intended to handle any weather and sea conditions2.
Key Features and History:
World War II Service: During WWII, the Norwester served as a US Navy patrol boat, designated YP 165, from 1941 to 1945267.
Hollywood Era: After the war, it was owned by Hollywood manager Boo Roos and frequently used by John Wayne, who eventually purchased it and enjoyed it with family and friends until the 1960s, when he acquired the larger yacht Wild Goose156.
Celebrity Guests: The yacht’s logbook includes entries from Hollywood Golden Age stars like Ray Milland and Bette Davis25.
Restoration and Museum: The Norwester was restored and operated as a floating museum in La Conner, Washington, featuring memorabilia, props, and items owned by John Wayne348.
The marina’s facilities, guest docks, and marine services support both recreational and commercial vessels, reinforcing La Conner’s role as a regional maritime center
Recent Fate: In April 2021, the Norwester ran aground and was partially sunk near Prevost Harbor in the San Juan Islands. Salvage and restoration efforts were underway, but its current status is unclear672.
Can the Norwester be seen in La Conner? The Norwester was anchored in La Conner as a museum and attraction as recently as 2016–2017, but after its 2021 accident in the San Juans, it is unclear if it has been returned to La Conner or remains accessible as a museum348. For current information, contacting the Norwester Museum Tour or La Conner businesses directly is recommended.
Hole in the Wall
The Hole in the Wall near La Conner is a narrow opening in a long rock jetty that runs from the mainland to Goat Island at the southern entrance of the Swinomish Channel. It serves as a key passage for small boats and kayaks to access the channel from Skagit Bay or the Skagit River delta123.
This cut is marked by a small orange pole and is located at approximately 47.3699, -122.5065. At high tide, it can be paddled or boated through; at low tide, it may be necessary to carry boats across. The current can be strong and challenging, so timing your passage with the tide is important for safety and ease13. The Hole in the Wall is well-known among local paddlers and sailors for its unique geography and as a shortcut for navigating into the Swinomish Channel23.
The small community with a marina near Hole in the Wall is called Shelter Bay. Shelter Bay features a 275-slip marina and is located just south of La Conner, adjacent to the Swinomish Channel8.
Shelter Bay is situated on land that is part of the Swinomish Indian Reservation. The homes and marina are privately managed, and residents lease the land from the Swinomish Tribe rather than owning it outright. While the community itself is not exclusively for tribal members—most residents are non-Indian—the land remains tribal property with a unique leasehold arrangement1.
La Conner’s blend of natural beauty, vibrant town life, and strategic location on a major navigational route makes it a favorite among boaters and a true hub for marine travel in the region